01-17-2024, 07:26 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeinNH67
My local True Value has metric studs. I would think you'd have something similar in your area. Ace or Aubuchon?
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Thanks.
I will check the local stores if I can't snag one at the parts yard this weekend.
It looks like M8 thread 28.80mm long.
Each end has about 10.50mm of thread leaving about 7-8mm in the center that is not threaded.
I doubt 2mm here or there would be a huge deal but if I can find an exact one I will opt for that!
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01-21-2024, 06:30 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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Scored a few smaller items at the 'yard because the two 4Runners there were picked pretty clean!
Found hood release & cover, lumbar assembly, 1 fuel/evap clip, fan clutch stud and a bunch of misc clamps nuts & bolts. The hardware is to replace a few things I have but that aren't in great shape.
Couldn't find the radiator cover, radiator shroud nuts & bolts, spare tire tools and one fuel/evap clip. Hope I can find those elsewhere.
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01-30-2024, 02:07 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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Well the hood latch assembly has some sort of sensor built into it. Must be a limited thing. No way to remove the sensor from mine and add it to the new one without breaking them apart. I was only swapping it out to clean things up a little, so I ended up wire wheeling it and hitting it with some paint.
The larger project I got done was the wheel bearing which went really smoothly. I did see that the PO had replaced this before because they poked a hole in the disc shaped cover trying to get it off. So I massaged it back to close the hole as much as I could and slopped some RTV on the hole. Meh.
We also swapped in all new coil packs to match the one I had done a few weeks ago. So it should purr like a kitten now.
I also removed the plastidip from the V8 Emblem.
I'm not a chrome fan but the total black murdered out look isn't me either.
Waiting on some replacement hardware to put the new radiator shroud, new belt and new fan clutch in.
Last edited by locked up; 01-30-2024 at 04:17 PM.
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02-07-2024, 12:02 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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Got a new engine cover in place.
I know it does nothing but I like the look!
Also replaced a few small brackets that hold evap lines on the driver side.
Got a few more to find part numbers on and swap out.
Including replacing those bright yellow zip ties with the proper clips!
Also got the new fan clutch & shroud in.
PO had said it ran a little hot on long trips. I have not experienced that but also it's winter and I have not driven far.
I'm wondering if it has/had to do with the aftermarket radiator or cap? Maybe it had to do with the AC Condensor leaking (as in maybe it was running constantly?). That was changed out so I guess time will tell. Considering going back to OEM for the Radiator & cap and doing the thermostat with it. Just to be sure.
Currently looking for a mild water leak. It had rained a TON here and I suspect it was a sunroof drain. Should get that sorted out in the next week.
Also doing a power steering flush and checking the hoses out.
Then it's on to taking care of the 2 spots of bad frame on the passenger side and sorting out the leaky actuator.
After that I will do timing belt, water pump and thermostat. Need to do something with the dash, the CV boots and I want some aftermarket UCAs. Thinking I like the look of the Dirt King with the Ball Joints. Also need to scope out a rear Track bar bracket.
It's coming together!
Last edited by locked up; 02-07-2024 at 12:09 PM.
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02-07-2024, 06:33 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Indiana
Posts: 4
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Location: Indiana
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locked up
After that I will do timing belt, water pump and thermostat. Need to do something with the dash, the CV boots and I want some aftermarket UCAs. Thinking I like the look of the Dirt King with the Ball Joints. Also need to scope out a rear Track bar bracket.
It's coming together!
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Suggest looking at the JBA UCA's - they are decent for the price
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03-02-2024, 06:53 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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I got both front sunroof drains cleared.
It has rained since then and I didn't find any wet spots so I think I'm good there.
Somehow the PO had cracked the fuse box cover/base.
So that got replaced as well.
I'm now trying to track down a Bank 2 Lean condition (P0174).
I also replaced the driver side O2 sensor ... so both fronts are new.
(Side note, thread chaser is < thread tap. Just FYI)
I have the rear sensors too but have not put them in.
Cleaned the MAF.
Also replaced the PCV valve, PCV hoses and a few misc bits of hardware and clips.
I'm thinking it might be a vac leak since I did replace a few brackets under the hood.
Maybe I popped off a hose or bumped a brittle one?
That or a fuel injector.
Ugh.
Time to bust out the smoke tester I guess.
Last edited by locked up; 03-02-2024 at 07:03 PM.
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03-03-2024, 05:53 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
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Did a smoke test today and couldn't find any major leaks.... but I did find a few Evap hoses that need some love, so those are getting replaced.
During the smoke test I did see the slightest amount , and I mean super slight, coming out from near the TB/Intake connection. I tightened that up and noticed the intake housing is looking a little ragged. Might order a new one to be safe.
I also noticed that the fuel line to the passenger side must have had a leak at some point and the PO patched it.
You can see it in the back of this pic (please ignore the missing evap lines). That would technically be going to "Bank 2" so I might replace it when I do the injectors if I can figure out the part numbers! lol
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03-21-2024, 04:04 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
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Had to go out of town and I need an inspection before the end of the month. So I had to drop it off at a shop.
