08 v6 230k 4x4

Experiencing horrible bump steer and wandering on the highway. Nothing cause it just started to happen and then I started taking it to shops and then throwing parts at it

So far I have done
OEM rack
OEM Inner/outer rods
Mavotech LCA
New UBJ/upgrade UCA bushings (SPC)
Dobinson lift ( same setup as before)
Rear UCA
Dr. KDSS panhard bar correction
Sub assembly steering shaft
OEM hubs/bearings
Known good wheels with new tires
Front brakes/calipers

I’ve done everything a shop as said to try/ have gotten 5 alignments from the best know shops. Even went to Wescott and they were no help

Other shop said I’m just SOL but nothing has been changed or adjusted

Truck just sits now cause it’s unbearable to drive and I used to put on 25k a year and lived in it while traveling

No fb/ local ASE mechanics are any help

Just at a loss at this point

Any chance you actually have the alignment specs handy?

The usual list of suspects would be:

Busted suspension components/bushings which you appear to have mostly addressed. Are your sway bar links/bushing in good shape?

Bad alignment - the spec sheet can confirm this. Usually a little over factory caster is the way to go for stability.

Rare but not unheard of item: Tires. Sometimes a tire can basically go bad. Whether it's belt damage, age, or weird wear they can occasionally cause some seriously odd symptoms with no other obvious cause.

Dont know why it wont let me upload but, all green is the most recent alignment with the other being 6 months prior
https://imgur.com/a/jiI40J5

Honestly, I'd be inspecting those LCA bushings as a first step. They're an easy explanation for everything you've just described, and googling "mevotech lca issues" quickly starts to produce a bunch of results with failures on fairly new hardware.

SMH, First of all, Throwing all those parts at an undiagnosed problem is criminal on the shops part.
Do you live in the rust belt? Rusted mounting points can cause problems. Are the Anti Sway Bars in tact? Broken or fatigued rear springs can cause wandering issues. Bump steer is not usually a problem with OEM suspension geometry. An improperly installed rack with old or crappy bushings can cause BS.
Good Luck.

Did you level the panhard bar in the rear as well? If it is at it's limit already, then when you go over a bump, the rear may pull one way or another perhaps depending on your lift.

I recently got a Dr.KDSS bolt on one and saw slight improvement over small bumps but nothing noticeable on highways

I did all the work myself in a walmart parking lot besides the rack that a shop did for me, I would do a part or 2 a weekend and see if there was any improvement and nothing was noticeable, everytime i would get alignment the shop would say it could be X Y and Z, but no shop has an actual diag

Im originally from the east but live in AZ now, Im used to rust but Ive always kept this as clean as I could, shops havent said anything about it being from the east being an issue

I had the issue when I ran OEM LCA and switched back to Mavotechs and didnt notice a difference

Kudos for doing all that work yourself in a Wally World parking lot!

The critical thing I would check is the body mount bushings condition and hardware for torque. I wonder if the body is dancing on the frame over bumps??

One thing that I don’t see you replaced, and may not cause the bump steer but is worth inspecting, is the rear LCAs. I would inspect those bushings and see if they are worn/rotted. While you’re down there, undo the panhard/track bar on one side, roll the truck gently back and forth to put the axle in its neutral position, and check that the bar ends are adjusted accordingly. In my experience, a misadjusted bar will cause a pull but not the condition you have.

Also, can you please clarify the front UCA: New UBJ/upgrade UCA bushings (SPC)? Were you running SPCs before and just replaced the ball joints and bushings? Do all the welds for the UCA appear intact?

I’d also check the torque on the front LCA bolts and make sure they’re still tight - 100 lbs I believe. I’ve seen those not torqued properly after alignment. While you’re checking the torque of those bolts, make sure that the alignment cam tabs welded to the frame are intact and keeping the cams in place so the control arms don’t dance over bumps.

Good luck.

Nothing better than learning to do an axle in 110° heat

I've voiced my concerns to every shop and anything I think it could or would be and they always come back with "we dont know, everything looks fine" and if they suggest something I get the part and install it to see if it made a difference

Rear LCA were recently done mileage wise, but wouldnt hurt to try another set and ill try the panhard trick next time im on the ground doing work (this weekend) Ill check body mounts as well

Ive been running SPC since i originally lifted the truck over 100k ago, The UBJ were the first thing I originally replaced when I started having this issue then SPC Performance xAxis Control Arm Bushing, all welds should be good from when a shop just do the bushings (knew I wouldnt be able to press them in a parking lot)

I just ordered a intermediate steering shaft today just to eliminate the rag joint being bad

About how much play does the steering have? And is there any leakage from inner tie rods?
Oh and one more thing, how's your power steering system?

Mine does the same BS with the stock suspension. Above 70 it doesn't even feel like the steering wheel is connected to the front wheels. Granted mine also shakes worse than the challenger but I know your pain.

For mine its a weird combo of:
Suspension geometry changing due to the front springs and shocks sagging and forcing negative camber.
Enough play in the steering that also somehow gets lost between wheels. (Both wheels wiggle independently of each other, until a certain point at least)
Last but not least my power steering fluid is original to the car, the pump is failing, and the rack is bleeding fluid into the inner rod boots.

I have some play in the steering after replacing the entire rack/arms, waiting on a steering shaft in the mail to replace the rag joint to eliminate that as an issue

if both wheels independently then its either tie rods/rack or bearings and fluid coming from the rack indicates the rack is already bad