Quote:
Originally Posted by GoDawgs22
My dad took my 4runner into the Toyota dealership today because I needed a new CV axel (damaged it while on the trails). They got under it and did an inspection and gave him a long list of things they said needed to be fixed. Honestly I don't know too much about these vehicles so I was hoping that someone on here could tell me what my best bet would be to go about fixing these issues -- if I should pay the dealership to do it, fix it myself, or buy aftermarket parts. (I know that aftermarket UCA's are popular, and are a lot less expensive than the factory ones.)
Here is the list they gave me and the cost for them to do it. I have an 09 Trail Edition with 213,000 miles. I have a 3" lift on it (Bilstein 5100 shocks + Old Man Emu springs) and 33" tires. There are no service records for it so the list includes a lot of cleaning and general maintenance
- Replace Both Sides Upper Control Arms (worn out upper ball joints) $1400
- Replace Both Sides Sway Bar Links (torn boots) $413
- 4x4 Alignment $300
- Spark Plug Replacement (due to age and miles) $300
- Front and Rear Differential Gear Oil Exchange $260
- Replace Drive Belt (worn out and cracked) $230
- Brake Fluid Exchange (due to age and miles) $160
- Coolant System Exchange (due to mileage) $170
- Power Steering Fluid Exchange(burned/overheated, reservoir stained) $100
- Transfer Case (Gear Oil Exchange) $130
- Fuel Injector Cleaning Service $110
- Top Induction Platinum Service $150
Totals to about $4500 with tax. Any input would be greatly appreciated, as I am not very experienced with Toyota and trucks in general.
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Wow - If you have the time and are handy at all, I would just do it myself.
1aauto has pretty good youtube videos
1. upper control arms
- easy to replace. I recommend JBA UCA
Toyota 4Runner upper control arms, though theres others You may need a pickle fork or ball joint separator you can rent from autozone
2. sway bar links - super easy to do
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Link 02-09 Toyota 4Runner - YouTube
3. Youll need an alignment (after everything), $300 is a little high, so find a shop you like
4. Spark plugs - easy to do. Generally just get 6 new Denso brand plugs and make sure not to drop anything in when you remove them
5. The differential and transfer case fluids are messy, but easy to do. Just get a good fluid pump for the rear and the font you'll need a large 10 mm hex for the front. Its just as easy as changing your regular oil except awkward to get the fluid in
6. Drive belt should be replaced. Its a pain in the butt, theres a tensioner pully you have to loosen and remember how to snake it back, but cheap to do
7. I dont touch brake fluid because its caustic, so I would let a shop do that, but others do it
8. Power steering fluid is also not too difficult to pump out or drain and replace
9. Fuel injector cleaner - meh. Just pick some up at autozone for $10 and waste your money there as opposed to a shop
10. Did they give you an indication your fuel wasnt pumping through well? see #9. Try seafoam engine cleaner , or just use a top tier gasoline when filling up
None of this is complicated. Can be messy, take some time. Biggest issue will be if you run into a frozen or rusted bolt, such as on the skid plates
Id say prioritize
1. Drive belt
2. Upper control arms
3. You dont really need a sway bar, unless you feel that its rolling when turning, so this isnt an emergency
4. Everything else - just make a list a do it one weekend at a time. None of the rest is emergent
Let us know if you have specific questions about one of the jobs. I guess one of the benefits of being up north is our fluids change themselves when the lines rust through - power steering, brake fluid . . .