09-12-2022, 09:36 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
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Real Name: Parker
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Age: 21
Posts: 146
Real Name: Parker
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Long travel rear - What does it take?
I'm looking at new shocks because the seal in my rear passenger Toytec BOSS shock crapped out after 25k miles and lost all it's oil
I'm considering just going ahead and going long travel while I'm at it, so I wanted to get some input on issues/considerations I should know when going long travel in the rear?
I've been doing my research and reading as many build threads and forum posts as I can find, and here's what I know:
- Variable rate springs so they stay seated
- Longer brake lines on axle to account for travel
- Adjustable upper/lower links to center axle (already getting)
- 2" bump stop extensions to limit compression (already installed)
- No sway bar (already uninstalled)
I'm mainly looking at the LT Dobinsons IMS shocks and LT Icon 56550 shocks (MetalTech Stage 2 LT kit)
Anything I'm missing, or issues I need to expect if I go long travel? This is my daily driver as well, but I already don't run a sway bar, so it shouldn't effect on-road handling, right? And what's with the issue of the driveshaft contacting the gas tank skid at full droop that I've read about? Would the position of the pan hard bar not make it arc away from the tank at droop?
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4wd V6 '03 Sport w/ 340k miles (175k engine swapped @ 326k) // 3" Suspension Lift + 3" Body Lift on 35" K02's
@toto.runner // Build Thread // Engine Swap Write-Up
Last edited by P_nlsn; 09-12-2022 at 09:41 PM.
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09-13-2022, 08:43 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Senior Member
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Long travel rear - What does it take?
When you say links to center the axle.. which way are you talking about centering? Adjustable rear links will let you push the axle back in the wheel well to help clear the contact you can get from the tire to the door when running 35's, but you'll need the panhard bar correction weld-on bracket to center the axle left/right in the rig. Cheap and easy to do if you have the ability to weld and will correct the panhard bar geometry and get it back to flat once you lift the rear. An adjustable panhard bar will get you centered at ride height, but it isn't the correct way to account for rear lift since the geometry will still be messed up and your axle will swing more one way than the other.
I'm running the Dobinsons IMS rear shocks with their variable rate springs and it's been nice. Which rear links are you looking to get? The factory links are definitely the limiting factor in downtravel. I made a custom set of adjustable links with heim joint ends on both ends. Gives me 0 binding at any point... but if I had to do it again I wouldn't put heim jointed links on a daily rig... lubrication maintenance has been a hassle.
Regarding the gas tank skid and driveshaft, mine contacted the skid until it finally bent the small area it was contacting back some and now clears. The panhard bar correction helps a little, but the issue comes not from full droop, but rather droop on the passenger side and full bump on the drivers side. This swings the axles drivers side and makes contact. I should actually say it isn't even full bump and droop.. I was making contact making a hard right turn.
Other than that it's not rocket science.. you're on the right path.
One last thing to be mindful of, if you are looking to push the rear axle back some, be mindful of how far you go before needing to get a driveshaft spacer to make sure you still have good spline engagement.
I pushed my rear axle back a good 1" or 1.5" to help clear 35's at full bump and ended up installing a 1" driveshaft space to make sure everything was still happy.
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2003 Limited V8 4runner - 37's, Tacoma Front End swap, ARB locked front and rear , LC200 rack swap
Last edited by aemravan; 09-13-2022 at 08:46 AM.
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09-13-2022, 08:48 AM
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#3
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I should also mention that I ended up running one of these spring spacers in the drivers side to correct the lean I was seeing. It wasn’t too noticeable before the new setup, but after doing the lt rear with the heavier springs I ended up with a noticeable lean when sitting flat.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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2003 Limited V8 4runner - 37's, Tacoma Front End swap, ARB locked front and rear , LC200 rack swap
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09-13-2022, 12:44 PM
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#4
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Age: 21
Posts: 146
Real Name: Parker
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Age: 21
Posts: 146
Real Name: Parker
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Thanks for the reply! On a side note, I've been reading through your build thread these past few days - excellent work man, you've made one heck of a rig. The TK1 sway-bar was a really cool find too, I've been thinking about getting something like that because my rig rolls so much while I'm driving since it's so tall with no swaybars
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
When you say links to center the axle.. which way are you talking about centering? Adjustable rear links will let you push the axle back in the wheel well to help clear the contact you can get from the tire to the door when running 35's, but you'll need the panhard bar correction weld-on bracket to center the axle left/right in the rig. Cheap and easy to do if you have the ability to weld and will correct the panhard bar geometry and get it back to flat once you lift the rear. An adjustable panhard bar will get you centered at ride height, but it isn't the correct way to account for rear lift since the geometry will still be messed up and your axle will swing more one way than the other.