Of course the battery was dead so dropped in a new 27F-DLG because it has more CCA.
Anyway, glad I brought it to the shop because I was about to try to change the injectors to solve my P0174.
Turns out it was a broken ground wire to the O2 sensor. They repaired the break and no CEL now.
While it was there I had them do a bunch of stuff so that I can get some miles on it before inspection.
Needed a Timing belt service so I told them to change out pretty much everything "while they were in there"...
Belts, Cam & Crank Seals, Idler, Adjusters, tensioners, Thermostat, water & oil pumps, Harmonic balancer, Alternator
& Cooling Assembly Bracket.
Also needed 2 power steering hoses.
Don't ask how much it all was.... but it runs like a champ now.
After it passes inspection.... next up will be to address the spots in the frame which I am planning on going overkill with, as in SafeTCaps.
Then I need to do something about the actuator leak. Thinking about an FJ case.... is that crazy?
After that I am thinking about leveling it out. I don't like the rake but not sure it's wise to go up on the Bilsteins in the front for added lift. So either I need to go big money up front or lower the rear an inch... which I don't really want to do. Hmmmmm.
Last edited by locked up; 04-02-2024 at 06:56 PM.
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03-22-2024, 08:37 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: illinois
Posts: 1,685
Real Name: Ron
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: illinois
Posts: 1,685
Real Name: Ron
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Reference frame rust. The V8 AC condenser drains right on top of the frame rail, passenger side coming through the firewall, a 90 degree down hose. This hose drips condensate right on top of the frame rail, the condensate runs down to a spot on the frame under the passenger side front door where it stops and drips on the ground. At that point it rusts a hole in the frame. you might want to get a hose barb connection and some hose and run the hose to a location away from the frame, I took mine to the passenger side wheel well and clamped it there. I had a rusted hole a foot long on the bottom of the frame there, driver side clean.
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2003 Limited, V8, AWD. K&N, Dobinson IMS/FJ springs,, SPC UCA, Super Pro bushings in front LCA and in all rear control arms, Michelin 265/65R17 LTX/Defenders, stock wheels with homemade center caps, Stop Tech slotted rotors w/Posi Quiet pads all around, spare tire relocated to inside cargo area.
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03-22-2024, 09:39 AM
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#25
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Location: Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdruss
Reference frame rust. The V8 AC condenser drains right on top of the frame rail, passenger side coming through the firewall, a 90 degree down hose. This hose drips condensate right on top of the frame rail, the condensate runs down to a spot on the frame under the passenger side front door where it stops and drips on the ground. At that point it rusts a hole in the frame. you might want to get a hose barb connection and some hose and run the hose to a location away from the frame, I took mine to the passenger side wheel well and clamped it there. I had a rusted hole a foot long on the bottom of the frame there, driver side clean.
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Good info!
Mine is only really bad on the passenger side up front and in the area you describe. I'll try to find the drain and move it and take pictures for reference for others.
Last edited by locked up; 04-02-2024 at 06:57 PM.
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04-02-2024, 06:48 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
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I got all the SafeTCap parts ordered.
Went with 200, 201 & 202 on both sides as well as some fish plates and gussets.
I don't think it will need them all, but the shop I am using is far away and I didn't want to have to make a second trip/order.
Some before shots:
This is everything I can find (and I am looking hard) on the driver side.
3rd picture is down the gas tank side and it looks clean.
The outside (outboard side) looks immaculate everywhere. It's just the inner (inboard) side.
Last edited by locked up; 04-08-2024 at 01:28 PM.
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04-02-2024, 06:53 PM
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#27
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Pass side is worse and the photos make it look horrible...but still not like the catastrophic stuff I see on the web... and again the outside (outboard side) looks immaculate. very strange.
I think even on this side the 202 parts are overkill but that is my goal.
I never want to do this again (and if I have to I will re-frame it).
Last edited by locked up; 04-08-2024 at 01:25 PM.
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04-08-2024, 01:19 PM
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#28
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Texas
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Got the front & rear driveshafts lubed up today @ 215,674
(Had the typical clunking)
Opted for Valvoline with Moly for u-joints and Mobil 1 synthetic for the slips.
Seems to have solved it.
Dropping off tomorrow at my local 4x4 shop for the Saftcap install.
I'll share pics when I get them!
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05-03-2024, 06:23 PM
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#29
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Location: Texas
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The shop was backed up but getting to me now.
Driver side was very clean inside except for the very bottom.
Passenger side will look worse inside but hopefully not too far up.
I guess as thick as these caps are it doesn't matter.... not gonna go anywhere now!
Will share pics from pass side when I get them.
Last edited by locked up; 05-24-2024 at 10:29 AM.
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05-24-2024, 10:29 AM
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#30
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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Got it back on 5/13/24 from Krawltex but forgot to update.
Frame is STOUT.
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