04-22-2022, 02:19 PM
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#16
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Member
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Yerington, Nevada
Posts: 44
Real Name: Ray
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Yerington, Nevada
Posts: 44
Real Name: Ray
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year: 2004 2nd owner
engine: V6
2wd/4wd: 4wd
mileage: 84,000 when bought, now 101,000
repairs: speedo quit at 84,500 repaired at Tanin $200, new Power Stop K138-36 brakes front and rear $336, new water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, replaced instrument cluster (fuel gauge quit working) with rebuilt from Tanin $309, replaced both CV axles (one had a torn boot)
Mods: B&M 70264 trans cooler. Changed all fluids to synthetic and flushed trans fluid. 2inch lift with 5100 Bilsteins and 2 inch Toytech Super Flex on rear. 2 inch extended brake lines on the rear, bleed all brakes with new fluid. New 245/75R17E Falken Wildpeaks. JBA uca's
__________________
2004 V6 SR5 4X4 / Bilstein 5100's OEM at 3rd setting / Toytech 2" Super Flex Rear / 245/75R/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W / B&M 70264 Super Cooler / JBA UCA's /Power Stop K138-36 Brakes
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04-22-2022, 09:25 PM
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#17
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
Age: 38
Posts: 408
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
Age: 38
Posts: 408
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Ok, I'll play
Year: 2005
Engine: 2UZ-FE V8
2WD/4WD: 4WD
Items replaced with approximate costs:
Parts and Labour for OEM repair/replace items, in CAD. I don't have alot of records prior to 2018. I'll add to the list later as things come to mind
- RAS sensors: $1000 (~2014)
- Koyo Radiator: $800 (2018)
- Timing belt, seals, etc: $1400 (2018)
- Rear hatch auto closer: $700 (2018)
- Front wheel bearing: $500 (2018)
- Power steer rack, hoses, intermediate shaft: ~$2400 (2018, lost the invoice from Toyota for most of the work, just off memory here)
- Alternator, Power steering pump: $1000 (2019)
- MAF (CEL P0172 and P0175) & rear endlinks: $500 (2019)
- rear drive shaft: $600 (2021)
- Thermostat, Water temp sensor, fuel pump & strainer, tank straps (chasing that CEL P0172 and P0175): $2800 (2021)
- Fuel pressure regulator (more chasing around the CEL P0172 and P0175): $400 (2021)
Mileage: Purchased at 124,000km (2012). Currently at 340,000km
Mods: - SS Brake lines
- ADDCO Sway bars
- IPT Performance valve body
- Billies front & rear
- RAS delete (yeah, after fixing it, still deleted it)
- aFe Intake
- Dough Thorley shorties, Magnaflow cats, BAMF resonator, custom stainless exhaust
- 18x9 Fuel Beast wheels (shout out to BlackWorks, who inspired me and I shamelessly copied)
- 5th gen front brake upgrade
probably other things I don't recall
Any additional comments:
I feel like I've had almost every common problem with this truck. I've been told my truck was probably built on the Friday of a long weekend.
I'm at a sunk cost fallacy now. Just the invoices I have from 2018 onwards is $14k. That doesn't include the suspension, wheels, and exhaust system.
Speaking of those three, they were done because my XREAS was shot, my tires were worn out, and I had holes in both original exhaust headers (the passenger being notably loud). Oh, and the truck reached this situation all at the same time. And so I had the option to buy a new truck and walk away from the '05 (as it was almost worthless in Vancouver, BC, being a rusty Alberta truck with all these expensive problems). So I chose to drop the money fixing it up rather than buy a new truck for $40-50k (or get a used vehicle that will cost $10k to fix up anyway). Better the devil I know, right?
__________________
2005 V8 Limited
Bilstein 6112/5160, ADDCO bars. 18x9 Beast with 285/60R18 BFGs
IPT valve body, DT shorty headers, Dirty Deeds BAMF exhaust
Last edited by Keros; 04-22-2022 at 09:38 PM.
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04-22-2022, 11:25 PM
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#18
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 377
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros
Ok, I'll play
Year: 2005
Engine: 2UZ-FE V8
2WD/4WD: 4WD
Items replaced with approximate costs:
Parts and Labour for OEM repair/replace items, in CAD. I don't have alot of records prior to 2018. I'll add to the list later as things come to mind
- RAS sensors: $1000 (~2014)
- Koyo Radiator: $800 (2018)
- Timing belt, seals, etc: $1400 (2018)
- Rear hatch auto closer: $700 (2018)
- Front wheel bearing: $500 (2018)
- Power steer rack, hoses, intermediate shaft: ~$2400 (2018, lost the invoice from Toyota for most of the work, just off memory here)
- Alternator, Power steering pump: $1000 (2019)
- MAF (CEL P0172 and P0175) & rear endlinks: $500 (2019)
- rear drive shaft: $600 (2021)
- Thermostat, Water temp sensor, fuel pump & strainer, tank straps (chasing that CEL P0172 and P0175): $2800 (2021)
- Fuel pressure regulator (more chasing around the CEL P0172 and P0175): $400 (2021)
Mileage: Purchased at 124,000km (2012). Currently at 340,000km
Mods: - SS Brake lines
- ADDCO Sway bars
- IPT Performance valve body
- Billies front & rear
- RAS delete (yeah, after fixing it, still deleted it)
- aFe Intake
- Dough Thorley shorties, Magnaflow cats, BAMF resonator, custom stainless exhaust
- 18x9 Fuel Beast wheels (shout out to BlackWorks, who inspired me and I shamelessly copied)
- 5th gen front brake upgrade
probably other things I don't recall
Any additional comments:
I feel like I've had almost every common problem with this truck. I've been told my truck was probably built on the Friday of a long weekend.
