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Old 06-05-2022, 05:59 PM #16
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Originally Posted by Toystory2 View Post
Excellent, thanks for the additional advice! Picked up some flare nut wrenches today from HF, as Lowes was out. I want to make sure the cap is off the fluid reservoir before opening the connections right?


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I don't know what year you have but my '03 LTD. if you want to bleed the rears : start the engine, have someone press the brake pedal and hold it and crack the bleeder screw and it should pump out a nice steady stream. If not you have a problem. Make sure your brake reservoir is filled.
When doing this you will need someone to assist, when doing the rears do as rdruss says, first make sure you have loosened the brake line at the calipers and then retighten them so you're not fighting to get them loose when checking for flow, it will possibly give you a hard time to get them loose initially if they are corroded badly, the ABS pump will apply pressure to the rear without pumping the brakes, just turn the ignition switch on, no need to start the engine, then have your assistant apply the brakes and loosen the brake line you have already broken free, the brake pedal will most likely go down but have your assistant keep the pedal depressed, hopefully you will get fluid to come out, loosen it slowly and be careful to not have fluid spray into your face and eyes if you loosen it too fast, wear safety glasses to be sure.

No need to remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, but you do want to check the fluid level and refill it as it gets low so you don't get air into the system.

If you get fluid flowing out at the brake lines on both or one rear calipers, then the caliper/s are the issue and need to be replaced.
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Old 06-05-2022, 09:10 PM #17
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When doing this you will need someone to assist, when doing the rears do as rdruss says, first make sure you have loosened the brake line at the calipers and then retighten them so you're not fighting to get them loose when checking for flow, it will possibly give you a hard time to get them loose initially if they are corroded badly, the ABS pump will apply pressure to the rear without pumping the brakes, just turn the ignition switch on, no need to start the engine, then have your assistant apply the brakes and loosen the brake line you have already broken free, the brake pedal will most likely go down but have your assistant keep the pedal depressed, hopefully you will get fluid to come out, loosen it slowly and be careful to not have fluid spray into your face and eyes if you loosen it too fast, wear safety glasses to be sure.

No need to remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, but you do want to check the fluid level and refill it as it gets low so you don't get air into the system.

If you get fluid flowing out at the brake lines on both or one rear calipers, then the caliper/s are the issue and need to be replaced.



I need to loosen the connector labeled 1? I saw another nut on the caliper (2)
so wanted to make sure.


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Old 06-06-2022, 12:21 PM #18
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does the tech know what he is talking about? you can't bleed it without turning the the key on and pressing the brake.

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Thanks, thatís what the tech did. He attempted to bleed the breaks for a flush, and nothing came out on either side. Then he started checking the calipers and noticed lack of any movement. He assumed a blockage but now Iím wondering if they have seized. I have an 07 SR5.


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Old 06-06-2022, 12:26 PM #19
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that's not where you bleed it. the one on the right is where you stick a hose and bleed it.

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I need to loosen the connector labeled 1? I saw another nut on the caliper (2)
so wanted to make sure.


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Old 06-06-2022, 12:48 PM #20
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Originally Posted by Toystory2 View Post


I need to loosen the connector labeled 1? I saw another nut on the caliper (2)
so wanted to make sure.

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Loosen the one closest to the caliper #2, it will be easier to get lose, you can use a regular boxed end wrench or a socket on that one.

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that's not where you bleed it. the one on the right is where you stick a hose and bleed it.
He’s try to see if there fluid flow at the caliper, he’s not trying to bleed the brakes at this point.
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Old 06-06-2022, 01:20 PM #21
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does the tech know what he is talking about? you can't bleed it without turning the the key on and pressing the brake.

I wasnít present when they were checking it but Iím gonna assume they did turn the key on


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Old 06-07-2022, 06:22 PM #22
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Rear brakes not working

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Originally Posted by Toystory2 View Post


I need to loosen the connector labeled 1? I saw another nut on the caliper (2)
so wanted to make sure.


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@AuSeeker I pre-loosened the nut on the passenger side caliper and immediately got fluid out. The ignition wasnít even on.