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I'm referring to adjusting where the tire is in the wheel well (back and forth). The upper/lower links will help readjust my pinion angle too, I think it's angled up too far with my 3" lift. I've got some experience welding from my front bumper and sliders, so I also plan to get the Panhard correction from Eimkeith to restore the panhard geometry back to stock with my 3" lift. I don't plan on an adjustable panhard to help save money though, because the PCK should get it pretty close to centered again. I just plan to replace the worn out bushings with some Energy Suspension polyurethane ones
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
I'm running the Dobinsons IMS rear shocks with their variable rate springs and it's been nice. Which rear links are you looking to get? The factory links are definitely the limiting factor in downtravel.
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I've been looking at the Dobinsons LT IMS series, They seem to be a pretty good deal for their price. Glad to hear you like them! What coils are you running? I was thinking about just going with Dobinsons variable rate coils too (edit: My bad, just saw the picture of your Dobinson blue coils. So let me change the question to what you think of Dobinson coils)
I'm probably gonna go with Dobinson for the upper/lower rear links too. They have some of the best prices I've seen for adjustable links, and they don't have heims.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
I made a custom set of adjustable links with heim joint ends on both ends. Gives me 0 binding at any point... but if I had to do it again I wouldn't put heim jointed links on a daily rig... lubrication maintenance has been a hassle.
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Yeah, this is my daily rig too, and I've heard a lot about how heims are too rough for links to make a comfortable daily rig
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
Regarding the gas tank skid and driveshaft, mine contacted the skid until it finally bent the small area it was contacting back some and now clears. The panhard bar correction helps a little, but the issue comes not from full droop, but rather droop on the passenger side and full bump on the drivers side. This swings the axles drivers side and makes contact. I should actually say it isn't even full bump and droop.. I was making contact making a hard right turn.
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Oh, ok. Thank you for the clarification. That makes a lot more sense, I guess I misunderstood what I was reading. But from what you said, it doesn't sound like it contacts too much, so a few love taps on the skid with a hammer outta sort it out, right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
One last thing to be mindful of, if you are looking to push the rear axle back some, be mindful of how far you go before needing to get a driveshaft spacer to make sure you still have good spline engagement.
I pushed my rear axle back a good 1" or 1.5" to help clear 35's at full bump and ended up installing a 1" driveshaft space to make sure everything was still happy.
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Interesting. I've been running 35's since I put the 3" suspension lift on and don't have any issues stuffing them on stock links. But granted, I know the 3" body lift and 2" bump stop spacers are to thank for that
__________________
+================================================= ==============+
4wd V6 '03 Sport w/ 340k miles (175k engine swapped @ 326k) // 3" Suspension Lift + 3" Body Lift on 35" K02's
@toto.runner // Build Thread // Engine Swap Write-Up
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09-13-2022, 01:19 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P_nlsn
Thanks for the reply! On a side note, I've been reading through your build thread these past few days - excellent work man, you've made one heck of a rig. The TK1 sway-bar was a really cool find too, I've been thinking about getting something like that because my rig rolls so much while I'm driving since it's so tall with no swaybars
I'm referring to adjusting where the tire is in the wheel well (back and forth). The upper/lower links will help readjust my pinion angle too, I think it's angled up too far with my 3" lift. I've got some experience welding from my front bumper and sliders, so I also plan to get the Panhard correction from Eimkeith to restore the panhard geometry back to stock with my 3" lift. I don't plan on an adjustable panhard to help save money though, because the PCK should get it pretty close to centered again. I just plan to replace the worn out bushings with some Energy Suspension polyurethane ones
I've been looking at the Dobinsons LT IMS series, They seem to be a pretty good deal for their price. Glad to hear you like them! What coils are you running? I was thinking about just going with Dobinsons variable rate coils too (edit: My bad, just saw the picture of your Dobinson blue coils. So let me change the question to what you think of Dobinson coils)
I'm probably gonna go with Dobinson for the upper/lower rear links too. They have some of the best prices I've seen for adjustable links, and they don't have heims.
Yeah, this is my daily rig too, and I've heard a lot about how heims are too rough for links to make a comfortable daily rig
Oh, ok. Thank you for the clarification. That makes a lot more sense, I guess I misunderstood what I was reading. But from what you said, it doesn't sound like it contacts too much, so a few love taps on the skid with a hammer outta sort it out, right?
Interesting. I've been running 35's since I put the 3" suspension lift on and don't have any issues stuffing them on stock links. But granted, I know the 3" body lift and 2" bump stop spacers are to thank for that
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Thanks man! Lots of hard work over the past 2 years but it has come a long, long way.
my rear setup is Dobinsons IMS59-50575 LT Shocks w/ C59-749V springs. I have no complaints at all.. they seem to ride a lot nicer than the bilstien/OME combo, and just as good if not better than the Icon 2.5 I ran briefly in the rear before going the LT route.
for the skid.. I honestly didn't even touch it.. it self clearanced itself. lol.
