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Old 10-23-2022, 08:20 PM #31
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So I spent several hours removing the A/C compressor this evening. It was a pain to get to the bolts holding the compressor to the bracket that has the tensioner on it. After much swearing and removing some wire harnesses, I was able to unbolt it and get it out of the way. I was able to remove that bracket as well.

So I am struggling to get the harmonic balancer off. From my understanding it is not pressed on and should come off.

Do I need some sort of a puller still?
I don't want to bend it or break something.

thanks...
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Old 10-24-2022, 08:40 AM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
So I spent several hours removing the A/C compressor this evening. It was a pain to get to the bolts holding the compressor to the bracket that has the tensioner on it. After much swearing and removing some wire harnesses, I was able to unbolt it and get it out of the way. I was able to remove that bracket as well.

So I am struggling to get the harmonic balancer off. From my understanding it is not pressed on and should come off.

Do I need some sort of a puller still?
I don't want to bend it or break something.

thanks...
their a little tight to pull off, a pulley puller works just fine.
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Old 10-24-2022, 03:53 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daprotege5 View Post
their a little tight to pull off, a pulley puller works just fine.
This ^^^ You'll need some sort of puller. I recall there being a threaded hole on each of the pulley spindles. With the puller it slowly moved on out with only a bit of effort.

I used something similar to this. Obviously metric bolts are needed.
Amazon.com: Auto Body Now ABN Harmonic Balancer Puller 46-Piece Tool Kit – Flywheel Remover, Crankshaft Pulley Removal, Steering Wheel Pulling Set : Automotive
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Old 10-26-2022, 10:43 PM #34
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Update on progress...

I did rent a harmonic balancer puller the other day but I could not use it. Looks like I needed M8x1.5 bolts to fit the balancer and the kit I rented only had M8x1.25 ones. I ended up tapping the balancer with a rubber mallet and I was able to pull it off.

Tonight I was able to get both heads out of the truck.

My next steps are to try and remove the exhaust manifolds from the heads since they are out of the truck now. I plan to take the heads to the machine shop hopefully by the end of the week. I'm still waiting on my parts to arrive specifically the gasket set which contains valve seals. I want to have those with me when I go to the machine shop.

All in all this has been a tedious job. With the exception of prepping the engine block surface and sealing the timing cover I am not too worried about putting the truck back together. All of the bolts have been bagged along the way. I am a bit worried about all of the harnesses and how they route through the engine area. Hopefully it will be easy on reassembly.

Here are some pics...

Heads ready to come out.


Driver's side w/ gasket removed.


Drivers side head (valve side)


Both heads w/ exhaust manifolds attached.

Last edited by zguy1; 10-26-2022 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 10-26-2022, 11:20 PM #35
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Following closely, am only at 93k miles but keeping for life.

From all I read at my mileage replacing the water pump is a good preventative measure, wonder how long people took to replace theirs
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Old 10-27-2022, 04:01 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
Update on progress...

I did rent a harmonic balancer puller the other day but I could not use it. Looks like I needed M8x1.5 bolts to fit the balancer and the kit I rented only had M8x1.25 ones. I ended up tapping the balancer with a rubber mallet and I was able to pull it off.

Tonight I was able to get both heads out of the truck.

My next steps are to try and remove the exhaust manifolds from the heads since they are out of the truck now. I plan to take the heads to the machine shop hopefully by the end of the week. I'm still waiting on my parts to arrive specifically the gasket set which contains valve seals. I want to have those with me when I go to the machine shop.
Nice going! Can you see where the issue was? Heat is your friend on those exhaust manifold bolts.
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Old 10-27-2022, 04:55 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67 View Post
Nice going! Can you see where the issue was? Heat is your friend on those exhaust manifold bolts.
I missed the heat part. I got 11 out of 12 bolts. The impact just round one of the nuts off.
Should still try some heat and then attempt with vice grips? I would hate to bring in one head with the exhaust manifold hanging on with one rounded bolt. In hindsight, I used my 3/8 impact and probably should of hit it with my 1/2 instead.

[IMG][/IMG]


I looked at the gasket and I really couldn't tell. Here are some pictures of the head gasket from the driver's side. The first one is gasket as is and the second is a picture of it upside down to show the surface facing the block.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by zguy1; 10-27-2022 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 10-27-2022, 06:07 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zguy1 View Post
I missed the heat part. I got 11 out of 12 bolts. The impact just round one of the nuts off.
Should still try some heat and then attempt with vice grips? I would hate to bring in one head with the exhaust manifold hanging on with one rounded bolt. In hindsight, I used my 3/8 impact and probably should of hit it with my 1/2 instead.

