03-09-2023, 08:34 AM
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#31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MityMax96
Another question, aside from transmission
At times, I am hearing a weird sound....almost like the sound you here when on rumble strips on the interstate.
Also maybe a slight grinding feeling when I hear the sound.
Any ideas what that is?
Axle seal?
Wheel bearing?
I believe it is coming from the rear, not the front
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I’m afraid it may be related to the transmission issue.
Last edited by Bluesky 07; 03-09-2023 at 08:50 AM.
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03-10-2023, 09:44 AM
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#32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07
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Thank you for the thread link
A lot of reading I am doing LOL
But it looks like I will do a drain and fill a few times....
maybe add the Instant Shutter Fix stuff as well....see if that helps it.
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03-11-2023, 05:17 PM
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#33
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Got another question
Happened today.
Driving down the road, I hear a noise.
Not sure how to describe it
But then I start getting a noise after that which is made on every revolution.
So I am thinking CV Axle. Passenger side.
I have a 3" lift up front.
I replaced driver side with a CVJ axle,
I look at passenger side, and both boots are torn.
So I ordered another CVJ Axle today, will replace when it comes in
I look at driver side, and where that axle goes into the housing, I see it is wet around that.
So am I leaking Differential oil there? Could that be the source of the noise?
I do have some 75w-90, so I can always add some in.
How do I know if I overfilled that, or is it possible to overfill?
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03-11-2023, 07:46 PM
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#34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MityMax96
Got another question
Happened today.
Driving down the road, I hear a noise.
Not sure how to describe it
But then I start getting a noise after that which is made on every revolution.
So I am thinking CV Axle. Passenger side.
I have a 3" lift up front.
I replaced driver side with a CVJ axle,
I look at passenger side, and both boots are torn.
So I ordered another CVJ Axle today, will replace when it comes in
I look at driver side, and where that axle goes into the housing, I see it is wet around that.
So am I leaking Differential oil there? Could that be the source of the noise?
I do have some 75w-90, so I can always add some in.
How do I know if I overfilled that, or is it possible to overfill?
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On differentials you fill them until the oil is level with/starting to come out of the "fill" hole.
Smell the "wet" fluid that you see around where the axle goes into the diff, differential fluid/oil has a distinct smell to it so smelling it should tell you if it's gear oil.
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Last edited by AuSeeker; 03-11-2023 at 07:48 PM.
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03-12-2023, 10:58 AM
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#35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
On differentials you fill them until the oil is level with/starting to come out of the "fill" hole.
Smell the "wet" fluid that you see around where the axle goes into the diff, differential fluid/oil has a distinct smell to it so smelling it should tell you if it's gear oil.
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Damn, didn't think of smelling it.
Just did the gear oil change.
And did how you said, fill til it came out the fill hole.
Question on CV axles.
Should there be a little slop/play where the axle goes into the housing?
I am assuming there should be, as it is that way on both axles.
One other question
If I have the front jacked up, and rotate the driver side wheel, at certain points in the revolution, the drive axle will engage and rotate for a bit.
Is that normal?
Last edited by MityMax96; 03-12-2023 at 11:28 AM.
Reason: added question
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03-16-2023, 12:06 PM
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#36
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Before you start taking apart solenoids or otherwise panicking, try this:
Get a can of DeOxit electronics cleaner, and go under the vehicle to the transmission. Driver's side, right around under the pedals. You'll see a white connector on the side of the transmission. This connects the valve body/solenoids with the ECM.
This is in a moisture-attracting area and water likes to wick into that plug and corrode the pins, which then sends bad information between the ECM and Valve body. I had a similar issue to yours going between 1st and 2nd gear a while back. Toyota told me I needed a whole new transmission.
CAREFULLY disconnect this plug and spray both sides of the port -- pins and holes. Then let it sit for an hour to air dry. Then put some dilectric grease on the plug sides to seal moisture out, and reconnect it (again, being careful not to harm the little pins)
Take it for a ride and tell me what happened.
By the way -- not negating the need to change fluid like others have mentioned. That's still important, but try this too.
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03-17-2023, 03:37 PM
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#37
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Follow up with this
Whole issue may have been my front wheel bearings.
Initially started out with the rumble strip sound.....
Eventually I heard a noise, maybe like a pop....
And then sound just got worse
So began to thank rear axle wheel bearing.
Took it to Firestone to be sure and let them diagnose.
Glad I did....
Turned out to be driver side wheel bearing...totally bad, but no wobble with the tire when lifted.
Mechanic said the passenger side was also on the way out the door.
So bought Hub and Bearing assemblies from AutoZone, swapped out both sides.
Truck rides smooth, sounds is gone.
Waiting on my CVJ Axle to come in so I can do the passenger side....
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03-17-2023, 03:38 PM
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#38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montego Murph
Before you start taking apart solenoids or otherwise panicking, try this:
Get a can of DeOxit electronics cleaner, and go under the vehicle to the transmission. Driver's side, right around under the pedals. You'll see a white connector on the side of the transmission. This connects the valve body/solenoids with the ECM.
This is in a moisture-attracting area and water likes to wick into that plug and corrode the pins, which then sends bad information between the ECM and Valve body. I had a similar issue to yours going between 1st and 2nd gear a while back. Toyota told me I needed a whole new transmission.
CAREFULLY disconnect this plug and spray both sides of the port -- pins and holes. Then let it sit for an hour to air dry. Then put some dilectric grease on the plug sides to seal moisture out, and reconnect it (again, being careful not to harm the little pins)
Take it for a ride and tell me what happened.
By the way -- not negating the need to change fluid like others have mentioned. That's still important, but try this too.
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Thanks for this
I will give it a go....
Gotta crawl back under there when my cv axle comes in, so I will see if I can knock it out then.
