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Old 12-17-2023, 02:23 PM #16
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At that mileage, I would also recommend changing the LBJs. They are most likely worn out too. I bought Pro forged from rockauto but Im not sure they still sell them. Made in USA and million mile warranty. This thread was helpful.

proforged LBJ

How I replaced lower ball joints on FJ | Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

Here is a good thread on replacing the front wheel bearings.
front hub bearing R&R

Orig thread minus pictures. *How to* - front wheel bearing replacement | TTORA Forum

Look for made in Japan like NSK bearings rockauto $56 each

2007 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Wheel Bearing | RockAuto
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Old 12-18-2023, 12:15 AM #17
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@R4Adventure Its 150 and not 250 ft. lbs. My bad, a senior moment. Apologies.

@d33pt No specs for the 4 bolts. Space is limited to only a 17mm box wrench to undo/install.
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Old 12-18-2023, 01:15 AM #18
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@R4Adventure Its 150 and not 250 ft. lbs. My bad, a senior moment. Apologies.

@d33pt No specs for the 4 bolts. Space is limited to only a 17mm box wrench to undo/install.
I guess those bolts are not that important? Since the whole thing is held in by the big center nut.
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Old 12-18-2023, 12:42 PM #19
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I guess those bolts are not that important? Since the whole thing is held in by the big center nut.
No! the 4 bolts hold the bearing & wheel hub assembly to the knuckle assembly and must be tightened.
Just that the wheel hub/bearing unit are such closely joined together that these bolt heads accessibility are very restricted and only a box wrench can fit over them. Even then as you undo the bolts, it can only move out a little and the whole hub/bearing unit has to move out with it i.e. away from the knuckle assembly.
These 4 bolts cannot be removed/separated completely from the hub/bearing unit ( unless the hub and bearing are separated with a press).
If you check RockAuto catalogue for this hub/bearing unit it'll be easier to visualize. Note: two types of front wheel bearing/hub units. The 4x4 and the RW drive only are not the same and not interchangeable.

The bearing and the wheel hub if bought separately will require a shop press to join them together with the 4 bolts already in place in the bearing flange.
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Old 12-18-2023, 05:47 PM #20
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I guess those bolts are not that important? Since the whole thing is held in by the big center nut.
Those bolts are super important, the big center nut only holds the CV in place unlike cars of old and trailers.

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No! the 4 bolts hold the bearing & wheel hub assembly to the knuckle assembly and must be tightened.
Just that the wheel hub/bearing unit are such closely joined together that these bolt heads accessibility are very restricted and only a box wrench can fit over them. Even then as you undo the bolts, it can only move out a little and the whole hub/bearing unit has to move out with it i.e. away from the knuckle assembly.
This is where a geared box end wrench shines.
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Old 12-18-2023, 06:10 PM #21
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Got it done! With it being a rust free truck, everything just fell off when I loosened the bolts. Didn't have to fight the rotor, or hub, or CV.

I got those 4 bolts as tight as I could with an extra long box wrench.

The worst part of the job was getting the new knuckle seal in. Toyota wanted $60 for one! So I got the Napa seal. It was a pain in the ass to get in and hopefully I didn't damage the sealing surface. It has a spring in it, so hopefully that will keep it tight.

Thank you all for the tips. It was actually pretty straight forward, but seemed a lot harder on paper.

I got a pair of pressed hubs, so I'll do the other side at some point. Just not an emergency since it's still tight.
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Old 12-18-2023, 08:24 PM #22
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@d33pt Good job, bud !! Now treat yourself to several beers. Cheers.
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Old 12-18-2023, 09:49 PM #23
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I shouldn't need an alignment right? I might get one anyway since it was so loose before. Any previous alignment wouldn't have been accurate anyway. But I shouldn't need one after doing the other side in the future?
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Old 12-18-2023, 10:32 PM #24
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The 4 bolts that hold the bearing to knuckle are torqued to 59Ft# but its impossible to use a torque wrench even with a crows foot. Use red loctite and tighten it as much as you can.
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Old 12-19-2023, 05:09 PM #25
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I shouldn't need an alignment right? I might get one anyway since it was so loose before. Any previous alignment wouldn't have been accurate anyway. But I shouldn't need one after doing the other side in the future?
I wouldn't bother unless you see abnormal wear or steering off. Any good alignment shop should notice a bearing that is that loose but that doesn't say much.
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Old 12-21-2023, 10:49 AM #26
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Got it done! With it being a rust free truck, everything just fell off when I loosened the bolts. Didn't have to fight the rotor, or hub, or CV.

I got those 4 bolts as tight as I could with an extra long box wrench.

The worst part of the job was getting the new knuckle seal in. Toyota wanted $60 for one! So I got the Napa seal. It was a pain in the ass to get in and hopefully I didn't damage the sealing surface. It has a spring in it, so hopefully that will keep it tight.

Thank you all for the tips. It was actually pretty straight forward, but seemed a lot harder on paper.

I got a pair of pressed hubs, so I'll do the other side at some point. Just not an emergency since it's still tight.
Job well done. You saved a lot of money and have more experience now. That's a win win in my book.

My 4Runner is also rust free. That made a tremendous difference. My buddy's Tacoma was not, and it was a bit more challenging.

For future reference, the Napa seal is ok but there are plenty of online Toyota dealers that sell OEM parts at a reduced cost. I buy a lot of my parts from Olathe Toyota Parts Center

Also, you can usually find Timken seals on Amazon or at other locations. Timken is an OEM supplier and usually is less expensive than the factory seals.

You also reminded me that I need to buy a seal installer kit. That makes installing these parts way easier.
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Old 12-21-2023, 02:25 PM #27
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Job well done. You saved a lot of money and have more experience now. That's a win win in my book.

My 4Runner is also rust free. That made a tremendous difference. My buddy's Tacoma was not, and it was a bit more challenging.

For future reference, the Napa seal is ok but there are plenty of online Toyota dealers that sell OEM parts at a reduced cost. I buy a lot of my parts from Olathe Toyota Parts Center

Also, you can usually find Timken seals on Amazon or at other locations. Timken is an OEM supplier and usually is less expensive than the factory seals.

You also reminded me that I need to buy a seal installer kit. That makes installing these parts way easier.
Unfortunately, I didn't plan it well and the only dealership in town that had the part wanted $60 for it. That's $15 more than MSRP! I don't ever plan on doing any business with them in the future. The dealership I normally buy stuff from has it for $30, but they were out of stock for the foreseeable future. I would've ordered it online if I had more time.
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