05-22-2022, 07:23 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Norfolk, Va
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2019 TRD ORP. BFG KM3 285/70R17. Hefty front tube bumper, LFD dual swing-out rear bumper. Warn Zeon 10S. RSG sliders. Sherpa roofrack. Goose Gear interior. Radflo 2.5 suspension.
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05-22-2022, 08:08 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: US
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Tanker
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Lol I have these! I was wondering if there is a version for 3 vs just 2?
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05-22-2022, 10:16 PM
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#19
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You could do a wire splice and then heat shrink it so it looks like two into one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4b_gSciGIg
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2019 TRD ORP. BFG KM3 285/70R17. Hefty front tube bumper, LFD dual swing-out rear bumper. Warn Zeon 10S. RSG sliders. Sherpa roofrack. Goose Gear interior. Radflo 2.5 suspension.
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05-24-2022, 08:27 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 1,528
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Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Charlotte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatRed4thGen
Thanks for the advice! On using the Amazon power box, how do you still get things to work without tapping anything? Like for example, having the raptor lights only come on with the marker lights are on.
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The switch panel has a control box that you place inside the cab. I have an 8-gang switch panel, they have other options for less inputs. ( Amazon.com: Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Panel, Universal Circuit Control Relay System Box with Automatic Dimmable On-Off LED Switch Pod Touch Switch Box for Car Pickup Truck Jeep Boat UTV SUV, BA80 Blue 2 Year Warranty : Automotive)
you label each input you have an just use the control panel to turn them on and off. If you absolutely need auxiliary lights to trigger on and off when you put on, say your running lights, or something, then the solenoid trigger method is the route for you.
Military splicing, heat shrink, yada yada, all of that is fine and good, certainly significantly better than those crimp t-taps, but there are more proper ways of handling wiring.
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2003 Limited V8 4runner - 37's, Tacoma Front End swap, ARB locked front and rear , LC200 rack swap
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05-24-2022, 11:57 AM
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#21
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: US
Posts: 84
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: US
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
The switch panel has a control box that you place inside the cab. I have an 8-gang switch panel, they have other options for less inputs. ( Amazon.com: Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Panel, Universal Circuit Control Relay System Box with Automatic Dimmable On-Off LED Switch Pod Touch Switch Box for Car Pickup Truck Jeep Boat UTV SUV, BA80 Blue 2 Year Warranty : Automotive)
you label each input you have an just use the control panel to turn them on and off. If you absolutely need auxiliary lights to trigger on and off when you put on, say your running lights, or something, then the solenoid trigger method is the route for you.
Military splicing, heat shrink, yada yada, all of that is fine and good, certainly significantly better than those crimp t-taps, but there are more proper ways of handling wiring.
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It's on my wishlist. Blame my horrible mean family
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05-24-2022, 01:05 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Somewhere, yet nowhere
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The factory wiring is designed for factory equipment. I would only use a tap to trigger a dedicated relay to the new lights. Wire the power directly from battery. And make sure you coat the tap connection with dielectric grease or silicone otherwise the green line will corrode and fail over time. Better yet, solder the connection and coat it in grease/silicone
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05-25-2022, 12:30 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Nov 2021
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Join Date: Nov 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcoffee
The factory wiring is designed for factory equipment. I would only use a tap to trigger a dedicated relay to the new lights. Wire the power directly from battery. And make sure you coat the tap connection with dielectric grease or silicone otherwise the green line will corrode and fail over time. Better yet, solder the connection and coat it in grease/silicone
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Should I coat the T tap in silicone?
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