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Old 11-28-2022, 05:23 PM #91
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I forgot to add, be carefull installing those water pipe orings. They have to stretch a bit to go over the pipe. I would lube them up with soapy water or grease so they don't tear.
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Old 11-29-2022, 09:42 AM #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djpope09 View Post
#1 looks like the throttle body gasket (where the throttle body mounts up to the intake manifold. I just replaced mine a few months ago after cleaning the TB.
#4 I think gaber6 is right. I remember it being on the front of the engine and thermostat sounds right.
#7 Yes that's for your oil pan drain plug, the OEM ones are blue on at least one side.
#8 Does this maybe go on the water inlet assembly thing where the thermostat is? The FSM diagram shows the oring for the water pipe and then a second oring behind the "water inlet" where the Tstat is.
#9 I think you're right, those look like the water pipe orings
#11 and #12 look like they could be for the bottom of the oil and transmission dipstick tubes, I didn't remove those when I did this so I can't remember how big they were.
#16 does look like the front crankshaft seal, you should be able to tell by laying it on top of the one that is currently installed to see if they are the same size.
#17 must be the oil filler cap housing gasket, it goes between the oil fill cap tube thing and the valve cover. If you didn't take the oil filler cap housing off the valve cover you wouldn't have seen this.

I don't recall replacing the seals on the valve cover center bolts.

I also had a bunch of leftover orings and gaskets, I just kept them in case I needed them later.

If you have the FSM, look for the section called "Partial Engine Assy (1GR-FE)" and find the components pages, 14-26 through 14-33. You should be able to find all those gaskets and seals in the diagrams.

Thanks for the response. This really helps. It's good to know that I am not the only one who struggled to identify some of these parts and also to know that others did not use all of them as well. That "Partial Engine Assy (1GR-FE)" section is very helpful. A lot of great info there and it is easy to read and not cluttered up.

I did order a new seal for the oil dipstick tube so I may just end up with an extra one. I have a second parts order that I placed last week which contains the valve lifter that I need plus some new exhaust manifold and valve cover studs.
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Old 11-29-2022, 01:15 PM #93
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I forgot to add in my last post that I had to go out of town for a few weeks so the repair has been on hold. I am hoping to start it back up late next week. A couple of things I have been thinking about since stopping.

1) I need to check the short wiring harness that connects the knock sensors to the back of the motor. I was foolish and unbolted the the water pipe that runs across the intake valley where the sensors are located. I did this in order to help remove the rear water joint from the o-ring. When you do this, it puts a lot of pressure on the harness.

In hindsight, all you need to do is to spray some WD-40 into the front and rear joint to help separate them. Anyway, I will have to test the integrity of the connections at the end of the harness with a multimeter since this part is not currently available from Toyota and is on a nationwide backorder at the moment.


2) Regarding installing the timing cover with the oil pan installed. I believe I watched every related video on YouTube but no one specifically mentions about how to install the FIPG (seal packing) between the bottom of the timing cover and the top of the oil pan. I haven't tried to reinstall the cover yet, but I assume it is has to slide on.

My concern is that if you install the FIPG on the top of the oil pan and then slide the cover over it, doesn't the cover push the FIPG over the oil seal which sits on top of the oil pan?

This seems like you would need to put the FIPG on the bottom of the timing cover in front of the oil seal to avoid this from happening.


3) Maybe this is related to item #2 above, I will be changing the front crankshaft seal, should this be done before or after I install the timing cover? It seems like installing the seal before installing the cover would be easier, but I am not sure if it makes it harder to slide the timing cover since the seal would be new.


I appreciate the feedback as usual.


Last edited by zguy1; 11-29-2022 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 11-29-2022, 02:34 PM #94
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Ha. I was going to bring up the FPIG then this was your latest question.

Take out the 2 studs at the bottom that use nuts and the timing cover will have way more room so you don't have to slide it over the FIPG.

Another note for startup is to remove the fuel relay just so you can have it crank a few times to make sure nothing is wonky. I probably rolled mine over by hand 10 times first double checking then the relay trick. 1st starts on rebuilds are scary.
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Old 11-29-2022, 03:46 PM #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaber6 View Post
Ha. I was going to bring up the FPIG then this was your latest question.

Take out the 2 studs at the bottom that use nuts and the timing cover will have way more room so you don't have to slide it over the FIPG.

Another note for startup is to remove the fuel relay just so you can have it crank a few times to make sure nothing is wonky. I probably rolled mine over by hand 10 times first double checking then the relay trick. 1st starts on rebuilds are scary.
I will try to remove those. I assume they should be easy to remove with the correct e-torx socket considering they are not exposed to any outside elements. Can I assume this method is only possible with the crankshaft seal removed?

