Front CV Axle replacement - Lessons learnt - Toyota 4Runner Forum

andynj · 05-17-2024, 10:30 AM

Just did the front axle on my 07 Front runner, never done one before so thought I would post my lessons learnt in case its useful for others. Overall its a relatively easy job but there are things I would do different next time:

Get a good CV axle with plastic boots, neoprene boots (old axle) tear very easily I have had cheap replacements done by a local mechanic twice and both tore on the driver side. I used TRAKMOTIVE TO8168HDX from Rockauto which have good plastic boots)

Pre order both the knuckle seal (90316A0001) and the Transmission side axle seal (I used National 710596 from Amazon) as you will likely need to replace both and will be stuck if you don't have them

Youtube makes getting th CV Axle out really easy, in my case it definately was not I ended up having to get these from Amazon to pop it out which took 5mins once I had them. [URL="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B49Q8YJS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"[/URL]

Make sure you have a good long breaker bar that is very strong and a torque wrench that does more than 200ftlb's for the axle nut (>200ftlbs) and ideally a good impact wrench for the ball joint bolts.

You can do this on your own especially if you have a lift but having 2 people when man handling the CV in and out makes it a lot easier as its pretty heavy and awkward to maneuver.

Putting seals in is a PITA to get them in straight, have patience and don't try and whack it in if you get frustrated. You don't really need a seal driver for the transmission wide axle seal you can use the old seal, there is not enough room to get a seal driver in straight unless you remove the whole knuckle.

When hammering in the new axle remove the tie rod and insert the axle into the hub, temporarily put in the ball joint bolts to hold it straight. This will compress the axle enough and hold it straight so you can easily whack it in with a deadblow with a few hits. If you don't do this and don't have a helper you will be fighting the compression of the axle and won't be able to get enough force to insert the circlip.

Overall this is a relatively straightforward job that should take about 2 - 3 hours, less if you have a lift. I saved ~$800 from taking it to a mechanic (not even dealer as prices are crazy here in NYC for automotive work) I also spent time cleaning everything, fixing rust and making sure everything else was good so I know it was done right. There was no knuckle seal at all on mine, so the last guy forgot to put it in so now I know thats there.

Gabbagoul · 06-21-2024, 07:08 AM

Doing some routine maintenance on my 08 sr5 and found my cv boot ripped. Being that she is a bit higher miles - 198k, I'm looking at just replacing both the cv axles up front. Does anyone have knowledge of using these? I'm looking at GSP front cv axles from parts geek part number: 28867-02943907
Any help or I sight would be appreciated.

andynj · 06-21-2024, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gabbagoul

Doing some routine maintenance on my 08 sr5 and found my cv boot ripped. Being that she is a bit higher miles - 198k, I'm looking at just replacing both the cv axles up front. Does anyone have knowledge of using these? I'm looking at GSP front cv axles from parts geek part number: 28867-02943907
Any help or I sight would be appreciated.

Haven't used these but I replaced the drivers side CV's twice due to torn boots and they were both neoprene ones. I would recommend getting one with plastic boots like OEM. The ones I posted above are much more heavy duty with hard plastic boots and about the same price. Also if only one boot is torn on one CV axle just change that one no need to do the other unless it is also causing problems. 4runners seems to always go on the driver side for some reason.

xtremewlr · 06-21-2024, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andynj

Just did the front axle on my 07 Front runner, never done one before so thought I would post my lessons learnt in case its useful for others. Overall its a relatively easy job but there are things I would do different next time:

Get a good CV axle with plastic boots, neoprene boots (old axle) tear very easily I have had cheap replacements done by a local mechanic twice and both tore on the driver side. I used TRAKMOTIVE TO8168HDX from Rockauto which have good plastic boots)

Pre order both the knuckle seal (90316A0001) and the Transmission side axle seal (I used National 710596 from Amazon) as you will likely need to replace both and will be stuck if you don't have them

Youtube makes getting th CV Axle out really easy, in my case it definately was not I ended up having to get these from Amazon to pop it out which took 5mins once I had them. [URL="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B49Q8YJS/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"[/URL]

Make sure you have a good long breaker bar that is very strong and a torque wrench that does more than 200ftlb's for the axle nut (>200ftlbs) and ideally a good impact wrench for the ball joint bolts.

You can do this on your own especially if you have a lift but having 2 people when man handling the CV in and out makes it a lot easier as its pretty heavy and awkward to maneuver.

Putting seals in is a PITA to get them in straight, have patience and don't try and whack it in if you get frustrated. You don't really need a seal driver for the transmission wide axle seal you can use the old seal, there is not enough room to get a seal driver in straight unless you remove the whole knuckle.

When hammering in the new axle remove the tie rod and insert the axle into the hub, temporarily put in the ball joint bolts to hold it straight. This will compress the axle enough and hold it straight so you can easily whack it in with a deadblow with a few hits. If you don't do this and don't have a helper you will be fighting the compression of the axle and won't be able to get enough force to insert the circlip.

Overall this is a relatively straightforward job that should take about 2 - 3 hours, less if you have a lift. I saved ~$800 from taking it to a mechanic (not even dealer as prices are crazy here in NYC for automotive work) I also spent time cleaning everything, fixing rust and making sure everything else was good so I know it was done right. There was no knuckle seal at all on mine, so the last guy forgot to put it in so now I know thats there.

Lesson LEARNED.

@Gabbagoul - Keep the OEM ones and just reboot them. 198k miles is nothing. The CVs are fine unless they are making noise and I seriously doubt they are.

For outer boots, I use these - https://www.offroadsolutions.com/pro...ement-cv-boot/

I am also running the orange, high angle boots from the same place. They work great.

Gabbagoul · 06-22-2024, 01:10 PM

@xtremewlr that boot kit you recommended, did you do all the boots on your cv axles or just the outer ones? I haven't heard any sounds or anything that really is concerning regarding mine, but if you guys are saying to just switch the boots and keep running it till there's a significant issue then I'll go that route.

xtremewlr · 06-22-2024, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gabbagoul

@xtremewlr that boot kit you recommended, did you do all the boots on your cv axles or just the outer ones? I haven't heard any sounds or anything that really is concerning regarding mine, but if you guys are saying to just switch the boots and keep running it till there's a significant issue then I'll go that route.

Only replace what is ripped, unless you just want to have fresh boots all around. Unless you are hearing significant noise, like a consistent clicking, especially noticeable when turning, your CVs are fine and just need new boots and grease. The boot kits come with new grease as well. Not much out there beats the OEM CVs for durability. Keep them for as long as possible.

I have over 346,600 miles on my rebooted, OEM CVs.

straight6pwr · 07-07-2024, 09:59 PM

thanks for sharing, does the 2 hour estimate include rusty/crusty bolt removal?

Runnin on E · 07-07-2024, 10:17 PM

I did a CV axle rebuild thread over here about 7 years ago. They are the same axles. Keep your original axles don't exchange them. There is a good reason they are as expensive as they are, because quality costs.

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