OK, it shows that they did indeed replace the entire assembly.

Usually the only parts that need replacing are the electric motor, the accumulator and sometimes the ABS pump, but usually it's only the electric motor that wears out for the most part.

Most all Toyota dealerships and I would assume smaller garages will only replace the entire assembly because by the time you purchase the motor, accumulator and possibly the pump it will cost you more than buying the entire assembly plus more labor as well.

By the way the previous owner paid the going discounted price for the new assembly, so she didn't get ripped off, unless it was on the labor to install it.

My best guess is if you fix the leak you found and get all the air out of the system it should work as it should.

That all being said if I were you I would plan on replacing all the metal brake lines at some point, just looking at the "leak" photo tells me the rest of the metal brake lines are very rusted and could at some point burst and leave you without brakes again and most likely when you least expect it, it could be a very dangerous event!!

For the most part replacing these brake lines is not that hard to do, the hardest ones to get too are where they run behind the gas tank, to remove the old ones you need to remove the gas tank, but I wouldn't brother removing them just fish the new lines in that area and leave the old ones in place.

When operating normally the motor should come on for about 10 to 15 seconds when you turn on the ignition after being off for several hours or overnight, and then again about every 3rd depression of the brake pedal when the vehicle is running.

What is likely happening is the leak you discovered is for the rear brake line and is losing pressure causing the pump motor to operate to build up pressure again.

"I filled it up last night, and the pedal doesn't push to the floor nor is the master cylinder seeming to lose fluid. But the warning signal is blaring, and I have all the the Brake-VSC Trac-ABS lights on."

You're saying here the brakes are functioning correctly right?? With all the dash lights on. After replacing that entire unit the VCS module that controls all your traction control and vehicle stabilization needs to be calibrated (zero point calibration). Those functions will be disabled until then.

Fayetteville, Arkansas! I lived in Little Rock for four years When we first began to tear into this truck on Saturday- the brake master cylinder was completely empty- but the truck still had a fairly firm pedal. We added brake fluid and slowly drove it up and down the street. When we checked the brake fluid level there was not a noticeable difference. But this afternoon the levels were down and I noticed the small leak at a brake line junction point over the back of the fuel tank. I think this leak is the main brake issue. I'm hoping that once we figure out a way to safely fix this/these leaks. The alarm noise will go off and some of the Christmas tree of lights will turn off on the dash... here's for hoping Thank you

To replace all the lines would you use a break line kit like this one?

Amazon.com

Something more ridged/heavy duty?

AuSeeker- this makes sense- and is hopeful news for my son who looks like he's going to have a heart attack every time we discover something new that we need to buy to get this car on the road… Lol. Although he shouldn't feel too bad… We promised to help with $1000 for his first car... he got this one for $900

Yes!, Right on the edge of the spectacular Ozarks national forest where my runner and I live half our life!
Definitely need to fix the leak. Weird that when driving with the system pressurized not much fluid is lost.. Typically a low fluid level will only display and abs light. All the other lights indicate your VSC module has been disabled. Pulling the trouble codes would be helpful...

That tubing will work fine....BUT first the fittings are SAE thread, you need metric fittings, second is it's only "copper" coated, which means it's steel tubing with a thin coating of copper and can still rust if the copper get scratched, most people here like to use a copper/nickel tubing and stainless steel fittings and neither will never rust but cost about 1/3 to twice as much more.

Also you will still need the flaring tool...but if you check at some of the auto parts stores in your area many of them have a "tool loan" program where you pay the going price for a tool from their loan program and when you bring it back you get a full refund of your money, so it's free to borrow the tool in the end.

great thoughts- will do. thank you