I was / am concerned about start-up too, but I figure I would ask about this later. I assume this method will prime the engine with oil as well? If so, is there a way to know that oil has made it through the engine prior actually attempting to starting it?
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Old 11-29-2022, 04:50 PM #96
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#3- Unless I'm mixing the oil seal up with the one I did on a Ford, the crank pulley is what the seal rides on not the crank itself. Easier to do with the cover off in my opinion.

You can see where it rides in the first picture in this thread.
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Old 11-30-2022, 12:44 AM #97
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I didn't concern myself with oil pressure. I'm assuming you have assembly lube or oil on your camshafts and lifters. Other than that, a few seconds without the relay seems to me like it would be enough to determine any noises then bingo bango vroom..

As far as the crankshaft seal, I'd say replace it while you are there. I can't recall if I reinstalled a new one first, but it would make sense to have it in there to center the cover more precisely over the crank.

Last edited by gaber6; 11-30-2022 at 12:49 AM.
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Old 11-30-2022, 11:45 AM #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaber6 View Post
I didn't concern myself with oil pressure. I'm assuming you have assembly lube or oil on your camshafts and lifters. Other than that, a few seconds without the relay seems to me like it would be enough to determine any noises then bingo bango vroom..

As far as the crankshaft seal, I'd say replace it while you are there. I can't recall if I reinstalled a new one first, but it would make sense to have it in there to center the cover more precisely over the crank.
I honestly did not expect to do anything more that what you suggested. I do have some assembly lube and plan to use it when installing the cams.

I would like to install the seal first, but I am not sure if removing the lower studs will put undue pressure on the seal when tilting it in as opposed to sliding it on.
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Old 11-30-2022, 07:27 PM #99
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Nice record of your work. Following
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Old 11-30-2022, 08:30 PM #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67 View Post
#3- Unless I'm mixing the oil seal up with the one I did on a Ford, the crank pulley is what the seal rides on not the crank itself. Easier to do with the cover off in my opinion.

You can see where it rides in the first picture in this thread.
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I just realized that I missed this post yesterday. I looked at the picture you referenced. I think you are right. This would explain why I was able to pry the timing cover from the top during disassembly. There is no way that the crankshaft seal could be oil tight and also allow a considerable amount play when removing the timing cover.

Iíll know once I get back and take a second look. But again, what youíre saying and with the picture shows seems to make sense. If thatís truly the case, then I will be installing the new seal on the timing cover before I install it.

Last edited by zguy1; 12-01-2022 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 12-01-2022, 10:26 PM #101
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So I have been reading the FSM some more and ran into few more things that were a bit unclear.

The FSM refers to two different types of seal packing and Threebond.

1) 08826-00080 (replaced by 00295-00103)
- This appears to be referenced for the oil pan gasket, on the front of the head gaskets, and also on the timing cover. I already have this one.

2) 08826-00100
- This is also referenced when installing the timing cover as well. I'm not sure what the difference is between this one the one above. Specific to the water pump??? I also noticed that the ends of the water pump bolts appeared to have some silicone on the threads. I don't have this yet.

3) 08833-00080, THREE BOND 1344, LOCTITE 242 or equivalent
- Is this blue Loctite?

Appreciate the help...

Here is a pic of the FSM with the reference.
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Old 12-02-2022, 01:35 PM #102
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I think I asked my local dealership about 1 and 2 and they told me to just use 00295-00103 for everything. I do remember that I only used that for the whole timing cover and the water pump parts, but you should probably ask your dealership if no one on here can confirm.

I used blue Loctite for the parts that called for Loctite 242.
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Old 12-08-2022, 09:03 PM #103
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I started working on the truck again today after being out of town for a few weeks.

I cleaned up the cylinder block surface and did some cleaning of the pistons. I used a plastic razor blade and a brass brush along with some brake cleaner. I also wiped the cylinders with some oil. I am not sure how much more I can do without anything more abrasive.

How oil free does the block surface need to be? If I spray down the surface with brake cleaner it will go into the cylinders and remove any oil residue I have applied.

Should I just be using a microfiber towel and apply the brake cleaner to that and then wipe the surface as to avoid overspray into the cylinders?




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Old 12-09-2022, 09:00 AM #104
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keep up the good work, can't wait till you turn it on. i remember last year finally turning mine on, was such an awesome feeling. i had done the same job on the original motor i bought it with and it blew a 100 miles later, luckily got a crate motor during a 25% off parts sale. so got it for under $2700 for the crate. so i now have about 4k miles on it.
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Old 12-09-2022, 05:56 PM #105
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Looks good to me. I don't think you need to have it super clean, mainly smooth surfaces and minimal grease. Someone else will chime in if there's something I'm missing.
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