Hey I just stumbled on to this. This is a fantastic write-up Darkie! I would love to attempt this but from reading the first post, it looks like it's only partial.. lost some crucial info. Is there a copy of this somewhere?

Thanks!

Hey jerrysc99 and s-one,

not sure if i have a copy of the original instructions but i'm sure i have all the pics. I'll try and fill in the gaps this weekend.

Kevin

I'd appreciate this a well. This seems like a good rainy weekend project.

Thanks Darkie, I have some time off from work next week and it will be a good time for this project. Can't wait to get started!

That would be awesome! Thanks Darkie!

I spoke too soon. Luckily, I made a backup of all my files. Here is the remainder of the original post.

7) Take pictures of the needle positions at rest. It’s very important to keep the gauges accurate throughout.
8) Use the fork to lift the needle off the metal shaft safely. I found the fork is able to lift the needle while keeping it level and it will prevent you from accidentally twisting the needle during removal


9) Remove the gauge face and reveal the white base with the plastic light distribution lens


10) Take care when you are removing the odometer LCD. When you separate the white base and the PCB, do it evenly so you won't damage the prongs.





Note:
- i found it easy to melt one side and carefully lift up that edge just enough to disengage. Then melt the other side to remove with tweezers.
- make sure you clean all old solder off the pads using the wick or solder sucker
- flux each pad
- Tin the pads
- The notch on the LED is the cathode. On the cluster, it has arrows to identify the direction you should place the LED.
- make sure you clean any extra flux off the PCB by using the contact cleaner sprayed on a q-tip after you attach the LED.

Pay close attention to the LCD odometer. Make sure you don't get any fingerprints on the leads or bend the leads when re-inserting the LCD into the PCB.
Once you're done, reassemble in reverse order.

Absolutely fantastic! Thank you very much! I hope it's not too much different for a limited.

I only know one other person who's done this on the 4Runner and he has a sport too. I suspect that the limited speedo will have 3 LED's spread out on the face and 3 LED to light up the needle (similar to the taco's since thier needles light up a diff color than the cluster).

Make sure to take pics.

Good luck.

Kevin

Darkie, thanks for posting the missing steps I really appreciated!

Hi Darkie3495, i'm just cusrious, is there suppose to be more to instructions for HVAC and Switches? Also how did you get the led into the resister? Does the Led have holes where you can just simply slide the wires into it? In your comment "Now you put the resistor on one side and a solid core wire on the other side and just wrap the ends around" I'm guessing you wrap the wires after you put in the leds? Please clarify. thanks.

I didn't include those steps intially. Here is a bit more detail after you take the bulb out of the bulb holder:
1. After you remove the bulb from the bulb holder, you can see that the holder has 2 holes in the center.
2. Thread the resistor through the top and one of the holes.
3. With the end of the resistor sticking out of the bottom, wrap the wire around one end of the holder the same way the original bulb did (there are channels to help this process)
4. clip the excess wire after you wrap.
5. repeat steps 2-4 for the solid core wire.
6. resistor and solid core wire are now exposed on the top of the bulb holder - Picture 5 above
7. position the bulb holder with the exposed leads in the helping hands or something similiar.
8. position the LED in the other helping hand at a 45degree angle to the exposed bulb holder leads so the positive end of the LED is touching the resistor lead and the negative is touching the solid core wire.
9. solder both sides.
10. clip the excess (last pic above).

Hopefully that answers your question. i wrapped the wire and resistor first because it makes it easier to solder the led to both leads when they are stuck in the holder.

One thing i think i forgot to mention is that the bulb holder for the HVAC that are much taller than the switch holders need to be hollowed out a bit for this to work. the theory is still the same, but you just have to take the extra step. I'll try and take a picture of the bulb holder this weekend.

Thanks darkie, by the way, I notice on the solid core wire in bulb holder, there is a black thingy on the base. what is that?

Darkie,

I found a lead what appears to have resister already attached to the lead. below is the link. do you think this one will work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/20x-3mm-White-Wi...3A1%7C294%3A50

The black thing is just a little bit of the wire jacket i left on there. it's the same length as the resistor. not really necessary but i like things even (OCD)

The ebay link shows an LED alone. no resistor attached. it looks like they'll send you free resistors though. if you are looking for ones with the resistor already attached, then search for 12v pre-wired LED's. the only issue i see with this route is that it may be a little long for the bulb holders.

if i find time this weekend, i'll take apart one of my bulbs and take more detailed pics of the process.

S-one, i have limited too and there are total of 36 leds. I didn't have enough so i had to order more.

Darkie3495, i just wanted to say thanks for all your help. The fork is pretty nifty. One comment when using the fork, I would tape the bottom of the fork to prevent contact from metal shaft.