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Old 10-20-2022, 03:51 PM #16
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A bit of PB blaster or similar goes a long ways on these things. Cleans out the dirt and makes them slide easier. Or you could break them then zip tie later.
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Old 10-20-2022, 09:22 PM #17
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So I made some more progress tonight. I was able to remove the lower intake and the passenger side valve cover. It's definitely slow going for me. I am trying to take pictures of everything so that I can figure out where everything goes when I put it back. I also loosened the harmonic balancer bolt by bump starting the truck while using a breaker bar. This was a bit sketchy but it turned out to be very easy.

This is where I ended up tonight. I got stuck on trying to remove the clips that are noted with the 2 red arrows in the bottom of the picture.
[IMG][/IMG]

A close up of one of the clips on the power steering pump. I am tempted to break that off.
[IMG][/IMG]

My intake looks pretty greasy and oily. Is that normal for a truck with almost 300k miles?
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 10-20-2022, 09:35 PM #18
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Red face

I have a ?. Ok so apparently I like hunting deer but only with my truck and not a gun. Anyhow, so I used a tree,tractor,and chain to straighten the frame a bit in order to get the new headlights in. Accomplished. Then after roughly 800 miles I heard this knocking sound from inside the cab. I pulled over got out and immediately shut off the truck. I narrowed it down to the front passenger side of the truck. Pulled the top end to find that the lobes on the cam on the passenger side were making contact with the underside of the cover housing. So how do I get it right? I'm not sure why eventually it started making contact. Do I just need to replace the cam and bearings and do the timing and pump on top of it considering it's right at 250,000 miles? Should I be concerned of any further damage? Like valves or anything? This is the deepest I've ever had to break down an engine. And it's my only vehicle, but I love her. Help!!!?
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Old 10-20-2022, 10:08 PM #19
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Heather
Not sure if I can help. Never heard of anything like that. With a tree, tractor and a chain, it sounds like you got a lot of stuff going on. I would suggest starting a new thread.
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Old 10-21-2022, 12:39 AM #20
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The cars recirculate the breather tube from the valve covers into the intake, so I believe thatís why it looks like that. Canít remember exactly what mine looked like.

Those clips are definitely a PITA. I think I stuck a screw driver or pick into them and was able to pull them off.

Looking good!


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Old 10-21-2022, 10:16 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
So I made some more progress tonight. I was able to remove the lower intake and the passenger side valve cover. It's definitely slow going for me. I am trying to take pictures of everything so that I can figure out where everything goes when I put it back. I also loosened the harmonic balancer bolt by bump starting the truck while using a breaker bar. This was a bit sketchy but it turned out to be very easy.

This is where I ended up tonight. I got stuck on trying to remove the clips that are noted with the 2 red arrows in the bottom of the picture.
[IMG][/IMG]

A close up of one of the clips on the power steering pump. I am tempted to break that off.
[IMG][/IMG]

My intake looks pretty greasy and oily. Is that normal for a truck with almost 300k miles?
[IMG][/IMG]
Good Stuff. Take it nice and slow, no need to rush a big job like this.

My intake looked pretty bad too at around 145000 miles. might be worth spraying some sort of grease remover while you are there and let it soak for some time.
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Old 10-21-2022, 03:23 PM #22
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So far it looks way better than mine did when I got it. The previous owner apparently didn't like to change the oil. On the driver's side on mine there was hardened deposits near the top of the timing chain.
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Old 10-21-2022, 05:07 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
So I made some more progress tonight. I was able to remove the lower intake and the passenger side valve cover. It's definitely slow going for me. I am trying to take pictures of everything so that I can figure out where everything goes when I put it back. I also loosened the harmonic balancer bolt by bump starting the truck while using a breaker bar. This was a bit sketchy but it turned out to be very easy.

This is where I ended up tonight. I got stuck on trying to remove the clips that are noted with the 2 red arrows in the bottom of the picture.
[IMG][/IMG]

A close up of one of the clips on the power steering pump. I am tempted to break that off.
[IMG][/IMG]

My intake looks pretty greasy and oily. Is that normal for a truck with almost 300k miles?
[IMG][/IMG]
My intake looked like that with 189k miles on it too. I didn't take the time to degrease it, but I should have. There's videos on Youtube for how to clean it and which degreasers work best.
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Old 10-21-2022, 05:12 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatcheeks View Post
1) Head bolt tool
- I found the CTA tools head bolt tool but I want to be sure that will fit well as I do not want to round out any head bolts. Any reason not to use this one? Anyone use the Toyota tool, 09013-7C310?
I used the snap-on version. Just make sure its a good quality tool because those bolts are on tight. Id use either toyota or snap on. Not sure about CTA quality.