I'm at a sunk cost fallacy now. Just the invoices I have from 2018 onwards is $14k. That doesn't include the suspension, wheels, and exhaust system.
Speaking of those three, they were done because my XREAS was shot, my tires were worn out, and I had holes in both original exhaust headers (the passenger being notably loud). Oh, and the truck reached this situation all at the same time. And so I had the option to buy a new truck and walk away from the '05 (as it was almost worthless in Vancouver, BC, being a rusty Alberta truck with all these expensive problems). So I chose to drop the money fixing it up rather than buy a new truck for $40-50k (or get a used vehicle that will cost $10k to fix up anyway). Better the devil I know, right?
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Wow, this is quite the list. I hope when you get in the truck, you still enjoy it because at this point you already put a ring on it haha. Hopefully it will bring you better years to come!
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04-23-2022, 07:35 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Somewhere, yet nowhere
Posts: 1,739
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Somewhere, yet nowhere
Posts: 1,739
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Keros, Think of all the tools you could have purchased to do these repairs with all the money spent. Learn to wrench and impress your lady. Holy shiznit! Who spends $800 on a radiator on a daily driver? That is plain nutz.
__________________
2007 4Runner Sport 4WD 4.0L 228,000 miles
The real stats on gun murders in America compared to the world (link)
Good riddance to the Clinton Crime Family--> I Voted TRUMP…how’s it going for you now Trump is gone? Be careful what you ask for. You may just get it.
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04-23-2022, 10:14 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 4,646
Real Name: Skip
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 4,646
Real Name: Skip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros
Ok, I'll play
Year: 2005
Engine: 2UZ-FE V8
2WD/4WD: 4WD
Items replaced with approximate costs:
Parts and Labour for OEM repair/replace items, in CAD. I don't have alot of records prior to 2018. I'll add to the list later as things come to mind
- RAS sensors: $1000 (~2014)
- Koyo Radiator: $800 (2018)
- Timing belt, seals, etc: $1400 (2018)
- Rear hatch auto closer: $700 (2018)
- Front wheel bearing: $500 (2018)
- Power steer rack, hoses, intermediate shaft: ~$2400 (2018, lost the invoice from Toyota for most of the work, just off memory here)
- Alternator, Power steering pump: $1000 (2019)
- MAF (CEL P0172 and P0175) & rear endlinks: $500 (2019)
- rear drive shaft: $600 (2021)
- Thermostat, Water temp sensor, fuel pump & strainer, tank straps (chasing that CEL P0172 and P0175): $2800 (2021)
- Fuel pressure regulator (more chasing around the CEL P0172 and P0175): $400 (2021)
Mileage: Purchased at 124,000km (2012). Currently at 340,000km
Mods: - SS Brake lines
- ADDCO Sway bars
- IPT Performance valve body
- Billies front & rear
- RAS delete (yeah, after fixing it, still deleted it)
- aFe Intake
- Dough Thorley shorties, Magnaflow cats, BAMF resonator, custom stainless exhaust
- 18x9 Fuel Beast wheels (shout out to BlackWorks, who inspired me and I shamelessly copied)
- 5th gen front brake upgrade
probably other things I don't recall
Any additional comments:
I feel like I've had almost every common problem with this truck. I've been told my truck was probably built on the Friday of a long weekend.
I'm at a sunk cost fallacy now. Just the invoices I have from 2018 onwards is $14k. That doesn't include the suspension, wheels, and exhaust system.
Speaking of those three, they were done because my XREAS was shot, my tires were worn out, and I had holes in both original exhaust headers (the passenger being notably loud). Oh, and the truck reached this situation all at the same time. And so I had the option to buy a new truck and walk away from the '05 (as it was almost worthless in Vancouver, BC, being a rusty Alberta truck with all these expensive problems). So I chose to drop the money fixing it up rather than buy a new truck for $40-50k (or get a used vehicle that will cost $10k to fix up anyway). Better the devil I know, right?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TejasRunner01
Wow, this is quite the list. I hope when you get in the truck, you still enjoy it because at this point you already put a ring on it haha. Hopefully it will bring you better years to come!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcoffee
Keros, Think of all the tools you could have purchased to do these repairs with all the money spent. Learn to wrench and impress your lady. Holy shiznit! Who spends $800 on a radiator on a daily driver? That is plain nutz.