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03-18-2023, 09:12 AM
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#39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montego Murph
Before you start taking apart solenoids or otherwise panicking, try this:
Get a can of DeOxit electronics cleaner, and go under the vehicle to the transmission. Driver's side, right around under the pedals. You'll see a white connector on the side of the transmission. This connects the valve body/solenoids with the ECM.
This is in a moisture-attracting area and water likes to wick into that plug and corrode the pins, which then sends bad information between the ECM and Valve body. I had a similar issue to yours going between 1st and 2nd gear a while back. Toyota told me I needed a whole new transmission.
CAREFULLY disconnect this plug and spray both sides of the port -- pins and holes. Then let it sit for an hour to air dry. Then put some dilectric grease on the plug sides to seal moisture out, and reconnect it (again, being careful not to harm the little pins)
Take it for a ride and tell me what happened.
By the way -- not negating the need to change fluid like others have mentioned. That's still important, but try this too.
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so i ahve a somewhat similar problem, but in mine..usually happens btw 25 to 40mph, when i try to accelerate, i would be giving it gas...and the truck would not respond, the rev meter would also not go up either, so its a bit confusing if its a fuel delivery issue or transmission issue-- i thought if its transmission related, the rev would go up, while the car refuses to increase speed/change gears.
also that white connector you talked about is a real PITA to acccess, i have tried so many times. next option am considering is to cut up the car sheet metal from the inside and access the connector directly.
what do you think?
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2004 rav4 titanuim silver 4wd auto : pionneer avhx 5500bt hu, pyle reverse cam
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03-18-2023, 09:22 PM
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#40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthrealm
also that white connector you talked about is a real PITA to acccess, i have tried so many times. next option am considering is to cut up the car sheet metal from the inside and access the connector directly.
what do you think?
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I think it's unnecessary. I'm a bigger guy with clumsy arms and I was able to access the connector to do the de-oxit treatment.
Now, don't get me wrong. It's not right out in the open like a lug nut or spark plug, but I think it would be far easier to prop up a flashlight and contort yourself a bit as opposed to removing carpet, cutting a hole, then sealing it back up.
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03-19-2023, 09:23 AM
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#41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthrealm
so i ahve a somewhat similar problem, but in mine..usually happens btw 25 to 40mph, when i try to accelerate, i would be giving it gas...and the truck would not respond, the rev meter would also not go up either, so its a bit confusing if its a fuel delivery issue or transmission issue-- i thought if its transmission related, the rev would go up, while the car refuses to increase speed/change gears.
also that white connector you talked about is a real PITA to acccess, i have tried so many times. next option am considering is to cut up the car sheet metal from the inside and access the connector directly.
what do you think?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montego Murph
I think it's unnecessary. I'm a bigger guy with clumsy arms and I was able to access the connector to do the de-oxit treatment.
Now, don't get me wrong. It's not right out in the open like a lug nut or spark plug, but I think it would be far easier to prop up a flashlight and contort yourself a bit as opposed to removing carpet, cutting a hole, then sealing it back up.
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I agree that it not worth cutting a hole, first off you would have to cut a rather large hole to make it any easier to do from inside the vehicle, you still will have tight access to the connection and then have to bent it all back, tack weld it reseal it, not to mention removing everything to cut the hole and put it back, no way I can see thus being easier then doing it from underneath.
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03-28-2023, 12:15 PM
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#42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MityMax96
Follow up with this
Whole issue may have been my front wheel bearings.
Initially started out with the rumble strip sound.....
Eventually I heard a noise, maybe like a pop....
And then sound just got worse
So began to thank rear axle wheel bearing.
Took it to Firestone to be sure and let them diagnose.
Glad I did....
Turned out to be driver side wheel bearing...totally bad, but no wobble with the tire when lifted.
Mechanic said the passenger side was also on the way out the door.
So bought Hub and Bearing assemblies from AutoZone, swapped out both sides.
Truck rides smooth, sounds is gone.
Waiting on my CVJ Axle to come in so I can do the passenger side....
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And another follow up, to round off this square.
CVJ Axle came in, replaced. So that is all good now.
Did another ATF drain and fill this morning.
Things are running good and as expected.
Initially I posted there was gear slippage when shifting around 40-50mph
Maybe w/ the ATF drain and fills I did as well as the Dr. Transmission (I think it is) stuff, that seems to have taken care of things.
Have a 5 hour road trip coming up this weekend, so I will see how it does.
But after a lot of needed maintenance and repairs done, things are doing good.
I think the next upcoming maintenance will be belts getting replaced.
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05-26-2023, 07:23 AM
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#43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
I agree that it not worth cutting a hole, first off you would have to cut a rather large hole to make it any easier to do from inside the vehicle, you still will have tight access to the connection and then have to bent it all back, tack weld it reseal it, not to mention removing everything to cut the hole and put it back, no way I can see thus being easier then doing it from underneath @Montego Murph .
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Ended up being a cut cable in the transmission harness that plugs in underneath..carefully tripple check the harness again, while trying to unplug it..and found 1 cable cut. guess it was being held up by tiny strands which finally parted.
truck still drives ok . same error code as before...only issue comes up when trying to accelerate from 40mph to 60mph...unresponsive, till i let up on the gas and try slowly again., changing that harness will be a pita
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2004 rav4 titanuim silver 4wd auto : pionneer avhx 5500bt hu, pyle reverse cam
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06-04-2023, 10:18 AM
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#44
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Since you found the broken wire, is there any way you could splice a piece in there to repair it? I mean, the end result can't be any worse than what's happening now.
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06-08-2023, 05:41 PM
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#45
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Check out The Car Care Nut on YouTube.He's a Toyota Master Technician he has some awesome videos.He made one on transmission's you should watch before you decide what to do.
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