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Old 09-16-2022, 08:16 PM #1
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[Help] Broken Bolt Extraction

Wanted to do some preventive maintenance and decided to replace the gas straps after I saw the sticky, rear bolt came out fine and I was able to replace that, but unfortunately, the head broke off of the front one even after soaking it in penetrating oil for a few days. I also failed extracting it using a broken bolt extractor, part of it actually snapped off too while attempting, so another headache.

I am wondering if anyone else has been in this predicament and what their solution was (also, I do not own a welder). I did read over the sticky and I don't think I recall anyone stating they snapped the front one (rear one, yes). I currently have a ratcheting strap in place, which compared to the rusty strap that was holding it before is significantly better.
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Old 09-16-2022, 09:37 PM #2
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If you can remove the broken bolt extractor you may be able to use a left hand drill bit. Iíve been successful doing that once. I found a cheapie set from harbor freight. Iíve also had luck using a small flat chisel and hammer to work to a bolt backwards. Good luck bud
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Old 09-16-2022, 09:44 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-desertT4R View Post
If you can remove the broken bolt extractor you may be able to use a left hand drill bit. I’ve been successful doing that once. I found a cheapie set from harbor freight. I’ve also had luck using a small flat chisel and hammer to work to a bolt backwards. Good luck bud
Ah yeah, I did try a left handed drill bit (the same kit you likely purchased from HF, lol) before the extractor and also tried a chisel and hammer, but unfortunately, failed. Those options might've worked on a less crusty, lower strength bolt.
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Old 09-16-2022, 09:57 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gookies View Post
Ah yeah, I did try a left handed drill bit (the same kit you likely purchased from HF, lol) before the extractor and also tried a chisel and hammer, but unfortunately, failed. Those options might've worked on a less crusty, lower strength bolt.
Damnit!!! That sucks man. Maybe ask around FB groups local to you to have someone weld a nut in there for you. I guess I’m lucky to live in the desert. No rusty crusties lol. I just have dry rotted rubber seals and parts instead lol.

Maybe you can punch all the way through and get some nutserts?
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Old 09-16-2022, 10:05 PM #5
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I pretty much expect to snap a bolt on any job i do now. I try to tigthen it an 1/8 turn before loosening I go very slow, really aggressively use lubricants and heat.

Are you able to just leave it and maybe mount the new strap someplace else or just not use that bolt.

Alternatively, if there is any of the bolt sticking out, can you get a vice grip on it? can you hammer a small socket on to it and see if you can back it out that way?
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Old 09-17-2022, 07:44 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-desertT4R View Post
Damnit!!! That sucks man. Maybe ask around FB groups local to you to have someone weld a nut in there for you. I guess Iím lucky to live in the desert. No rusty crusties lol. I just have dry rotted rubber seals and parts instead lol.

Maybe you can punch all the way through and get some nutserts?
Yeah, I have been looking locally for someone to do exactly that, tried emailing a local welding/fab shop, had a feeling they didn't work on vehicles and yep, they do not. I thought of breaking the weld nut loose as an option and dropping in a bolt through the frame (there is an access hole not too far from it) as kind of a last resort option or actually getting a welder to just weld that strap buckle to the frame. At this point in my 4Runner's life, that strap will likely last longer than the vehicle. Or simplest method, ignore it, leave the HF ratcheting strap and check it every so often, replace if needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Syr4RinNC View Post
I pretty much expect to snap a bolt on any job i do now. I try to tigthen it an 1/8 turn before loosening I go very slow, really aggressively use lubricants and heat.

Are you able to just leave it and maybe mount the new strap someplace else or just not use that bolt.

Alternatively, if there is any of the bolt sticking out, can you get a vice grip on it? can you hammer a small socket on to it and see if you can back it out that way?
The gas tank strap lines up exactly with that, not too much leeway. There was a small piece of it sticking out and I tried using a hammer and chisel, no go, not enough meat for vice grips.

Actually, here's a picture I forgot I took.
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Old 09-17-2022, 11:37 AM #7
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At this point I would try and punch out the welded nut out of the frame with a BFH (Big F...king Hammer) and good punch then drop in a bolt from above.

