I'm sure this topic has been beat to death, but wanted to hear some advice. I recently had 5100s and OME 885 front springs and 895 rear springs installed. Provides a 2.5-inch front lift and 1.5-inch rear lift. Also installed new 275/70/17 tires.

I had them install new UCAs and LCAs, though they are NOT aftermarket, just replaced with stock, non-rusted, options.

It was installed at a 4x4 shop and when they were done, they completed an alignment. The tech said he got it as close as he could within spec while also trying to save on the handling. He did note the camber was a little off so I might notice some slight premature wear on the outer edge of the front tires, but said it was small enough to not be a concern with normal rotations.

After the lift has settled over the last couple months and 500+ miles I took my 4Runner back to the shop to have them perform a complimentary look over/re-torque/test drive to make sure everything was still good to go. I thought maybe they would realign it now that it settled to bring the camber in, but they said all was well and looked good.

I guess my question is, do these alignment specs seem okay?

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My guess and I'm no alignment pro is that the truck probably drives fine. What I'm concerned about would be the camber numbers which ultimately will wear your tires unevenly. And the castor numbers being that low (won't effect tire wear). As long as nothing is bent like the spindles then those numbers should be able to be closer to zero. Also the alignment machine highlighting those as "red" are calling them out as being out of spec.

I'd take it to another alignment shop, the caster numbers are off quite a bit.

They tried to give you as much "in spec" camber as possible to get you closer to spec on caster. I don't think this is good. If you have a more aggressive tread pattern tire, you will notice the outside tread lugs beginning to feather over time even rotating every 5k. Ask me how I know.

I would bring it back and tell them to set the camber to 0 or -.1 whichever they can get. The caster will be really low and it make take a little more correcting on the highway. You will need aftermarket UCA's to get in spec caster. I've been fighting all of this recently and I just bought a set of freedom offroad UCAs to fix it. I also have less front lift that you.

Appreciate you all! Gonna get another alignment and let them know what I want. Glad I asked.


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What is concerning to me is your rear toe. Granted the rear is not adjustable but tor left wheel has negative toe (pointing out) and the right wheel is pointing in ( positive toe). Basically you are having rear steer to the left and they are way off. I would check your bushings, track bar, control arms, diff housing. Something is bent bad.

Here is what I learned when doing alignments:

"All wheels are adjusted to the center of the vehicle by measuring the rear axle positioning first followed by the measuring of the front angles. This ensures that your vehicle is centered accurately.

The rear-end alignment is a more precise, accurate, and true to vehicle specifications process than the front-end alignment."

If your rear is not right, your front won't be.

There's not much room for caster adjustment via lca's with that much lift. With the proper upper control arms this will correct your castor. Actually if you've lifted correctly you shouldn't even have to touch the lca alignment tabs. Toe is all you should need to adjust.

you can tell them nicely to get the caster to 3.

I have 5100 at 0.85 and moog fj springs, stock upper and lower control arms.
I tell them to get the caster to 3 and my final number is 3.1 and 3.3.

my last alignment was 3.0 and 2.9, also before all the inner and outer tie rod ends replaced along with new cv axels. truck still drove fine, but it also wander sometimes due to worn parts, I had 221k at the time. which was 2 - 3 months ago.