OK, I did the first oil change today on my '07 4R with the V8. Let me start by saying I am not an ASE certified mechanic, but I took two years of auto shop in high school and I know how to turn a wrench. Here are a couple of questions, gripes, and observations I've made.

1. Having to take off the skid plate is a little annoying in order to get to the oil filter, but what really bothered me was that I couldn't seem to take it off the drop down hinges without jacking up my car. The beauty of owning an SUV is that you should be able to crawl under it to change the oil with little to no problems and without having to jack it up. Since I couldn't take the skid plate completely off of the car, oil spilled everywhere and all over the top of my skid plate when I took the filter off. I couldn't move the drain pan directly under the oil filter because of the skid plate. Is there a secret to removing the skid plate completely???

2. The skid plate was a b!tch to get back on. It didn't want to line up correctly because of the goofy hinges it has on the front. It's not easy to hold the skid plate up where it needs to be while lining up the wholes for the bolts. Not a big deal though. Like everything, it should be easier the second time around now that I have the hang of it.

3. They apparently have He-Man working in the Toyota factory putting on oil filters. I though everyone (at least everyone who works on cars) knew that you are not supposed to tighten something with a rubber O-ring so frig'n tight. The oil filter does not hold the whole car together!!! The OEM filter does not match the diameter of the Mobil 1 filter I bought either. Even with oil filter pliers it was a pain to get it off. The skid plate in my way didn't help my cause either. Oh well, I hand tightened the new oil filter like you are supposed to and the oil filter socket I bought fits the Mobil 1 filter. Should be a breeze next time.

4. The dip stick is a little difficult to read. After I did my oil change, I ran the engine for a minute and checked the oil to make sure the level was good. On one side between the two dots, it was barely over the minimum dot. But if you looked at the other side, it streaks well above the maximum dot. I'm guessing the lower reading is more accurate and that the other side had some oil get on it while I pulled it out of the engine block. I put in 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 (I think the owners manual calls for 5.9 quarts per oil change). I'm guessing I put the right amount of oil in for the V8 but it seems a little low.

Well that's it. I'm sure it will be much easier and less time consuming next time I change the oil in my rig. Just wandering if you guys had and insight, sort cuts, or tips that might make the process go a little easier.

I have a V6, and I didnt have to take off the skid plate... there was a little plastic piece in the skid plate that pops right out so you can get access to the bolt. As for the oil filter, ya, it was a biotch. But that is really only a one time problem right? And the height does suck. The T4R pretty much REQUIRES a 2/1 lift IMHO.

I have to agree on all points G.I.G. Though I have V-6 and most of above issues I know from reading in this forum; my oil filter was tight as hell. I used strap wrench on it while filter case caved in like an empty beer can. I got it off after brief struggle but I never seen that much torque required to loosen damn oil filter.

Every car I've owned the initial oil change of removing the filter was a bear. There is a 1000lb gorilla that installs oil filters at the engine factory for any make. A Channel-Lock piler is your friend.

Being a V6 owner I cannot sympathize with your oil filter location and skid plate woes. But I can sympathize with the oil filter tightness!! Mine was used and had maybe two oil changes in its life, had about 9K on the odometer when we bought it. I recently changed the oil with Mobil-1 5W30 and a M-1 filter. I have a pair of Snap On oil filter pliers, a strap type oil filter wrench, and a chain type filter wrench. The Snap-On pliers are the most agressive, they bite like no one's business. I ripped four holes in the can of mine getting it off!! But it's not the worst oil filter I've ever done.

Being a small engine mechanic, I work on Lawn and Garden tractors alot. Briggs Intek engines usually have full pressure lube with spin on filter. I had one a couple months ago, that beats all the oil filters I've removed in my 12 years of turning wrenches. I essentially had to completely destroy the filter to get it to come off. I had to collapse the outer shell with huge channel-lok's to fold back the sealing area. Once I got enough of the rubber gasket relieved, it finally broke free. I think it was too tight for sure, and some sort of protectant or coolant from the machining process might have made sort of a "glue" under the seal. Not sure if this is correct or not, just a possibility I had thought of for some of these odd, super difficult to remove filters I've seen. Usually they seem to be the factory installed ones too which makes me believe this could be the case more.

