11-19-2023, 08:10 AM
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#1
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Converting bolt-on rock sliders to weld-on
I picked up some caliraised rock sliders for a great price but ideally I think I’d eventually want them welded on.
If I had them welded on, any suggestions on how I should modify them? Should the mounting plates be cut so that the mounting brackets look more like typical weld-on style brackets? Small squares or diamond shaped plates at the end of the arms.
There are some good looking gussets already on all the arms. So I would definitely retain those Pics here
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Silver 05’ 4Runner V8 4.7L Sport, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Dobinsons C59-314B front springs, Dobinsons Aluminum Billet UCA’s, Superpro offset LCA’s, OCD sway bar endlinks, Toytec Superflex RCC2.0-P rear springs, Cooper Discoverer A/T 3 285/70/17 tires, SCS Blaze 10 Wheels with -10mm offset, and lots of plans for future mods…
Last edited by Hitmanhink; 11-19-2023 at 11:46 AM.
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11-19-2023, 11:02 AM
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#2
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Any suggestions?
@ Caliraisedled
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Silver 05’ 4Runner V8 4.7L Sport, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Dobinsons C59-314B front springs, Dobinsons Aluminum Billet UCA’s, Superpro offset LCA’s, OCD sway bar endlinks, Toytec Superflex RCC2.0-P rear springs, Cooper Discoverer A/T 3 285/70/17 tires, SCS Blaze 10 Wheels with -10mm offset, and lots of plans for future mods…
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11-19-2023, 04:59 PM
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#3
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I would cut the bottom lip off and weld in the side plates as is. No need for the bottom lip if it's all welded on.
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11-19-2023, 10:31 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d33pt
I would cut the bottom lip off and weld in the side plates as is. No need for the bottom lip if it's all welded on.
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this was my thought too. if nothing else just bolt then weld them on? i mean why not?
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2007 Limited V8 | 5100s & OME 3" lift
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11-20-2023, 05:35 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taxzz
this was my thought too. if nothing else just bolt then weld them on? i mean why not?
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Why not just bolt them on though? Do you think it's not as strong? I've beat my bolt on ones for 15 years now with no issues.
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11-21-2023, 08:38 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d33pt
Why not just bolt them on though? Do you think it's not as strong? I've beat my bolt on ones for 15 years now with no issues.
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I will probably run them as bolt on for a while to start, but eventually I think I’d like to weld them on. Everything I’ve read about rock sliders suggests weld on are better for actual rock sliding and that they can take more of the weight of the vehicle on a rock compared to bolt-ons.
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Silver 05’ 4Runner V8 4.7L Sport, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Dobinsons C59-314B front springs, Dobinsons Aluminum Billet UCA’s, Superpro offset LCA’s, OCD sway bar endlinks, Toytec Superflex RCC2.0-P rear springs, Cooper Discoverer A/T 3 285/70/17 tires, SCS Blaze 10 Wheels with -10mm offset, and lots of plans for future mods…
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11-21-2023, 01:09 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitmanhink
I will probably run them as bolt on for a while to start, but eventually I think I’d like to weld them on. Everything I’ve read about rock sliders suggests weld on are better for actual rock sliding and that they can take more of the weight of the vehicle on a rock compared to bolt-ons.
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Not if they are designed right and bolted up with appropriate hardware. I trust my life to my sliders. I put my jackstands under them and work on the truck with no worries.
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11-22-2023, 05:43 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitmanhink
I will probably run them as bolt on for a while to start, but eventually I think I’d like to weld them on. Everything I’ve read about rock sliders suggests weld on are better for actual rock sliding and that they can take more of the weight of the vehicle on a rock compared to bolt-ons.
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I question this statement because I am on my fourth vehicle with bolted on sliders that I built, and there have been zero failures.
So, let's dissect this a tad, if you'll indulge me. Should we weld on to frames? I suppose that's ok if this is a rock buggy but for the rest of us, nah, you shouldn't be welding on to chassis frames as that *might* change the metallurgical properties around the weld area. I'm sure I'm splitting hairs at this point!
Secondly, unless your vehicle is dropping down 12" or greater on to a rock, I don't think a properly mounted set of sliders will fail. If that was the case, I think you'd have to wear mouth guard like a football player to prevent your teeth from breaking! The 4runner in the pic doesn't look like it's a rock crawler as she's too purdy.
