I'm considering a Revtek 3" spacer lift with 1.25" Roger Brown body lift and Nitto 295/70 R17 on Procomp 7028's. Anyone done anything similar??
I've seen TruckHigh's and love the look of his rig. I'm concerned about too much cutting/ MPG and safety issues. Also wondering if I'd have to use Spidertrax- since I've heard wheel spacers are not recommended by most off road shops. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice.

If you even slightly concerned about milage , don't go so extreme.

If you are going to upsize, you will have to cut.

I personally would never use wheel spacers. You will be better off with the right offset wheel. What are the specs on the 7028? I saw a pic but it listed jeep info only. Most of the procomps are between 0 and -12 offsets which should allow clearance without spacers.

I did the roger brown 1.5in body lift and had no issues with the alignment of body parts. The rear bumper cover is stretched down a bit but you really don't notice it. There is no gap at all really on the front bumper. Just letting you know before you go to the trouble of installing the body lift. You can probably get away with the full 1.5, especially if you also get the steering spacer.

I decided to go with Nitto 285/65 R 18's and the 18 ProComps thinking at least if I like how it looks with 32.5" and not so wide I may not use the spidertrax or need the bodylift- I just don't want to butcher the fenders or deal with too much turn rubbing of the UCAs. I know I read a thread of someone using something similar- 285s with an OEM lift which I believe increases the ride height about the same as the Revtek.

I figured it would be a snap since the 1.25" lines up perfect according to 4crawler site. What's a 1/4" really if it makes it a cleaner finish right?

that's what I was trying to tell you. The 1.5 lines up very well also. this is a picture I took right after the install to point out how well it lined up. over to you obviously, just sharing what i found when I did my install.

Yeah Thanks and I appreciate your thoughts and advice! And you got one sweet ride- that's a great pic and very inspiring! I love the look of those Coopers (bit too aggressive maybe for what I need since mine will be 70/30 street to off road) but I sure like the look. What other suspension mods do you have besides your BL?

Thanks. I'm ok with cutting a little of the fender edge- I guess there's always that downside of homemade mods/ too bad the engineers at Toyota don't try to factor in better what we want to do as end users here. It seems there were always way more options with GM and Dodge trucks I've owned. The 7028's are coming from 4Wheelparts and they don't even want to hear the word spacers - I've been happy with other suspension work they've done for me in the past. Salesman told me today that 7089's (which I originally was going with are the same theoretically as 7028's but theres no info on their site because they are new. So I'm seeing
18x9, 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern

* Backspace = 4.75 in.
* Hub Centric = No or yes -both types available?
* Max Load = 2200lbs
* Offset = -6mm.

I was originally going to get some Craigslisted FJ or Tundra 5spoke 17's powdercoated but it was gonna cost me about a grand in the end anyway and I like the looks of these ProComps alot. However someone told me recently that TRD/ OEM would be better because cast rims like ProComps can crack? I thought it was BS and they wouldn't be selling them if that kind of thing happened even rarely.

FWIW,
i just bought some series 8107 pro comps from 4wheelparts. i got 17x8. the box said 6mm offset, the website says 0mm(???). i ended up buying 265/70 nitto terras due to price and the fact that nobody makes a decent 275/70 except gy silent armors. however, the silent armors weigh 53lbs a piece. ouch. i have a sway away front end, with an ivd 2 inch lifted rear. with the 265/70 on 6mm offset wheels, my tires have been pushed out just slightly more than the body, my gas mileage loss is negligible (big factor for me), i have saved a ton of money by buying 265/70 nittos, and the look of the truck is very satisfying imo. eventually i could go 285s and probably not have to trim since i now have at least a full inch of clearance between the tire and uca with my new rims. i believe 25mm equals 1 inch so changing from 30 to 6mm is the same as putting on 1 inch wheel spacers, which btw i would not want to use. btw, you dont want hub centric. lastly, if you are still using the truck as a daily driver and are concerned about wheel/tire prices and gas mileage, i would buy 17s with 265/70s. you wont be dissappointed and youll still be able to get 20mpgs. jmo.
ill post pics later today once i clean it up. i just put the lift on last weekend and the wheels a few days ago.

3 inch front/2 rear on 265/70r17

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Looks great! What level and type of tint do you have? Thanks for the info!!! Got any pics from front or rear?

its 20%...just had it redone to match the back.

no other pics right now.

The lift looks great and I fit the 285/60/18's with only minor inner fender liner cutting. No flare corner cutting was needed and I still have the mudflaps on -just had to cut the part in front of the bodymount- about half of the front flaps. The lift looks and rides great!! I was able to fit the 285's without any significant wheel well modifications! I raised the front bumper because it was really hard to stretch it over when I put it back on and thought it might crack/ break the retainer brackets. I'm happy with it and thanks for your advice and such.

I have a concern about the airbag warning light and steering mechanism however. -I had a hell of a time fitting the spacer in the steering assembly! I guess I should have done that step while the bolts were loose and the body was still separated because it was really tight. I realized after the spacer was in that the steering was 180 degrees from center or something to that effect and had to remove the bolts and rotate the steering wheel to what I thought might be correct- at least upright while wheels were straight. My question is how do I know where center/ revolution origin really is? Does it matter? Are there wires of any type in the steering that could get all twisted and wound up? I don't know if it is the way it was before I removed the lower bolts and my SRS/Airbag light won't go off. Is there a chance I messed something up? I disconected the fuse to the Airbag/SRS before I lifted it as was suggested and wonder if you know about the steering and if it's possible to mess it up if you freewheel it or if it accidentally gets several revolutions while it's unbolted?? . Thanks

Oh crap man I should have told you about what I did to get the steering extension in. I had a terrible time with that thing too so I cut the aluminum from the outside of one of the holes so I could slip it in sorta' from the side. And no, so long as your wheel is straight, when you're going straight, and you can turn full left and right with no binding then your wheel is centered fine.

The airbag won't have anything to do with the steering unless I'm re****ed. You took the fuse out so you should be fine but this is to prevent activating or messing with the airbag sensors when you mount the front bumper back up. If you had the battery attached and maybe got the wrong fuse by mistake then you might have done something. Not sure what it would have done beside activate the bag and that would require that you hit the mounts hard enough when you were bolting the front bumper back up.