My rear door was not working over the winter, a big no go.
The door lock worked but all the rest did not, no window up down, no wiper, no defrost.

With some advise from people I was suspecting that the window is to up at its regular position in order to have these functions (there seems to be a switch at this position but I don't know where to find it- if anyone knows...please)

The question is why is the window not working. When I push the button I can hear the relay(s) click inside the rear door ECU. And testing the plug to the window motor.... indeed there is power for up and down when I push the button.

I saw that the motor and window regulator were very very rusty.... so I bought a used replacement because I think the regulator motor was dead.

The window is in the closed position and removing the old regulator last night was a pita. 2 of the 4 M6 bolts that hold the glass in place were rusted out. One of the 2 screws- the head snapped off... and the other one would not come out and turn in circles... the bolt's thread was gone/stripped...

As I could not get the glass lowered for better access, I was cutting the regulator cables in order to slide the glass down (see pictures). I drilled out the 2 bolts that I could not remove.... At one location the plastic gave up and the insert came off. The old regulator came off.
By now I recut the M6 threads of the 4 tabs in the glass and epoxied the damaged tab insert back.

Now the question is: The new window regulator has the 2 sides also high up... for window close position.
What is the common method to install the new regulator?
What position is preferred? Closed position or is there a way to move the slides in the regulator tracks down for better access?


Second question: How do you remove the white plastic cap over the lift gate lock below the regulator? I wanted to give the lock a little love and lubrication.

Martin

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I've done regulators in other cars but not in a T4R. Install replacement regulator and position glass mounts that gives best access. BTW, I have removed a hatch glass to keep as a spare.

Lock actuator has to come out if you want to remove white shell. If the actuator is sticking on the catch, the catch is the problem. Remove catch and flip it around to present the clean side to the actuator.

It's usually better to put the new regulator in a closed position when installing it. This helps it line up properly with the window and tracks. But if you can't get to the tracks easily, you might need to lower the window by hand before putting in the new regulator. You can use products like WD-40 or PB Blaster to loosen up rusty bolts before trying to take them out.
To get rid of the plastic cap on the lift gate lock, you can use a trim removal tool or a small, flat-head screwdriver. Once it's off, adding a bit of lubricant to the lock mechanism can really help.

Thanks everyone.
I was successfully changing the regulator and a replacement ECU, I could drill out the 2 broken and rusted out screws ( connecting the glass to the regulator) and recut the female M6 . In the process of drilling and recutting one of the 2 affected steel inserts of these white plastic tabs broke out (insert falling out) I used my best epoxy to fix that insert again... The next day I was lucky and the replacement regulator was a bit 'down' which helped a lot with connecting the glass to the regulator.

I still was not successful to remove the white plastic cap at the hatch door lock... there must be a trick. I think if I am using more force I'll break the plastic.
the good news: everything seems to work again!

Remaining questions: Whenever I disconnect the ECU of the rear hatch it seems the window closing mechanism does stop working... I need to reset the back door.... The trick that worked for me was disconnecting and reconencting the battery.
Any insights of proper resetting the rear hatch ECU?

Ah... I still don't know where this glass end stop micro switch is located ... Or whatever the sensor of the glass 'closed position' might be.
Where is this thing? (if the glass in not in the end position the wiper etc won't work...

My regulator motor died and the glass was not all the way up... which was the reason these functions did not work.
Now with a new regulator/motor all works well.

Martin

White plastic cap for actuator has a screw attachment. You have to remove the actuator to reach the screw.

Thanks Sam

With the new window motor/ regulator the back hatch is working well.

I saw why my rear door is such a trouble maker.

We live in the woods with a lot of bio mass coming down onto the cars and with a slights slope up when parked all rain water (plenty of rain here!) the rear door gets flooded.
I pulled out a ton of organic material from the inside of that door.
I think all the drain holes get clogged and then the actuator/door lock is entirely submersed in times... that is when the electrical trouble is starting....(door lock clicking like crazy and the rear window rolling down whenever it wants to without touching the up down button.

I exchanged the rear door ECU but theold one might be okay.
Remember the trouble is starting each year in the rainy summer period (door lock clicking-locking-unlocking very fast and the rear window rolling down. it is out of control.Every summer I have the wish to sell this car because of this)

I looked today and saw that there is a 3mm (1/8") gap between glass and the rubber . No wonder why so much dirt and orgnaic stuff in accumulating inside!.


I wanted to ask- Does the glass on your back hatch also have this wide gap?
What can be done in order to tighten that gap?
I was thinking about a spoiler and redirect the water flow if there are spoilers that are continuous and shed the water like a roof overhang?

Martin

Mine has a gap. I asked about this when I replaced all my window rubber and was told this was normal.

With a good outer and inner weatherstrip there shouldn't be a gap...but it also won't be extremely tight either, I replaced my outer weaterstrip became I did have a gap and the rubber was also cracked/torn in several places.

If the inner weatherstrip is also worn out you would most likely have a gap even with a new outer strip.

The weatherstrip isn't designed to keep water completely out, if they were the window wouldn't work very well, they are designed to keep some water out and most all debris.

These weatherstrippings are called "belts" by Toyota and are around $25/$30 each, and are easy to replace.

On a side note, you guys heard of hatch window spontaneously shattering? Some say it happens when defroster is turned on. Others have reported the glass shattering for no reason at all. Anyways, I picked an OE glass from the junkyard. It even has tint similar to my other windows.

Check exterior hatch release button.

Thanks Au, good information about the weatherstrips.
I think my weatherstrips have entirely gone with my 1/8" gap and all pine needles and dirt accumulating inside causing flooding...I have a water bottle inside in rainy times- when I open the hatch a big amount of water is moving around...flowing out of the window seal area and the panel...
Do you have the inner and outer belt part numbers?

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They have gone up in price since I bought mine.

Outer weatherstrip/belt...

68290-35031 Genuine Toyota Part)

Inner weatherstrip/belt...

68291-35020 Genuine Toyota Weatherstrip, Back Door Glass)

Thanks Au,

I'll order the weather strips and hope this will keep the biomass outside and avoid the clogging of the weep holes and flooding inside the lower part of the door.

Best, Martin

I installed the both new weather strips and it is looking so much better- no gap any more.
I am sure this will perform so much better in our climate and outdoor conditions (living in the woods, car outside).
I am assuming the tighter weather strips will keep the debris and bio mass from trees outside the inner cavity of the rear hatch and thus avoid the flooding of the hatch lock and ECU-electronics.

Thank you all for helping me fixing this hatch.

Martin