Attempting to remove the broken bolt again means trying to get the broken extractor out...which will not be easy, there's no drilling it out because it's hardened steel and much harder then a any drill bit, the only way to get it out is using a diamond Dremel bit and grinding it away, if by chance you go this route and get the broken extractor out, drill the bolt again with several drill bits going up in size until you get to the size of the original bolt or slightly bigger and then retap new threads.
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Old 09-18-2022, 10:22 PM #8
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New hole and rivnut?

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Old 09-19-2022, 11:55 AM #9
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I replaced my tank straps over the weekend and sheared off the bolts in the process despite my efforts to loosen them carefully.
I then used a punch and a large hammer to knock the sheared bolt and nut free inside the frame rail after reverse drill bits and easy outs failed.

As you can access the location via openings in the frame I used a magnetic pick up tool to align new hardware (fender washer + nylon nut + bolt) for the new strap.
I will be doing the same operation for all of the tank skid bolts I sheared off as well.
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Old 09-19-2022, 02:26 PM #10
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I replaced my tank straps over the weekend and sheared off the bolts in the process despite my efforts to loosen them carefully.
I then used a punch and a large hammer to knock the sheared bolt and nut free inside the frame rail after reverse drill bits and easy outs failed.

As you can access the location via openings in the frame I used a magnetic pick up tool to align new hardware (fender washer + nylon nut + bolt) for the new strap.
I will be doing the same operation for all of the tank skid bolts I sheared off as well.
Mind showing pictures? You sheared off both of them?
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Old 09-19-2022, 02:53 PM #11
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Mind showing pictures? You sheared off both of them?
I sheared off the front bolt and most of the tank skid plate bolts. The rear I was able to salvage.
In the picture below I was able to feed a nylon nut, with a magnetic pick up tool, into position over the bolt hole. From there I used my finger to hold it in place and get the threads started. Finally via the square hole I used a box end wrench to hold the nylon nut while I used an impact to drive the bolt home.
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Old 09-19-2022, 02:57 PM #12
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I sheared off the front bolt and most of the tank skid plate bolts. The rear I was able to salvage.
In the picture below I was able to feed a nylon nut, with a magnetic pick up tool, into position over the bolt hole. From there I used my finger to hold it in place and get the threads started. Finally via the square hole I used a box end wrench to hold the nylon nut while I used an impact to drive the bolt home.
Nice! Thought you did it the other way (dropped the bolt through the hole inside the frame, nut on the outside). I also sheared off a few of my skid plate bolts, but I'm not going to put it back on, so no biggie on my end. The front skid plate has been off for years due to the same problem.
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Old 09-19-2022, 05:07 PM #13
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At this point I would try and punch out the welded nut out of the frame with a BFH (Big F...king Hammer) and good punch then drop in a bolt from above.
This is what I did. Couple whacks with the BFH and a punch and the tack welded nut was gone. Dropped a long bolt through the hole from the inside with a magnetic pickup tool. Attached the strap with a nut and cut off the excess. The rear one was much harder for me as the metal was rusted enough that it broke off the tab. That one took welding.
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Old 09-19-2022, 05:27 PM #14
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This is what I did. Couple whacks with the BFH and a punch and the tack welded nut was gone. Dropped a long bolt through the hole from the inside with a magnetic pickup tool. Attached the strap with a nut and cut off the excess. The rear one was much harder for me as the metal was rusted enough that it broke off the tab. That one took welding.
There are threads in the frame rail too, right? Or does this bolt only thread into that welded nut? My rear one came out fine, fortunately, but do you mind adding a bit more detail on what you had to do? Did that mount (where the gas tank strap bolts to) that attaches to the frame break off or something?

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Old 09-20-2022, 04:38 PM #15
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There are threads in the frame rail too, right? Or does this bolt only thread into that welded nut? My rear one came out fine, fortunately, but do you mind adding a bit more detail on what you had to do? Did that mount (where the gas tank strap bolts to) that attaches to the frame break off or something?
No, I'm pretty sure the threads are just on the tacked on nut on the inside of the frame. As for mine, the part that's welded to the frame like shown in the picture below, was rusted enough that the whole thing ripped off trying to get the bolt out. I welded on angle iron to replace it.

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Picture above from thread: Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)
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