Quote:
Originally Posted by rdruss
Forget that. Bleed the rears by turning the key on and open the bleeder screw and it will pump a steady stream, couple of times and you're good. Then bleed the front using the standard push/hold/bleed with key off, or get a Mighty Vac and bleed fronts that way. I always crack the bleeder screw after a caliper replacement and wait until it gravity bleeds and then start the procedure. Never had a problem and my brakes are solid.
|
I did that when I installed the new calipers, but the brakes are still a little spongy. Not any worse than before, at least. And it definitely stops faster. Maybe I'm just overthinking this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SocalSam
Air gets trapped in the lines to the MC/ABS valve block. Have assistant press brake pedal and crack the lines. Also find a wet road with plenty of room and trigger ABS/TC events to get the fluid in the valve block moving. Repeat as necessary.
|
Crack which lines? I've been planning on finding a dirt/gravel road to trigger the ABS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Berty_K
|
My problem isn't with the travel, it's the spongyness, and the fact that I'm not getting the same results from the "40 pedal press" procedure that other people reported. But like I said, I might be overthinking this. The brakes seem to work, but I'm a little worried that there's a problem with my master cylinder (minor leak?) that the brake booster is covering up.