https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3720836-post167.html

Here what blackworks says on this old thread is really the mindset you should try to go towards. We really need to rule out the inputs to the computer. Even if you do want a new one it still will be disabled if the problem was an input.. reckon that test light and multimeter need to get busted out! Chitty chitty bang bang 👽 Does the parking brake light ever come on intermittent since your fluid leak?

Haha I'm completely blunted and not that lazy yet! It's in there somewhere I might look later if you haven't.

my friend, that fluid leak happened at 200k miles in august 2018! this is 2022. no, the parking brake light never comes on.

Ok because that could be a possible symptom. That 46 master pressure sensor code that the tech didn't bother with is something I would want to troubleshoot. It's actually a sneaky part of the stop lamp circuit which needs troubleshooted also. Those sensors within the master are actually the ones that signal the stop lamps on or off when they detect hydraulic pressure within range. I believe I posted that diagnostic procedure already also.

Pull codes manually via DLC-
Turn a/c system off,
Jump terminals TC and CG (4, 13) with appropriate sized wire or something similar. Make sure you're looking at the DLC right to jump the right terminals it's upside down on mine. Don't blow it up �� Just DON'T f_ck up the terminals by spreading then out!! Turn ignition switch to on. Codes will be blinked at the check engine light, abs light, VSC light, possibly the cruise control light. Let know if you need the complete check/clear code procedures and how to read the blink patterns. Turn ignition off and pull key, remove jumper from DLC.

DTC: diagnostic trouble code?
DTL: diagnostic trouble list?
DLC: dash light code?

wire to use: paperclip?

be aware, i am NOT getting a CEL

Correct on DTC, never heard of DTL, DLC -data link connector. A thin paperclip might work just kind of test it to make sure you're not gaping the female terminal 😆 I like a small gauge copper wire stripped on the ends.

ok, took a couple pics of the OBD2 plug. i assume that is what you mean by "data link connector"?

starting at the top, count 4 in, place one end of jumper, keep counting to 13, place other end of jumper.

turn key to ON.

now, will all the lights start blinking? what kind of numerical codes should i expect? low numbers of blinks, high numbers? do i have to record each lights blinks? they will just keep cycling through until jumper removed?

reading/clearing: that would be helpful. won't proceed until completely ready.

Attached Images

 

couldn't wait any longer:

ABS: 4 flashes
VSC: 4 flashes
TRAC: not visible
CRUISE: constant flash
CEL: visible, no flash

Yes that's the connector but it sounds like you did it wrong. It's upside down in your truck too like mine. Here are the TOYOTA instructions. Notice the connector is a trapezoid shape. Make sure you look at it in the correct orientation. Sounds like you may have tried it backwards. These instructions show a picture of the pins to jump. The codes should be blinked in two digit intervals..

Toyota 4Runner: Dtc Check / Clear - Vehicle Stability Control System(for Hydraulic Brake Booster) - Service Manual

jp3, you're making me look bad!

updated reading:

ABS: 46
VSC: 43

have at it!

Popping over from the 3rd gen side of the forum. I have a different problem than you, but the booster/ABS assemblies are very similar and I have documented the disassembly if you want to swap your ABS solenoids and pressure switches yourself. Check out post #14 in this thread for the process of removing this 'black box' assembly along with more information on how all this works.

I am unfamiliar with the ABS solenoids themselves, but the process of removing the black box is done from the MC side, not from underneath the plastic cover. There are screws underneath the cover but you do not want to separate the black box from the aluminum valve body that it is mounted on. If you remove the valve body from the MC, you will of course need to bleed it after, but this can be done at home. Hope that the visual documentation helps you understand how it all goes together.

thx vacationland!

jp3, looking at your toyota service manual link, looks like it is purely ABS (VSC is on just because of ABS). for ABS then, we have: 1421, 1422, 1423, 1424.

interesting read, possibly helpful: Just a moment...