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Old Yesterday, 09:35 PM #211
werminghausen werminghausen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker View Post
I just finished installing the ABS/master cylinder assembly, so far so good, I only bled the master cylinder at this point and the brakes are pretty good.

It took several minutes to get the alarm to stop, the electric motor on my assembly seems to only run for about 5 seconds then stops for about 5 seconds and then runs again for 5 seconds, this continued for at least 10 cycles before the alarm stopped, I then depressed the pedal about 7 to 8 times and the alarm returned...but only for about 5 to 10 seconds, after that I couldn't get the alarm to trigger even after over 20 depressions of the pedal, I'll report back later as to how many depressions it takes to get the motor to trigger again.

I will at a later date do a full 4 wheel bled and also use my new scanner to bleed the ABS system and post if any improvement over how the brakes work now.

As mentioned it was straightforward to do the R&R....but I would say it was far from easy getting to the 4 nuts under the dash and I have cuts and scrapes to prove it!!

I did have to remove the screws/bolts/nuts for the fuse block and a couple of brackets to gain better access to the master cylinder nuts, I only lost one nut that fell down between the seat and console apparently never to be seen again, I spend close to an hour trying to find it using a magnet and my arms, but no luck, I did however find all the other numerous items I have dropped down there over the last few years!!
Congrats Au,
I had the same experience removal and installation when I did it the first time. Second and third time you already know... much faster.
Best to have the most flexible extrension for these 4 buggers and a good head lamp.
The running of the motor for the new unit was the same in my case.

I did perform the master cylinder bleeding but did not do the calipers. I did the calipers extensively with no positive outcome for the softness of the brake.

I have the car on the lift now and want to go through all calipers, see if I can see any problems during resealing. I will check if some are stuck or any other issues with them. if I don't find any obvious problem with these calipers I am at a loss what can cause this bad brake performance with a brand new hydro booster unit.
(remember I had squishy brakes weeks before I had the brake incident with the alarm. So I am not surprised that this issue did not go away if it was caused by something else than the hydro booster)

Au, can you report from your bleeding experience with the new scan tool you bought? Did I understand correctly that the scanner is doing all the tricks to bleed brakes without removing the air through cracked lines like during manual bleeding? How the heck does this work? Where is the air going?

Martin
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Old Yesterday, 10:01 PM #212
AuSeeker AuSeeker is online now
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AuSeeker AuSeeker is online now
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Join Date: Nov 2016
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Real Name: Skip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by werminghausen View Post
Congrats Au,
I had the same experience removal and installation when I did it the first time. Second and third time you already know... much faster.
Best to have the most flexible extrension for these 4 buggers and a good head lamp.
The running of the motor for the new unit was the same in my case.

I did perform the master cylinder bleeding but did not do the calipers. I did the calipers extensively with no positive outcome for the softness of the brake.

I have the car on the lift now and want to go through all calipers, see if I can see any problems during resealing. I will check if some are stuck or any other issues with them. if I don't find any obvious problem with these calipers I am at a loss what can cause this bad brake performance with a brand new hydro booster unit.
(remember I had squishy brakes weeks before I had the brake incident with the alarm. So I am not surprised that this issue did not go away if it was caused by something else than the hydro booster)

Au, can you report from your bleeding experience with the new scan tool you bought? Did I understand correctly that the scanner is doing all the tricks to bleed brakes without removing the air through cracked lines like during manual bleeding? How the heck does this work? Where is the air going?

Martin
Martin,

No the scanner doesn't bleed the brakes for you, you do have to open the bleeder valves, the scanner is for only bleeding the ABS system by triggering the ABS valves to open to get air out of the valve body and then you do the regular bleeding again to remove the air, the only other way that it is said to get the air out of the ABS system is to do several hard braking sequences on a dirt road, snow or wet road to get the wheels to lock up and trigger the ABS system to activate and thus push the air from the valve body, I don't know if that truly works or not but several members here have reported it worked for them, either way you still have to manually bleed the lines again after to remove any air that may have been in the ABS system, I would think just bleeding the master cylinder again would remove this air, so that how I would proceed, do the ABS bleed, master cylinder bleed and then finally the 4 wheels.

That being said as I mentioned I haven't bled the ABS system yet using the scanner or otherwise, all I did was bleed the master cylinder by loosening the 4 brake lines at the master cylinder while my son worked the brake pedal.

The brake pedal seems to have to travel a tiny bit further than it did before the R&R before any braking action becomes apparent...but when the braking action starts it's much much better than it was before the R&R and the pedal is firm at that point.
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