I'm sure having a 3" body lift is certainly helpful to not hit the inner door at full stuff. I'm only on a 1.5" body lift and maximized the up travel just about 100%. It wasn't much, but did rub a bit, and I was gearing up to be able to run a 37" tire later on.
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2003 Limited V8 4runner - 37's, Tacoma Front End swap, ARB locked front and rear , LC200 rack swap
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09-13-2022, 01:46 PM
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#6
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Age: 21
Posts: 146
Real Name: Parker
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Age: 21
Posts: 146
Real Name: Parker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
my rear setup is Dobinsons IMS59-50575 LT Shocks w/ C59-749V springs. I have no complaints at all.. they seem to ride a lot nicer than the bilstien/OME combo, and just as good if not better than the Icon 2.5 I ran briefly in the rear before going the LT route.
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Sweet, I'm definitely leaning towards the IMS now
From my understanding, I think I need to be looking at the C59-701V coils. I'm running about 400lbs of armor right now, with plans to hopefully add a rear bumper w/ jerry cans and spare tire soon, getting me close to the constant +600LBS rating of the 701V's. Most of the armor weight is more towards the front though (bumper, winch, skids, etc) so I'm not sure if I should still use that weight to determine my rear coils? I'll probably reach out to Dobinsons and see what they recommend
Edit: I just got off the phone with Dobinsons, and they confirmed that the front armor weight does not effect the rear coils. It makes sense, but I wanted to double check. So now I'm thinking I need the C59-677V coils, they seem to be rated more for 3" at stock and 2.5" w/ 200-400lbs, which is probably more like what I'm gonna have (When loaded for trips, I'm assuming: 100lb bumper + 100lb spare tire + 60lbs full jerry cans + 100lbs firewood = ~360lbs)
My current lift was 3"/2" to level it, so the 2.5-3" in the rear may feel weird at first though
Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
for the skid.. I honestly didn't even touch it.. it self clearanced itself. lol.
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Oh nice
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+================================================= ==============+
4wd V6 '03 Sport w/ 340k miles (175k engine swapped @ 326k) // 3" Suspension Lift + 3" Body Lift on 35" K02's
@toto.runner // Build Thread // Engine Swap Write-Up
Last edited by P_nlsn; 09-13-2022 at 02:43 PM.
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09-13-2022, 03:51 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Jun 2020
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You said you saw some of my build.. so you have a decent idea of what my rig weighs... lol
Between the coastal offroad rear bumper with dual swing outs, spare, 35's, built-in drawers, roofrack with permanently mounted hardshell, etc. I think I have just about as much weight as you can pack onto these rigs.. so I went with the heaviest option. I can tell you that it certainly sits high in the rear if I were to pull everything out, and not sure what it would look like if I pulled the tent off and drawers out lol. So yea, I think you're on the right track for the coils. If you don't mind the rake (which I no longer do) you could plan for future weight and get an according spring, it would just sit a bit higher, however, with the cost of these and ease of replacement it probably isn't worth the extra spring rate early on.
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2003 Limited V8 4runner - 37's, Tacoma Front End swap, ARB locked front and rear , LC200 rack swap
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09-13-2022, 04:31 PM
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#8
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Age: 21
Posts: 146
Real Name: Parker
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bryant, Arkansas
Age: 21
Posts: 146
Real Name: Parker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aemravan
You said you saw some of my build.. so you have a decent idea of what my rig weighs... lol
Between the coastal offroad rear bumper with dual swing outs, spare, 35's, built-in drawers, roofrack with permanently mounted hardshell, etc. I think I have just about as much weight as you can pack onto these rigs.. so I went with the heaviest option. I can tell you that it certainly sits high in the rear if I were to pull everything out, and not sure what it would look like if I pulled the tent off and drawers out lol. So yea, I think you're on the right track for the coils. If you don't mind the rake (which I no longer do) you could plan for future weight and get an according spring, it would just sit a bit higher, however, with the cost of these and ease of replacement it probably isn't worth the extra spring rate early on.
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True, you've crammed quite a bit of weight on that thing lol
You bring up a fair point. At only $320 to ship a new set of coils, and like 20 minutes with a jack and spring compressor, it really wouldn't be that bad to just order a heavier set when I order the rear bumper parts
Thank you for the quick replies and information!
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4wd V6 '03 Sport w/ 340k miles (175k engine swapped @ 326k) // 3" Suspension Lift + 3" Body Lift on 35" K02's
@toto.runner // Build Thread // Engine Swap Write-Up
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