Hey everyone.

I'm in the process of replacing my fuel sending unit. All is going well so far. I was able to loosen 5 of the 6 bolts holding the fuel tank protector on. There is one bolt near the front of the protector by the drive shaft. Of all the 6 bolts, that one is not rusted which is a good thing. However, I can not get a socket in there even with a swivel on it. I can only get a 12mm wrench on the head but I can't get any real leverage with such a small wrench. I don't want to round off a perfectly un-rusted bolt due to lack of the proper tools.

I am almost tempted to remove the drive shaft. Looks like 4 bolts on either end will allow it to come off.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

3/8-Inch Drive 12-mm Flare Nut Crowfoot Wrench - think that could fit in there?

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I think I might have one of those. I’ll check tomorrow. I’m thinking a low profile 12 mm socket with a swivel built in is probably what would get the job done without removing the driveshaft. I used a swivel joint with a standard 12 mm socket which is not low profile file by any means.

It's been awhile since I've futzed with mine but I don't remember using anything special other than a long 3/8" extension, maybe a swivel socket too but I don't think so.

I was able to get it off. I ended up lowering the driveshaft by the differential.

Now I am stuck trying to get the fuel tank vent hose off on the top of the tank. I believe I am doing exactly what it says per the FSM.

Any suggestions? I even tried to remove the other end which connects to the canister as it has better access. Still no luck. I am tempted to cut it off and buy another one.

Does it take one of those fuel line disconnect tools? I thought most-ish fuel lines required those for the most part.

I got that hose disconnected. I wish I could tell someone how to do it, but I just pried, pulled and sweared for a few hours.

Also, the fuel tank is held on by two bolts the driver's side and two pins on the passenger side. Do not attempt to remove the two bolts going into the frame. I sprayed them down yesterday with PB Blaster even though they didn't appear to be overly rusted. When I was taking one of them out, the weld inside the frame broke loose. Now I need to fix that issue too. All you need to do is remove the pins and straps will rotate down since they are hinged. Do not foliow the FSM and remove the bolts by the hinges on the driver's side.

Yep, most bolts that go into the frame on midwest domiciled 4Runners are going to break off as they are rust-welded in place.

So true. Same thing happened when I tried to install a hitch a few years ago. I had to cut the bolts out and fish new ones into the frame.

I have the tank out and on the ground. I removed the fuel pump and sending unit. I want to remove the gas I have in there just to make my life easier during installation.

No I just need to figure out how to do that without making a mess. I estimate I have around 5 or so gallons in there.

I hope you're able to get those pins back in without too much trouble. Those straps are generally tight.

Makes sense. I guess the reason why I was able to remove the pins was because both of the bolts on the frame side are partially loose. I had loosened one of the bolts and was working on the second one when I broke the frame nut loose. I actually found a thread were several members were suggesting to spray more penetrating oil into the frame side and also tighten the bolt once you hit resistance during removal even after breaking it loose initially. Mine froze up halfway out and then I hit it with my big impact and the rest is history.

Well, it looks like I have a bit more time on my hands to address the issue with the strap bolts. I was reusing the original retainer and gasket and managed to split the retainer ring during the fuel pump reinstallation.

I just noticed that the SM calls for replacement of both. I was able to get the retainer ring into the 3 o'clock position after 2 rotations but was unable to get it into the 4-5 o'clock position before the ring split.

I ordered a new ring and gasket and should have it by tomorrow. The SM states that you are supposed to use their SST tool for installation but I have read that others have used a flat blade screwdriver. I used a flat blade screwdriver to remove the ring originally.

I hope I don't break the new one tomorrow.

I am going to go into the garage and see about removing the bolt with my Roto zip. Part of me is tempted to leave the loose frozen nut and put the tank back up. It's not like it is going to fall out as the bolt is stuck in the nut and will not loosen on it own.

My straps rusted in half, trying to remove those bolts ripped the piece right off the frame on one of mine because of rust. I had to weld metal to the frame to get it back together.

Maybe on the loose one you could just force a washer or 2 with a bit cut out in between the bolt and the frame. Good luck on this.

I just cut it off. I fished a 40mm M10x1.25 bolt with a washer through the frame. It's a little long but I don't really care. After I put the nut and a washer on it, I will cut a slit in the end of the bolt with a grinder. This will allow me to hold the bolt with a screwdriver so I can tighten the nut. I guess I could always cut the bolt down with a grinder later but I don't think it really matters. I would never be putting a jack or anything under the fuel tank strap anyway.

For those who had their tanks out, how did you deal with any loose rubber tanks pads that sit on the top of the tank? Crazy glue, double sided tape, other adhesive???

Would this loaner kit from Autozone work like the Toyota SST? It looks like the one in the FSM. I am planning on pulling my tank soon and was going to try this kit out to get the retainer ring off.

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...kit/605758_0_0