I'm glad for you I checked at McGeorge before you purchased it, I guess it pays(saves) to check a few different dealers before committing to buy!!

Me too, thanks.

I installed the new alternator and have a tip. I typically haven't had issues with stuck bolts so I didn't use PB Blaster before the job. Everything came right out except the 10mm bolt on the lower wire loom bracket. Do NOT round off that bolt!! It's easy to do b/c you can't really get a socket on it due to the tight quarters. I rounded it and had tried everything I could think of with no luck. Fortunately, my wife was out and was able to stop by Harbor Freight and pick up a set of these extractor sockets. With all the other bolts out, I was finally able to wrangle the alternator to a position where I could get the extractor socket on it and break it loose.

My battery was also shot. How shot? On Toyota's machine, my 665 CCA battery tested at 8 CCA.

The prorated warranty on my True-2 battery was at in the 50% time frame but they didn't have any, so they offered the TrueStart lifetime battery at 50% off retail, which worked out to $85. That seemed reasonable.

Found some rust under the plastic tray and on the bracket so I painted both with rust reformer and hosed that body area down with Fluid Film for good measure.



Reinstalled the tray and battery and the truck is back on the road.

Something to clarify here...

I am going to make the educated assumption that the service writer/technican/whoever the OP was talking to unplugged the regulator side of the alternator (3 or 4 pin plug) not the high Amp output cable.

This doesn't really hurt Toyotas as all your doing is inducing a "no charge" condition basically. Theoretically if the vehicle is operating as designed, then the battery would keep the vehicle running until it drops below about 11v or so, at which point the low voltage will start affecting sensor readings and the car will likely stumble and die. Toyota has been pretty good about protecting their electrical systems from stuff like this, I haven't seen too many ECUs or other important modules get taken out often. For something like that, someone would have to be a dumb ass and jump it backwards or bypass fuses.

Unplugging the regulator is also a easy diagnostic method for verifying a bad bearing/abnormal noise in an alternator as the noise will go away or change. It's an old school thing that still works well on most Toyotas. That being said, there is a possibility of causing damage, but realistically that damage would have already been done from the failed alternator and large voltage swings of a dead battery and jump starting.

Just figured I'd clarify that.

This is correct and thanks for the context. I was taken aback as I had never heard of that even after searching the web on ways to test an alternator. I also meant no disrespect and appreciate you clarifying that it wasn’t BS after all.

Don't mean to hijack thread, but I'm new here, and don't have 15 replies yet. I just replaced my battery and alternator on my 06 v6 Sport . Went to drive it one morning, batt light was on, and all of the abs, Trac lights...started fine, even drove it 4-5 miles to see if there were any mechanical problems... Any way, battery tested at 11.9, bought new battery...battery light still on.....removed alt, had it tested, bad....ordered a "Remy" alt (rebuilt) and put in. Volts show 12.8 at battery, 14.1-14.2 at idle...Problem, battery light STILL on. Checked all fuses, ign, alt, etc....all good.My obd II reader won't connect (never would) so I'm at a loss? By the way, the speed sensor wire had been pulled apart on the right side ???? I don't even off-road 4 wheel??? Any suggestions on the batt light? Did the batt disconnect, turn on lights, blow horn wait 15 min, etc....still on...rsbhunter