I should start this by saying I have never as much as touched welding before. Let alone working on an auto frame.
Although I will need to soon, as the frame rail on the right side of my vehicle is corroding into nothingness. And no shop is going to want to touch that frame. This is the biggest issue so far when it comes to bringing this 4runner back to life, and the frame in general is the largest part of the "restoration".
I'm thinking that welding plates over the holes might be the best option. I don't have the money to buy chunks of a frame, or frame caps.
How exactly would one go about that? Where does one start with welding?

Any input is appreciated.

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Should also mention that it's really only this right half of the vehicle that is bad. The rest has rust sure, but, it's only surface and can be knocked off and repainted.

In looking at that, not sure if welding plates on top will do much. Unless the bad parts are cut off and treated, it wont stop. It will just keep taking over. Welding something that would work near that body mount / track bar would be challenging unless you just stick weld something in the holes. However, I am not a welder, so I could be 1000% wrong.

That makes sense. I'm thinking hitting the whole frame with a wire brush on a drill to knock the paint and rust off, then welding the holes/worrisome areas, then repaint the frame and fill the inside of the frame with foam that should dissolve the rust and prevent future rust.
The body mount will definitely be tough.
Thank you for the response!

Those areas of rot are definitely a challenge as you have tough areas to clean and reach. These generally rot from the inside so what you see is the tip of the iceberg so to speak. From what I've seen of the rust I've fixed on mine, a hole the size of a dime ends up being 3" x 6" once you get back to solid metal. You can't weld to metal that is rusted, the rust just blows away. The good thing is the metal, when prepped properly, is pretty easy to weld to. It is about an 1/8" thick so as long as you use similar thickness mild steel you can learn pretty quickly, thin sheet metal is a bit tougher. A decent 110volt wire feed welder with quality welding wire is all it takes. Welding upside down is not so easy though. If this is really something you want to do, buy a welder and practice on metal that is similar thickness. Used welders are fine just don't go too low quality of a brand and pass on stick welders.

My video below gives you an idea of what you are up against on an easier location as it is flat but I still tough as it's upside down. The hole was pretty small when I found it but after some tapping with a pointy hammer I found it was not so small.

03 4Runner Frame Rust Repair! - YouTube

So I looked at this closer and it looks like 2 of the pictures are from the same area. If you really need this car to last a while I would save up for one of the caps below assuming that's the correct one. It will cover both spots.

You really need to check the rest of the frame first though. Front by the tow points, back corners behind the plastic bumper and anywhere else that looks soft. Usually at the bottom of the frame arches.

Mid Frame Section w/ Trailing Arm Mount (ART-202-R) Passenger Side - autorust.com

MikeinNH pretty much covered it. Keep in mind the new plates you weld in will be uncoated on the inside. Once in place, the issue will keep happening unless you live in a dry area or are able to paint the inside of the frame. It will definitely buy you more time with the rig though.

Toyota sells a plastic plug kit for the frame, p/n 04002-07104, for about $25.
I have it and plan on installing them with RTV to weather proof them in place. My frame has two plates welded in below passenger side front door at $1K cost ... not cheap unless you can weld yourself.

I wonder why if Toyota thought it was a good idea to offer this plug kit, why didn't they just install these plugs from the factory??

It would be a great idea to do it when the frame is still new but after the insides gets filled with water and road salts and all kinds of other debris it would be kinda of a little too late!!!

That being said, that kit is now over $40-$45

safeTcap is the way to go. i did my whole passenger side about a year and half ago and then re-coated the end product with rustoleum again. absolutely no issues since. $2200 for the side. i would do the driver side but its getting ready to be sold here soon.

Dealership Parts guy was happy with a Toyota number to look up. He said it was on the East Coast and $60+ to ship to me.
Any other options to try??
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2007 SE V6 Titanium less than 50K

Makes you wonder if maybe toyota knew about the frames beforehand. I'll pick up those frame plugs once I get it together this summer.

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sorry...from the few pictures of the body mount/link mount this is on the verge of failing as-is and I'm struggling seeing being able to easily save this... you're certainly not just welding some plates over top of any of this.. you're looking at having to cut out and remake those portions of frame.. honestly.. if this was mine and I wanted to save the rig long term, I would probably be searching for a totaled 4th gen you can swap the frame off of.. hour wise you're probably not far between the amount of work between the 2