[IMG][/IMG]
When you were removing the manifold nuts, did you use a 6 point socket, or a 12 point socket?

If you used a 12 point socket you still maybe able to remove that last nut with a 6 point socket, make sure it all the way on the nut even if you have to tap it a bit with a hammer, and yes use litte bit of heat on it.

A 6 point socket is always best to avoid rounding off stubborn nuts and bolts, there much more surface contact with the sides of the nut/bolt than when using a 12 point socket, if you don't have a good set of 6 points socket I recommend getting one and using them more often than not.
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Old 10-27-2022, 06:16 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker View Post
When you were removing the manifold nuts, did you use a 6 point socket, or a 12 point socket?

If you used a 12 point socket you still maybe able to remove that last nut with a 6 point socket, make sure it all the way on the nut even if you have to tap it a bit with a hammer, and yes use litte bit of heat on it.

A 6 point socket is always best to avoid rounding off stubborn nuts and bolts, there much more surface contact with the sides of the nut/bolt than when using a 12 point socket, if you don't have a good set of 6 points socket I recommend getting one and using them more often than not.

It was a 6 point impact socket.
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Old 10-27-2022, 06:23 PM #40
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Quote:
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It was a 6 point impact socket.
You could try a slightly smaller socket if you can tap it on the nut with a hammer, other wise heat and ViseGrips.
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Old 10-27-2022, 07:18 PM #41
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Quote:
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You could try a slightly smaller socket if you can tap it on the nut with a hammer, other wise heat and ViseGrips.
Great minds think alike . I heated it up and then tried vice grips to no avail. I used a smaller SAE socket and hammered it on. Once I put my impact on it came right off.

So now I am in cleaning mode while I wait for my parts. I have an initial online order from a Toyota dealer with the gasket set, water pump, thermostat, FIPG and head bolts. I was on the fence about the head bolts but ended up ordering them. I am going to reuse the washers though. I am still pondering what if any timing components to replace.

I am going to hold off bringing the head to the machine shop until I get my gasket set that contains new valve seals. I hope they don't insist on a valve job if I want to replace the valve seals only assuming there are no issues currently with valves sealing.

Do I need to remove anything special from the heads prior to going to the machine shop? Oil control valve? Water pipe? See attached image.

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Old 10-28-2022, 01:24 PM #42
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I think valve seals would be the only thing to replace perhaps. I did mine in messy basement and shot one of the retainers across the room. Luckily it only added 30 minutes to the job to find it.
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Old 10-28-2022, 01:56 PM #43
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I think valve seals would be the only thing to replace perhaps. I did mine in messy basement and shot one of the retainers across the room. Luckily it only added 30 minutes to the job to find it.

I've gone this far on my own. What tools would I need to replace them? I'm guessing I would need a tool to remove the valves and one for the seals themselves?
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Old 10-28-2022, 03:42 PM #44
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Glad to see you got them off. Sure does help that it's no longer in the engine bay. Here's something extra and expensive to ponder. The exhaust manifolds are pretty weak where they bolt onto the heads, especially if living in the salt belt. I've had to replace mine because it was leaking and a new gasket wasn't enough which is how I know those manifold nuts can be brutal. At least if you have a leak after putting it back together it will be easy to replace but something to look out for.
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Old 10-30-2022, 11:21 AM #45
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Glad to see you got them off. Sure does help that it's no longer in the engine bay. Here's something extra and expensive to ponder. The exhaust manifolds are pretty weak where they bolt onto the heads, especially if living in the salt belt. I've had to replace mine because it was leaking and a new gasket wasn't enough which is how I know those manifold nuts can be brutal. At least if you have a leak after putting it back together it will be easy to replace but something to look out for.
I'll keep that in mind. I hope I would know if there is a leak later. It's definitely good to know that I will be able to remove them later if needed. This would have ended in disaster trying to remove them with the heads in the truck. I am pretty sure I would have rounded or broken several bolts. I plan to replace the nuts and use anti-seize on the threads. I am tempted to replace some of the exhaust studs but I am concerned if those will come out of the head without breaking when attempting with an e-torx socket.
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