It is a well known issue that the factory skid plate bolts are self tapping and therefore easily cross threaded.

While I have heard of this issue since purchasing my 1999 4R 8 years ago, I never had any experience with it as I have always changed my oil myself, dropping the skids every time, and never had an issue at all. Just been very careful to hand thread them as much as possible before using the ratchet.

Now on my 2007 4R, I noticed immediatly when dropping the skids to install the lift kit that the 3 of the bolts were cross threaded from the factory. I did not address the issue until changing my oil for the first time as I didnt have the stuff on hand to fix the issue.

I thought I would post about this to inform others of how easy it really is to fix. I had never used a thread tap before and was worried that it would get screwed up even worse at first.

I picked up a set of craftsman thread taps at sears. The size you need is M8x1.25. Also a tap wrench and some cutting oil. And new bolts sized M8x1.25x25mm.

I picked up enough to replace all 8 bolts as the socket needed to undo these bolts is 13mm rather than the 12mm for the factory bolt heads. This way only one socket is needed while removing the skids.

Tapping the threaded bolt holes is very simple. Just put a some cutting oil on the tap and screw it into the hole slowly and be sure to keep the tap straight. It will self feed into the hole. As you sense resistance, back the tap out a half turn to break up any cuttings, then start to screw in again putting even pressure on both sides of the t-tap wrench handle.

On the front most holes of the factory skid plate (the ones with the hooks on it), I needed to use a dremel to widen the holes (in the skid, not the threaded mount) a hair as the hole is very tight and precise alignment of the skid and threaded hole must be made to avoid re cross threading.

Thats it very simple and the bolts went back in as they should.

Materials...


Note the factory bolts cross threaded...

Great post J.A. I'm thinking about getting stainless bolts instead of factory mild steel ones.

Great post

I've been meaning to do this for over a year.

Dunno about 07 but my 03's rear skid mounting holes (the ones in the crossmember) had nuts spot welded inside the frame. I changed to a downey skid plate about 2 years back and I have to remove the skid plate to drain the oil (no I don't want to cut a hole in it).

Anyway, one of the nuts broke from the weld last year and I had to hack-saw the bolt to get the plate off. I since did as you did and tapped wider holes in the frame. I also upgraded the bolts to grade 8 as I have had to support most of the weight of my truck on the plate.

I would suggest getting grade 8 bolts. Grade 5 are also good. If they are not rated they are most likely going to bend or even sheer under stress. The price difference for bolts this size is trivial, $2 or $3 a bolt.

Great post with photos and all. Thanks a bunch!

I put some anti seize on the bolts. Makes them go in and come out much easier.

Guys, thanks for the feedback and tips...

Stainless, yes would be a great idea. Home Depot did not have them, or I prolly would have got that. The bolts I picked up were $0.53 each, zinc coated. You can get stainless at a boating store.

Grade 8.8 is indeed what I purchased, though most if not all the bolts are recessed I believe, so I am not too worried about shearing with the factory plates.

Anti-Sieze paste, yes I used that as well, more for a lube than for anti-sieze. You can see some on the rightmost red bolt in pic #1.

sub'd

The first time I took my skid off those bolts felt frail and like the same thing might happen. It's simple, but I just coated them with some fresh oil when I put them back, and they go in and out pretty smoothly now. Not that it'd help you since they were cross-threaded when you got it (which sucks!) but for everyone else complaining about them, this may help you a little too.

Was under the front end of my 4Runner the other day and noticed that one of the front most skid plate bolts was busted off. Don't know how long its been like that since it's new to me, but any ideas on how to get the threaded portion of the bolt out? I'd like to try with out damaging the original threads, but could always retap if needed I guess.

Do you have enough room to spin it out with pliers on the threads from inside (above) the skid plate? I had to do that with a snapped upper shock mount bolt once on another car... a little annoying but not nearly as much so as tapping a new hole would be.

If I am understanding you right, then no. There is nothing exposed for me to grab on to. It is sheard off flush or even recessed in the threaded hole a little bit.

Sorry. Didn't mean to Hijack the thread. Nice right up with pics again J.A.!

got mine on!!! Didn't have to retap. Just switched to a different bolt and it bolted right on. Hopefully it will come out just as easily when it's time for the oil change. Great post none the less!!

Question:
I have to get a new front skid plate and am putting on rock rails. Last year a rock jumped up under my 4R and ripped off my front skid and my side steps YOU BAS**** ROCK.
Well anyway, when I install them I guess as stated I should hand tighten the bolts first then use the wrench but at what point should I stop and use the threader- example if the bolt is more than halfway thru should I then just tighten with the wrench-is that good?

Oh and PS it was a DAM BLAST when they got tore off, Rausch creek was fun as hell, like kayaking rapids fun! I met a dude LINY from this site and he gave the invite to Rausch, this site is awesome thanks THAI! Took my daughter with me and she said when she drives she wants a truck so she can go offroadin!

If anyone is looking for a bolt that works and wants to forgo tapping, I picked up a set of m8-1.25x25mm body bolts at lowes with a tapered thread. They worked well for my hogged out threads. Just make sure it is straight and work it a few turns with the ratchet, then back it out a turn, and repeat until snug. The bolt is made by Hillman and has a 13mm head. 1.39 a piece. They are black and come with a slightly wider washer which is nice. Little happier now after my first oil change.