Edit: now have loosened the nut on each caliper and fluid came out of each side


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Old 06-07-2022, 07:10 PM #23
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@AuSeeker I pre-loosened the nut on the passenger side caliper and immediately got fluid out. The ignition wasn’t even on.

Edit: now have loosened the nut on each caliper and fluid came out of each side


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You really need to know if you're getting hydraulic pressure to the rear to know if there's a blockage or not, a little bit of fluid will come out when you loosen a fitting just from fluid in the brake hose/line.

Now that you have them loosened, I think you need to check for pressure, turn the ignition on have someone depress the brake pedal, loosen the fitting again and see if you get fluid coming out under pressure, it should come out forcefully and not just a trickle, if the fluid come out with some force/pressure, I would next go to the bleeder valve as mentioned by 4r-4ever, I would think the tech would know he needed to turn the ignition on for the rears but he may not have, for the fronts you don't have to turn on the ignition so he may not have done so for the rears, the bleeder valve is directly on the opposite side from the #2 fitting, it is small and has a hole in the nippled end, if the tech actually loosen the bleeder valves they shouldn't be very tight, be very careful when you tighten the bleeder valve back down, they are very small and you can easily break them off if you go crazy when tightening them, if you get fluid coming out under pressure then there's no blockage but you could still have seized calipers, to check if they are you will need to jack up the wheel with the transmission in neutral and see if you can easily rotate the wheel, if not then the caliper is most likely seized, if you can rotate it then try turning the ignition on and rotate the wheel and have them depress the brake pedal to see if the brakes are working and stops the wheel from turning, if it does then that caliper is not seized, rinse and repeat for the other side, make sure you block one of wheels in front and in back of it so the vehicle doesn't roll of the jack while it's in neutral.

Also make sure your assistant keeps the brake pedal depressed so there's fluid coming out until you have retighten the fittings and or bleeder valves, or it will suck air into the system and they will need to be bled to purge the air out.

Again make sure you keep the fluid level in the master cylinder topped off so you don't get air in to the system.

Also be careful not to get any brake fluid on the paint, it can damage it, also avoid getting any on the rotors/brake pads.

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does the tech know what he is talking about? you can't bleed it without turning the the key on and pressing the brake.
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that's not where you bleed it. the one on the right is where you stick a hose and bleed it.
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Old 06-07-2022, 09:33 PM #24
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You really need to know if you're getting hydraulic pressure to the rear to know if there's a blockage or not, a little bit of fluid will come out when you loosen a fitting just from fluid in the brake hose/line.

Now that you have them loosened, I think you need to check for pressure, turn the ignition on have someone depress the brake pedal, loosen the fitting again and see if you get fluid coming out under pressure, it should come out forcefully and not just a trickle, if the fluid come out with some force/pressure, I would next go to the bleeder valve as mentioned by 4r-4ever, I would think the tech would know he needed to turn the ignition on for the rears but he may not have, for the fronts you don't have to turn on the ignition so he may not have done so for the rears, the bleeder valve is directly on the opposite side from the #2 fitting, it is small and has a hole in the nippled end, if the tech actually loosen the bleeder valves they shouldn't be very tight, be very careful when you tighten the bleeder valve back down, they are very small and you can easily break them off if you go crazy when tightening them, if you get fluid coming out under pressure then there's no blockage but you could still have seized calipers, to check if they are you will need to jack up the wheel with the transmission in neutral and see if you can easily rotate the wheel, if not then the caliper is most likely seized, if you can rotate it then try turning the ignition on and rotate the wheel and have them depress the brake pedal to see if the brakes are working and stops the wheel from turning, if it does then that caliper is not seized, rinse and repeat for the other side, make sure you block one of wheels in front and in back of it so the vehicle doesn't roll of the jack while it's in neutral.

Also make sure your assistant keeps the brake pedal depressed so there's fluid coming out until you have retighten the fittings and or bleeder valves, or it will suck air into the system and they will need to be bled to purge the air out.

Again make sure you keep the fluid level in the master cylinder topped off so you don't get air in to the system.