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Wow is right, that's $12,100 but to be fair that's Canadian $, in USD that's only $9,516....but still hurts just reading it, also that's only in the last 4 years, I don't even want to know what he paid in maintenance from 2012 to 2018, but that's stealership prices for you (full mark up on parts and their high labor) and not doing your own work, not doing your own work I can understand that not everyone knows how to do the work....but at those prices I would quickly learn how if I didn't know how to do the work!!
The cost would of been much, much lower if he had bought OEM parts online at the several dealerships that offer discounted prices and had the work done at an independent garage.
__________________
2004 Limited V8
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04-23-2022, 01:17 PM
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#21
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
Age: 38
Posts: 408
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Burnaby, BC
Age: 38
Posts: 408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
Wow is right, that's $12,100 but to be fair that's Canadian $, in USD that's only $9,516....but still hurts just reading it, also that's only in the last 4 years, I don't even want to know what he paid in maintenance from 2012 to 2018, but that's stealership prices for you (full mark up on parts and their high labor) and not doing your own work, not doing your own work I can understand that not everyone knows how to do the work....but at those prices I would quickly learn how if I didn't know how to do the work!!
The cost would of been much, much lower if he had bought OEM parts online at the several dealerships that offer discounted prices and had the work done at an independent garage.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcoffee
Keros, Think of all the tools you could have purchased to do these repairs with all the money spent. Learn to wrench and impress your lady. Holy shiznit! Who spends $800 on a radiator on a daily driver? That is plain nutz.
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I've rebuilt enough engines, swapped enough clutches, suspensions, brakes and the like; and fought many rusted bolts in that time. I've had my fill, thanks.
Regardless, in the lower mainland, it's absolutely ridiculously expensive to have a reliable place to wrench on something while at the same time that place isn't an absolute shit-hole to live in.
Thankfully, prior to 2017, it only needed oil changes. The biggest problem it had was a coil pack filled with water once, and I ran on 7-cylinders for a while until I was able to take it in. Changed the oil while it was in the shop, the coil packs are surprisingly cheap. That and the RAS sensors, but I really like the way the truck handled and I didn't want to screw anything up, so I fixed the problem.
When something comes apart, the radiator for example, everything around it gets replaced as well and anything that doesn't look nice on the way to it. So upper & lower rad hoses, clamps, everything OEM. I make sure to get my money's worth out of the labour. I didn't list every specific component because I didn't even put it in the spreadsheet, it was too much specifics.
The shop that did the vast majority of the work is a local, independent shop. We've severed our relationship now due to various issues. In any case, it's more cost effective for me to spend my time doing what I'm good at, and get paid for, and leave the auto-repair to the professionals.
__________________
2005 V8 Limited
Bilstein 6112/5160, ADDCO bars. 18x9 Beast with 285/60R18 BFGs
IPT valve body, DT shorty headers, Dirty Deeds BAMF exhaust
Last edited by Keros; 04-23-2022 at 01:27 PM.
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04-25-2022, 09:45 AM
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#22
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: MA
Posts: 325
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: MA
Posts: 325
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I've spent around $11,300 for the 15 years i've owned it. this includes the annual oil change and i did all the repair.
here's the video of all that repair and the cost.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p77X034V63w
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04-25-2022, 03:09 PM
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#23
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 377
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keros
I've rebuilt enough engines, swapped enough clutches, suspensions, brakes and the like; and fought many rusted bolts in that time. I've had my fill, thanks.
Regardless, in the lower mainland, it's absolutely ridiculously expensive to have a reliable place to wrench on something while at the same time that place isn't an absolute shit-hole to live in.
Thankfully, prior to 2017, it only needed oil changes. The biggest problem it had was a coil pack filled with water once, and I ran on 7-cylinders for a while until I was able to take it in. Changed the oil while it was in the shop, the coil packs are surprisingly cheap. That and the RAS sensors, but I really like the way the truck handled and I didn't want to screw anything up, so I fixed the problem.
When something comes apart, the radiator for example, everything around it gets replaced as well and anything that doesn't look nice on the way to it. So upper & lower rad hoses, clamps, everything OEM. I make sure to get my money's worth out of the labour. I didn't list every specific component because I didn't even put it in the spreadsheet, it was too much specifics.
The shop that did the vast majority of the work is a local, independent shop. We've severed our relationship now due to various issues. In any case, it's more cost effective for me to spend my time doing what I'm good at, and get paid for, and leave the auto-repair to the professionals.
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I totally get that sentiment. Luckily, you are still way ahead when you consider a new truck these days is 40k + . Your own time definitely has a value too!
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04-25-2022, 03:13 PM
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#24
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 377
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4r-4ever
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I loved seeing your detailed spreadsheet. Thanks for the post. If you keep it up, you’ll still have the 4Runner in 15 years!
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