two different calipers are listed for the 4th gen 4wd vehicles, one for 16 inch wheels, one for 17 inch wheels. It was worked on and now pulls to the left. I don't know what was done, shop won't respond.
Very spongy brakes after a bleeding according to the service manual.
I was thinking of a master cylinder piston replacement, and both calipers, with new pads, miking the rotors for fun as well and possibly front hoses.

How do I identify the different calipers, I see yota no longer has pairs of the calipers for the 17 inch wheels listed.

I believe the calipers you are referring to are for the different size front rotors, there's like a 12.75" and a 13.125", or something very close to those measurements. So, when you get replacement calipers you need to know your rotor diameter. There's a casting identifier on the calipers, one is WH, the other, WL, I think. Someone who has that info at their fingertipd will chime in I'm sure.

I have a pic of the last right front I bought from the NAPA website.
NAPA...

In my spreadsheet I have these part numbers for my early 2004 V8 with the large rotors.
OEM FL 47750-60261-84
OEM FR 47730-60261-84

Here is what I have for the NAPA part number
NAPA R/F NUG 9701652A

Attached Images

 

Rotor size question

Rotor size "16 or 17?"

Totally confused about 4th gen front calipers: 13WG or 13WH

Old Question, New Owner: 13.2 or 12.6 Rotor Size?

I wouldn't touch the master cylinder unless you see leakage. The common issue for these is the calipers. Even new remans are sometimes junk and you may have the wrong one there. One step at a time.

I am getting a price of roughly$100 for the toyota reman calipers from toyota. Plus freight. Core,And pads.
Is that the way to go. ? I have switched from NAPA to Federated because the Mgr of the Laurel Md store, Steven is extremely knowledgeable.

Those are the same numbers we got from toyota with our vin.
the -84 signifies rebuilt.

You may have already done this but did you do the brake booster sequence to bleed it after the caliper was changed. I can't remember exactly but with ignition on but car off (I think) you need to press the brake like 8 times (?) it might then beep you press it a couple more times and its bled. If that has not been done you may still have air in the brake booster.

Hopefully he does some forum posts searching before attempting what you posted above, what you posted does sound a little similar to posted procedure for the brake booster....but there's no way just pressing the brake pedal 8 times or any amount of presses will purge air out of the system, it may however get some air moving so you can bleed it out, the only way to get air out of the system is by allowing fluid to "carry" it out of a opened bleeder valve.

I think what you're referring too is what is the second step in the "Brake Fluid Bleeding" section of the Toyota OEM Shop Manual.

Follow the link and look at post number 8 for a PDF of the Shop Manual on bleeding, hopefully the PDF file will help him bleed his brakes properly!

DIY: Brake Fluid Change / Bleed Using a Scan Tool

Quote of step 2 from the shop manual.

"2. BLEED BRAKE BOOSTER W/ACCUMULATOR PUMP
ASSEMBLY
HINT:
Perform this step only if the brake booster with
accumulator pump assembly is removed and/or
installed.
(a) Turn the ignition switch off, depress the brake pedal
20 times or more to release the pressure from the
accumulator.
(b) Fully depress the brake pedal 10 times.
(c) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and start
the brake booster pump.
(d) Make sure the pump operates for 8 to 14 seconds.
If the pump does not operate as specified, repeat
steps (a) to (c) and recheck the operating time"

In found this post on the 'net:

Limited and SR5 had 12.6 while Sport Edition had 13.3. I read somewhere that X-REAS option has 13.3. Mine is a Limited and has 12.6. AKAIK, all rear rotors are the same.

All this being said, visual conformation of the casting number is best.

Spongy and pull are two different problems perhaps related. Spongy is air in lines. Bleed at the booster can be done by holding brake pedal down and cracking metal lines to booster. Trigger ABS events on wet leafy road (safely) to get the pump and solenoids going. This should move air out of the valve block. Repeat as necessary.

When I got my T4R, it pulled to the left with medium brake application. Pedal was not spongy. About 2 months later, pump and accumulator failed so I removed the booster assembly and replaced the pump and accumulator (with a JY pull from a GS300). Bled lines to and from the booster assembly. To my surprise, brake pull disappeared. Not sure what cured the pull but the answer is here somewhere.