Thirdly, the "arms" may flex a little on severe impact and you WANT that to happen vs translating all of that force to your chassis.
Fourthly, removing sliders for exhaust work is quite lovely if they're in the way.
Anyway, just my .02 cents worth.
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11-23-2023, 10:34 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alia176
I question this statement because I am on my fourth vehicle with bolted on sliders that I built, and there have been zero failures.
So, let's dissect this a tad, if you'll indulge me. Should we weld on to frames? I suppose that's ok if this is a rock buggy but for the rest of us, nah, you shouldn't be welding on to chassis frames as that *might* change the metallurgical properties around the weld area. I'm sure I'm splitting hairs at this point!
Secondly, unless your vehicle is dropping down 12" or greater on to a rock, I don't think a properly mounted set of sliders will fail. If that was the case, I think you'd have to wear mouth guard like a football player to prevent your teeth from breaking! The 4runner in the pic doesn't look like it's a rock crawler as she's too purdy.
Thirdly, the "arms" may flex a little on severe impact and you WANT that to happen vs translating all of that force to your chassis.
Fourthly, removing sliders for exhaust work is quite lovely if they're in the way.
Anyway, just my .02 cents worth.
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Thanks, yea this is all part of the reason why I brought it up. There are a lot of opinions on it. For how my truck is built now.. yea weld on would be unnecessary. But “eventually” I want to build it out more for rock crawling… right now she’s a grocery getter, mall-runner (not even a mall-crawler lol).
After rock sliders I’m getting beefier tires, then finishing my homemade Sherpa style roof rack. Further down the road I’ll be looking at skids and bumpers with a more complete suspension upgrade probably sticking with Dobinsons. Once I get skids and bumpers maybe it’ll be time to look at the rock sliders again and consider welding them on if I still want to do some heavier rock crawling’. And maybe I’ll look at mouth guard too lol gotta protect my perlee whites
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Silver 05’ 4Runner V8 4.7L Sport, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Dobinsons C59-314B front springs, Dobinsons Aluminum Billet UCA’s, Superpro offset LCA’s, OCD sway bar endlinks, Toytec Superflex RCC2.0-P rear springs, Cooper Discoverer A/T 3 285/70/17 tires, SCS Blaze 10 Wheels with -10mm offset, and lots of plans for future mods…
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11-23-2023, 11:22 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Nov 2019
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Real Name: Todd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alia176
I question this statement because I am on my fourth vehicle with bolted on sliders that I built, and there have been zero failures.
So, let's dissect this a tad, if you'll indulge me. Should we weld on to frames? I suppose that's ok if this is a rock buggy but for the rest of us, nah, you shouldn't be welding on to chassis frames as that *might* change the metallurgical properties around the weld area. I'm sure I'm splitting hairs at this point!
Secondly, unless your vehicle is dropping down 12" or greater on to a rock, I don't think a properly mounted set of sliders will fail. If that was the case, I think you'd have to wear mouth guard like a football player to prevent your teeth from breaking! The 4runner in the pic doesn't look like it's a rock crawler as she's too purdy.
Thirdly, the "arms" may flex a little on severe impact and you WANT that to happen vs translating all of that force to your chassis.
Fourthly, removing sliders for exhaust work is quite lovely if they're in the way.
Anyway, just my .02 cents worth.
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Some misinformation here and lack of actual knowledge.
Welding to the frame will in no way "change the metallurgical properties around the weld area". Welds, when done properly, are stronger than the metal they are being welded to. This doesn't mean the original metal is weakened by the weld at all.
Welded sliders allow for better ground clearance in that they leave the bottom of the frame clean. This also allows the frame itself to slide off rocks, instead of getting hung up on the bolted on sliders.
Welded frame sliders will still flex and it will not hurt the frame in any way. The frame is fully boxed and very, very strong, unless it's already rusted out.
4Runner exhausts run on the inside of the frame. If you feel that removing your sliders is needed for exhaust work, then you have a custom exhaust or just haven't worked on your 4runner exhaust yourself ever. Rock sliders will never get in the way of your exhaust for working on it otherwise.
Bolt on sliders are fine but for any serious rock crawling, you really do want weld on sliders. Bolts can loosen up over time and with enough hits to the sliders. Welds don't care.
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FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
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11-23-2023, 04:04 PM
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#11
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Weld-on would be fine. After all, they're already welded to the mounting plates.
Me personally, I'm satisfied with them bolted on.
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