Also be careful not to get any brake fluid on the paint, it can damage it, also avoid getting any on the rotors/brake pads.

Awesome thank you so much for the additional details! Unfortunately my assistant didnít work out this evening. So Iíll give it another go in a few days, Lord willing. Ordered some Toyota brake fluid to have on hand instead my OLD bottle of Prestone. In the meantime, gonna go some studying on how brake systems work in more detail.


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Old 06-07-2022, 09:34 PM #25
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Hereís one of the rear rotors. Looks to me like the brakes arenít engaging. Could be wrong tho. Any thoughts?


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Old 06-08-2022, 01:06 AM #26
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Here’s one of the rear rotors. Looks to me like the brakes aren’t engaging. Could be wrong tho. Any thoughts?


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On the contrary, as shiny as the braking surface is on that rotor I would say they are definitely engaging, the question is, is the caliper releasing, can you easily turn the rotor?

If so I think that side is working just fine, especially if the back of that rotor looks the same as what is see in your photo.
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Old 06-08-2022, 05:56 PM #27
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On the contrary, as shiny as the braking surface is on that rotor I would say they are definitely engaging, the question is, is the caliper releasing, can you easily turn the rotor?

If so I think that side is working just fine, especially if the back of that rotor looks the same as what is see in your photo.

Well that would make sense, the pads would be keeping the rotors shiny. I figured there would be more markings or lines where the pads contact it. Iíll take a peek at the back and see what it looks like too. Iíll check the other rotor as well.

If all the rotors look the same, I could just try opening the bleeder myself, making sure the ignition is on and see what happens. I trust the tech turned on the ignition first, but I wasnít there so I cannot confirm for sure.


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Old 06-08-2022, 06:22 PM #28
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Well that would make sense, the pads would be keeping the rotors shiny. I figured there would be more markings or lines where the pads contact it. I’ll take a peek at the back and see what it looks like too. I’ll check the other rotor as well.

If all the rotors look the same, I could just try opening the bleeder myself, making sure the ignition is on and see what happens. I trust the tech turned on the ignition first, but I wasn’t there so I cannot confirm for sure.


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@Toystory2 , keep in mind just turning on the ignition is not enough, someone has to also depress the brake pedal to get pressure to the back before you open the bleeder valve.

You would be surprised how many Techs not familiar with a certain vehicle would know you have to turn on the ignition, not all vehicles are that way, there are many vehicles out there that you don't have to turn on the ignition to bleed the rear brakes, the Tech just needs to do a little research on the specifics of each vehicle if he doesn't work on that vehicle model all the time .
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Old 06-08-2022, 09:22 PM #29
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@Toystory2 , keep in mind just turning on the ignition is not enough, someone has to also depress the brake pedal to get pressure to the back before you open the bleeder valve.

You would be surprised how many Techs not familiar with a certain vehicle would know you have to turn on the ignition, not all vehicles are that way, there are many vehicles out there that you don't have to turn on the ignition to bleed the rear brakes, the Tech just needs to do a little research on the specifics of each vehicle if he doesn't work on that vehicle model all the time .

Thanks for the reminder about the pedal! You know, thatís a possibility that he didnít realize about the 4Runner. Hope so anyway : )

Does the opening of the bleeder screw and brake pedal depress need to occur at the exact same time to avoid sucking air in? Or is it inevitable that some air gets in?


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Old 06-09-2022, 02:52 AM #30
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Thanks for the reminder about the pedal! You know, thatís a possibility that he didnít realize about the 4Runner. Hope so anyway : )

Does the opening of the bleeder screw and brake pedal depress need to occur at the exact same time to avoid sucking air in? Or is it inevitable that some air gets in?


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Switch on, the brake pedal needs to be depressed and held down until you open and close the bleeder valve, if everything is working correctly fluid will squirt out of the bleeder valve under pressure, as soon as you see fluid coming out close the bleeder valve ASAP, no air will get in the system if you do it this way, unless you let the reservoir get too low.

Also you still haven't said if the rotor will turn or not, we need to know this to determine if the caliper is seized or not??
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