GIG,

You are right on, it is not so easy to change the oil and filter on the V8 equipped 4runners. I changed my oil first time a few months ago. I'm not sure what I did, but I remember the skid plate came off easily. Though I must say I was a little disturbed at having to take it off in the first place. Oil filter was tight as hell, and yes, I also had to use a wrench to get it off.

Hand tightened new oil filter, plate went on easily as well, but again I was wondering if it all was worth my time, vrs taking it to the stealership.

I agree trucks and SUV's you should be able to slide under them without much trouble. It's a very close fit for me to get under my 4runner without jacks. Just wait until you grease the driveshaft!

The dip stick is a little difficult to read I think because of the thin oil the 4runner uses? Also, I don't think 6 quarts is enough oil for the V8. If I remember, I put 7.5 in mine and it was just right at the top level on the dipstick.

I bought 6 oil filters, and enough oil for 6 changes right after I bought my 4runner. So I'm kinda commited now to change it myself 5 more times. But I think after that, I'll let the stealership do it.

I did my V8 for the first time a week ago.

1. Bend the little hinge thingies a little so that the skid plate will go on and off without jacking.

2. OEM filters are always very tight in my experience.

3. 6 quarts ain't enough.

Everything you cited is exactly my experience. This is why I looked into relocating the filter. This is what I ended up doing. Now I just have to reach under the front bumper, without even having to lift the truck.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...=amsoil+bypass

Koz

Thanks for everyone's input.

Koz, that is a badass mod you did with the oil filters. I don't know if I will go to that extreme quite yet but if I can't figure out a way to streamline my oil changes, I might consider that.

I think I am going to bend the hinges like Barefoot suggested in order to take off the skid plate so I don't have to jack up the front end of my car for the next oil change. Once I get the skid plate off, I think that will speed up my oil changes and create less of a mess by putting the drain pan directly under the filter when I change it.

Also, I reread my owners manual and it calls for 6.2 quarts of oil for the V8 when you are changing the filter as well. I checked my oil again this morning (even though the engine was cold and I know it has to be warm for an accurate reading) and it was about half way between the dots on the dipstick. I think I'll put another 1/3 or a 1/2 quart of oil in there like the manual suggests to get it to where it needs to be and call it good. I'll just remember to buy 7 quarts of oil next time I do an oil change.

Even through all of the headaches, I'm glad I did it myself and she's got full synthetic coursing through her veins now.

The Owners manual States in Section 8 - Specifications

2UZ-FE (V-8)
with Filter - 6.2 L; 6.5 Qt; 5.5 Imp qt
Liter, Quart, Imperial Quart

Take a close look at the colum your are reading.

Section 7-2 of the owners manual states, Pg 360

To get a correct reading, the vehicle should be on level ground. After turning off the engine, wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back to the bottom of the engine. (IMO I wait about 10 minutes)

It also states the oil needed to raise the level between low and full on the dipstick is 1.5 liters; 1.6 Imp quarts; 1.3 quarts.


This is all from a 2004 manual so please read your own Carefully when it comes to units of measure. It does not always list them in the same order. See the 2 examples above. They are in the exact order listed in the manual. Both are different.

To much oil can cause problems to. The crank can whip the oil into a froth. If the crank is hitting the oil it is also robbing you of power.

With the bypass system the V8 holds 8 qts.

Koz

Couldn't you guys with V8's just buy a set of ramps and drive up them to drain the oil? In 4 wheel drive it's a snap. The t4r just crawls up the ramp and should make it easy to lower the skid plate. Don't have a V8 so just guessing here.