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Old 10-27-2023, 09:58 AM #1
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Replacing brake fluid proper way

Hi,
I am going to just replace the brake fluid in the system.
Is the procedure from the Haynes manual for bleeding brake system the right way to do it?
I.e:
- (Front), ignition ON, wait for the pump motor to stop, pump pedal several times, depress pedal, bleed
- (Rear), ignition ON, depress pedal, bleed
- engine OFF, pump pedal 40 times to remove boost pressure
- done

I did it a few years ago when servicing calipers. Now I just want to replace the fluid. No air was entered in the system.

How much DOT3 will be sufficient?
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Old 10-27-2023, 07:16 PM #2
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Check the brake section of the stickies thread below. Good stuff in there.

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Old 10-27-2023, 08:51 PM #3
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The brake pumping method is very labor intensive and takes a long time to purge the entire system. If you do go that way, slide your other foot under the brake pedal so you don't depress it to the floor. Piston travel on an older master cylinder beyond normal range can damage the seals. I would recommend, however, the use of a pressure (Motive) or vacuum (MityVac Air Compressor Powered) bleeder if you are going to be doing this occasionally. It turns the process into a quicker, one person job. FYI, brake fluid should be flushed every 2-3 years as it picks up moisture.
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Old 11-01-2023, 11:11 PM #4
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Iíll second the Motive pressure bleeder, but I use it with a PowerProbe adapter cap. Itís milled and anodized and really nice. I tried a vacuum bleeder but it always left a soft pedal.
IDK about the 4Runner specifically, but Iíve always bled my brakes starting with the caliper furthest from the MC, and working my way back.
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Old 11-04-2023, 08:58 AM #5
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me personally, I choose to vacuum out the front driver side first, this way I can refill with fresh fluid since all the old stuff is not going through the lines the long way.

just keep and eye and not to empty out the reservoir.
buy more fluid than you actually need. I bought me a case of 12 AMSOIL since
I maintain 3 vehicles. also when I changed the rear lines, I used the truck booster to help push fluid through, only do it in 20 seconds interval. you'll see how fast fluid can come out and how nasty it was if you don't flush it often.

If you choose to do the pedal method by yourself. submerge one end of hose in clean fluid. those 20 or bigger size gatorade bottle works. also put a very tiny hole on the cap so you don't have the bottle explode from pressure.

you can also was that toyota tim guy youtube where he did that lexus gx.
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Old 11-05-2023, 08:03 PM #6
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I plan on flushing my brake fluid pretty soon. I have a Schwaben brake bleeder, would I need to turn truck's power to position II when bleeding the rear brakes?
This bleeder is a one person operation and no brake pressing is needed to drain system.
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Old 11-05-2023, 09:16 PM #7
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as long you get a good seal at the reservoir with your pressure bleeder, keys is always in the off positions. pressure and vacuum method, key is always off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbanite View Post
I plan on flushing my brake fluid pretty soon. I have a Schwaben brake bleeder, would I need to turn truck's power to position II when bleeding the rear brakes?
This bleeder is a one person operation and no brake pressing is needed to drain system.
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Old 11-13-2023, 05:02 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riceandpho View Post
as long you get a good seal at the reservoir with your pressure bleeder, keys is always in the off positions. pressure and vacuum method, key is always off.
How much brake fluid should I plan on having for the entire flushing operation?
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Old 11-13-2023, 07:22 PM #9
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buy 4 32oz bottles and return the unused bottles later on. otherwise do maintenance on your other vehicles at the same time. fluid is cheap.
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Old 11-22-2023, 10:11 AM #10
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I did it manually without any problems as described in the service manual and Haynes.
Used that simple and cheap bleeding kit with one way valve at the end of the tubing.
I could theoretically do it just myself but had an 8 year old helper pumping the pedal It took up about 1 liter of fluid.
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Old 11-22-2023, 05:31 PM #11
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I'm a little late to the party but I also second the Motive power bleeder plus the optional Toyota cap adapter deal.

Secondly, you can use Techstream to have the ABS bleed the system for you. It's quite easy and it helps to have someone tell you what the software is saying while you operate the bleed nipples. Things like "move to the driver rear, now open the valve, now close the valve, etc".

I buy quart size bottles of brake fluid for this purpose. I have no problem going through an entire bottle of it per vehicle just to assure that I've done a good job of replacing all of the nasty old fluid!!!

Good luck.

Toyota cap adapter
Amazon.com
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Old 11-22-2023, 10:58 PM #12
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I ran into a problem with my Schwaben brake bleeder. The Master Cylinder adapter that came with the kit did not fit, too small, fits European but not Japanese. Does anyone know if this adapter would fit? I'm willing to pay to get it if it fits, but not $50 which is the price of the entire Schwaben kit, lol

Amazon.com

Last edited by Urbanite; 11-22-2023 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 11-23-2023, 09:37 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
Iíll second the Motive pressure bleeder, but I use it with a PowerProbe adapter cap. Itís milled and anodized and really nice. I tried a vacuum bleeder but it always left a soft pedal.
IDK about the 4Runner specifically, but Iíve always bled my brakes starting with the caliper furthest from the MC, and working my way back.
Which model power probe bleader cap did you buy that fits our 4th gens? BA10?
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Old 11-23-2023, 06:08 PM #14
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Old 11-25-2023, 09:23 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbanite View Post
I ran into a problem with my Schwaben brake bleeder. The Master Cylinder adapter that came with the kit did not fit, too small, fits European but not Japanese. Does anyone know if this adapter would fit? I'm willing to pay to get it if it fits, but not $50 which is the price of the entire Schwaben kit, lol

Amazon.com
I'm not familiar with the item you mentioned but looking at the pics, it looks to be a screw on type which isn't something we can use for Toyotas. Take a look at my post with the link. I'm not saying you have to purchase it but see how the adapter cap works? I think you need a style that attaches the cap to the reservoir housing lip in a specific way. Mine is $50 so it's a hefty price tag but given that I have three toyotas, it's an investment I was willing to make for years of service.
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