It's hard say for sure, it's certainly possible, lapping, if the valves and seats were in relatively good condition before lapping wouldn't change the gap too much, if the valves were in tolerance to begin with and that would depend on wear.

You will find out shortly after checking them.

I was able to check the clearances last night. I double checked them since I had to make sure I was using the feeler gauge correctly. Next time around I would use a longer set of feeler gauges which are narrower towards the end since it is a pretty tight area checking the valves at cylinder #1.

Anyway, they all appear in spec except for 1 exhaust valve at cylinder #6. It's interesting that they are all on the larger end of the range. I would have thought the clearances would decrease after wear and lapping. Maybe this is a true testament to how these things are built.

Did the machine shop check the valves again the make sure they're not leaking?

No, they did not.

Looks like you are moving along, good to see. Otherwise I have little to add as I do not know anything about valve adjustment on these motors. Is it a disk that gets replaced if a different size is needed?

It's a lifter that gets replaced. First you measure the actual clearance, then you measure the lifter itself, plug those values into a formula to get the ideal lifter. Match that value to one of the 35 lifters that Toyota sells.

Cool. I thought maybe it was like a motorcycle I worked on that had shims that seated into the lifter buckets.

Did anyone change their front crankshaft seal when replacing the head gaskets or resealing the front timing cover?

It's not part of the valve grind kit. Mine wasn't leaking so I suppose I can reuse it. I am planning to order a new oil dipstick seal, that seemed to be pretty loose when I removed it.

Seeing you're in that deep, it's a cheap part that's easy to replace plus you are disturbing the fitment by taking the timing cover off. The plus side is it can be done without removing too much later if you go that route. I had to replace mine because my serpentine belt shredded and ruined the seal.

I haven't really been on the forums in a while but thought I'd share some advice for anyone wanting to do this in the future.

I am very mechanically inclined and love wrenching on my own cars. This job is just tedious and time-consuming, especially with the motor still in the car. I would see what the machine shop would charge to disassemble/clean the motor, resurface the head and block, and reassemble it with new gaskets and timing chain components. You would source all of the OEM gaskets and timing components for the machine shop. You'd be surprised that it isn't much more of a cost over resurfacing. Turnaround is pretty fast also.

The most difficult part of the project would be removing all of the external components before taking the motor to the machine shop. They just want a block and heads; no manifolds, wiring, hoses, etc. Just make sure to remove the gaskets that you will need from the kit before dropping it off at the machine shop.

I will order one to have on hand.

I just went through the valve grind kit and I am not sure if I know where all of the included o-rings and gaskets go. I'll put up some pictures, maybe you guys can chime in.

I'll bet it is crazy expensive. Especially machine shop labor. I paid over $200 to pressure test and remove 4 studs (for valve covers) from the top of the heads. The resurfacing was $165 which was reasonable. My quote from the machine shop for a valve job was $700 plus and I don't believe that would include parts that would need to be replaced. If I wanted to adjust the valves that would be an additional cost. At that point, you might as well by 2 new heads from Toyota.

Is there anyway to find out what specifically is in the valve grind kit? I can't seem to find detailed information regarding specifics of the contents aside from some generic diagrams.

I attached a few pictures of the parts that are in the kit. I did not include the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, upper intake manifold gaskets or exhaust manifold gaskets. I tried to identify a few of the gaskets.

Any ideas about where to get more information for the kit and / or the seals listed below?

1) ?
2) Gaskets for coolant pipe union in the back of each head.
3) This is 1 of 2 included oil pump gaskets. Need to figure where each of them go.
4) ?
5) 2 of these. I believe these are for the heads. There is one big bolt from each head in the front. I will not be removing those bolts.
6) 4 of these. I believe these are for the heads. There are two bolts on either end of each head near the valves. I will not be removing those bolts.
7) Gasket for oil pan drain bolt ?
8) ?
9) 2 of these. I think these are for the front and back water outlet pipes.
10) Seal that goes in the front of the driver's side head.
11) ?
12) ?
13) ?
14) Fuel injector seals (lower - 6)
15) Fuel injector seals (upper - 6). All I need is 6 not sure what the extra one is for?
16) Front crankshaft seal (I think)
17) Oil fill cap gasket
18) Exhaust gaskets for connection between upper and lower cats (one for each side)

I also don't see the seals that go through the center bolts that hold the valve covers. I think there are o-rings or seals that are on the top of the valve covers were the center bolts go through.

4. Thermostat?

I had leftover parts in my kit as well. I remember too many fuel injector orings I believe as well.

#1 looks like the throttle body gasket (where the throttle body mounts up to the intake manifold. I just replaced mine a few months ago after cleaning the TB.
#4 I think gaber6 is right. I remember it being on the front of the engine and thermostat sounds right.
#7 Yes that's for your oil pan drain plug, the OEM ones are blue on at least one side.
#8 Does this maybe go on the water inlet assembly thing where the thermostat is? The FSM diagram shows the oring for the water pipe and then a second oring behind the "water inlet" where the Tstat is.
#9 I think you're right, those look like the water pipe orings
#11 and #12 look like they could be for the bottom of the oil and transmission dipstick tubes, I didn't remove those when I did this so I can't remember how big they were.
#16 does look like the front crankshaft seal, you should be able to tell by laying it on top of the one that is currently installed to see if they are the same size.
#17 must be the oil filler cap housing gasket, it goes between the oil fill cap tube thing and the valve cover. If you didn't take the oil filler cap housing off the valve cover you wouldn't have seen this.

I don't recall replacing the seals on the valve cover center bolts.

I also had a bunch of leftover orings and gaskets, I just kept them in case I needed them later.

If you have the FSM, look for the section called "Partial Engine Assy (1GR-FE)" and find the components pages, 14-26 through 14-33. You should be able to find all those gaskets and seals in the diagrams.