2) Gasket sealer
- Regarding sealing the front timing cover and front part of the oil pan. Is the Toyota FIPG sufficient for both?
I believe its the same. Aisin sells a FIGP which i believe is the same as the toyota one. Its good for timing cover and valve cover.

3) Replacement head gaskets and seals for timing cover and oil pickup
- Are all of these gaskets part of one kit? If so, does anyone have a part number handy?
04112-31720 is what I used.


4) Head studs
- It seems like the consensus is to replace them. I plan to just go with the OEM ones.
I used fel-pro but OEM is always the best.
I agree with phatcheeks on the head bolt tool. I talked to zguy1 in a message, but wanted to add it here. I used the CTA tool when I did it and it was a huge PITA and I ended up stripping a head bolt when I was taking the heads off. It will work, but you really have to wiggle it around to get it fully seated. You'll know it's seated when it makes a "pop" sound, if you don't hear that, don't try to move the bolt. Save yourself the trouble and get the Snap-on or Toyota tool.
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Old 10-21-2022, 09:08 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djpope09 View Post
I agree with phatcheeks on the head bolt tool. I talked to zguy1 in a message, but wanted to add it here. I used the CTA tool when I did it and it was a huge PITA and I ended up stripping a head bolt when I was taking the heads off. It will work, but you really have to wiggle it around to get it fully seated. You'll know it's seated when it makes a "pop" sound, if you don't hear that, don't try to move the bolt. Save yourself the trouble and get the Snap-on or Toyota tool.
The CTA tool is supposed to arrive on Monday but after hearing from multiple folks, including you, I will try to get either the Snap On or the Toyota one. I haven't look yet, but I am not sure where I would get a Snap On one. I didn't place my order for the gasket kit or the head bolts yet so maybe I can get the Toyota at the same time.

I plan to get that OEM kit, head bolts and FIPG sealer. Still waiting till I finish disassembling to decide on replacing any timing components still. I will replace the water pump and thermostat too but I will order ASIN parts from Rock Auto.

I didn't work on the truck today, weather was too nice.
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Old 10-22-2022, 10:07 AM #26
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might as well change the knock sensors while your in there, if they've never been changed before just as preventative. as if they go out you have to do exactly the same job just to replace them.
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Old 10-22-2022, 07:10 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
The CTA tool is supposed to arrive on Monday but after hearing from multiple folks, including you, I will try to get either the Snap On or the Toyota one. I haven't look yet, but I am not sure where I would get a Snap On one. I didn't place my order for the gasket kit or the head bolts yet so maybe I can get the Toyota at the same time.

I plan to get that OEM kit, head bolts and FIPG sealer. Still waiting till I finish disassembling to decide on replacing any timing components still. I will replace the water pump and thermostat too but I will order ASIN parts from Rock Auto.

I didn't work on the truck today, weather was too nice.
You can order Snap-On tools online.

Snap-on Store

Toyota Tool.

https://toyota.service-solutions.com...KU=09013-7C310
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Old 10-22-2022, 11:03 PM #28
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Originally Posted by daprotege5 View Post
might as well change the knock sensors while your in there, if they've never been changed before just as preventative. as if they go out you have to do exactly the same job just to replace them.
What's that phrase?? "While you're in there."


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You can order Snap-On tools online.

Snap-on Store

Toyota Tool.

https://toyota.service-solutions.com...KU=09013-7C310
Thank you. I will order one of these.
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Old 10-22-2022, 11:13 PM #29
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I made some more progress tonight. Pulled the right valve cover, pulleys, power steering pump, alternator, oil filter housing and water pump. That alternator was a real pain in the you know what.

I did notice on the water pump that there was a bunch of crud. Not sure if that is normal or if it leaked at one time. That is hidden behind the fan pulley so you would never know unless it leaked out.

Tomorrow I will work on unbolting the compressor and then attempt to pull the timing cover.



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Old 10-23-2022, 12:01 AM #30
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I made some more progress tonight. Pulled the right valve cover, pulleys, power steering pump, alternator, oil filter housing and water pump. That alternator was a real pain in the you know what.

I did notice on the water pump that there was a bunch of crud. Not sure if that is normal or if it leaked at one time. That is hidden behind the fan pulley so you would never know unless it leaked out.

Tomorrow I will work on unbolting the compressor and then attempt to pull the timing cover.



That's for sure a leaking water pump, that where they leak, it's a weep hole once the shaft seal deteriorates that is where it will leak, definitely time for replacement it and it was an active leak.

Anytime on these Toyotas that uses the pink coolant and you see that pink crud it's an active leak.
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