06-27-2009, 12:50 AM
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#16
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Chris, no it does not work like that for me. Each maplight when pressed in works just like factory.
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06-27-2009, 07:45 AM
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#17
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Hmmm... Interesting. Thank-you for the reply. A few more days have passed since I did the mod. Still no issues other than being slightly different than yours.
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Chris
07 Salsa SR5, 4wd Cyclone pre-cleaner , Aux Transmission Cooler, Hidden Hitch 70779 (600/6000lbs, WDH=730/7300lbs), AirLift 1000, FJCruiser front springs (& now rear too!), Axle Vent Mod, Swaybar Bushing Upgrade, V6 Tick Reduction, VSC off mod, Maplight Mod, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler SAs, Tailpipe Mod
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06-27-2009, 04:54 PM
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#18
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The only thing I can think of is that when you inserted the wire into the unused area of the driver side maplight switch, it may be touching the prong next to it. When you depress the driver maplight that prong gets grounded and brings the ground to the ILE wire which ultimately is connected to all the other lights. Since all the lights have a positive wire connected to them already when they get this ground they light up. But like you said it can be thought of as an extra bonus feature 
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06-27-2009, 05:04 PM
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#19
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Chris
07 Salsa SR5, 4wd Cyclone pre-cleaner , Aux Transmission Cooler, Hidden Hitch 70779 (600/6000lbs, WDH=730/7300lbs), AirLift 1000, FJCruiser front springs (& now rear too!), Axle Vent Mod, Swaybar Bushing Upgrade, V6 Tick Reduction, VSC off mod, Maplight Mod, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler SAs, Tailpipe Mod
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06-28-2009, 03:33 PM
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#20
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Banned
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J.A. is the man! 
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06-28-2009, 08:23 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally posted by CJ3Flyr
Thanks, I'll look at that. I'm ok with real and purposeful connections. Electrical connections that consist of 1 or 3 strands of wire scare me. That's how stuff burns up
If that's what's happening I may try to come up with a positive, secure connection to retain my extra feature
EDIT: That's exactly what was going on... The wire I pushed in was making contact with the center lead on the switch. It was occurring internally within the switch, not externally. At a later date I'll go back and modify so it works as it did when I first did the mod.
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Interesting, was the issue that the stripped portion of the wire inserted into the unused hole on the switch too long? My stripped area was about 1/2" in legnth.
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06-29-2009, 10:51 AM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally posted by J.A.
Interesting, was the issue that the stripped portion of the wire inserted into the unused hole on the switch too long? My stripped area was about 1/2" in legnth.
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Yes, maybe. I might have been a little longer than 1/2". Another factor was I hadn't twisted the strands ideally. I think one or two strands 'got away' and made the jump to the center pin.
In a perfect world (ie not separated from the vast majority of my tools) I would tin the wire with a soldering iron.
Thanks again.
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07 Salsa SR5, 4wd Cyclone pre-cleaner , Aux Transmission Cooler, Hidden Hitch 70779 (600/6000lbs, WDH=730/7300lbs), AirLift 1000, FJCruiser front springs (& now rear too!), Axle Vent Mod, Swaybar Bushing Upgrade, V6 Tick Reduction, VSC off mod, Maplight Mod, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler SAs, Tailpipe Mod
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12-25-2009, 12:25 PM
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#23
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Hell ya
Mod worked for me. I did the "A" pillar. Once I figured out which wire to use, it went smooth.
Well done for posting this info.
thx
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01-04-2010, 09:20 PM
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#24
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This might be a stupid question, but I want to do this mod using the A pillar. What do you use/ how you 'tap into the wire' in there? Do you need to solder this connection?
Also, if I use this A pillar method, I won't have to take apart the dash or install a switch, right?
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01-04-2010, 10:49 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyg
This might be a stupid question, but I want to do this mod using the A pillar. What do you use/ how you 'tap into the wire' in there? Do you need to solder this connection? Solder is probably best but high quality tap-in connectors are probably ok as the connection is protected from the elements.
Also, if I use this A pillar method, I won't have to take apart the dash or install a switch, right? The switch is additional to the basic mod. I did not install the switch and I haven't missed it. If you go in through the pillar no dash dis-assembly is required.
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Chris
07 Salsa SR5, 4wd Cyclone pre-cleaner , Aux Transmission Cooler, Hidden Hitch 70779 (600/6000lbs, WDH=730/7300lbs), AirLift 1000, FJCruiser front springs (& now rear too!), Axle Vent Mod, Swaybar Bushing Upgrade, V6 Tick Reduction, VSC off mod, Maplight Mod, 255/75/17 Goodyear Wrangler SAs, Tailpipe Mod
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01-07-2010, 12:24 PM
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#26
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Thanks for answering
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01-30-2010, 06:19 PM
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#27
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hey guys,
is it possible to use a wire tap to tap the center wire on the ribbon cable running down the a pillar?
thanks
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01-31-2010, 08:01 PM
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#28
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i just did this mod. I split center wire out of the the ribbon using a utility knife, used a wire stripper on the middle wire, opened up a 1/8 inch section, hand twisted the new wire into it and electrical taped it all back together. I think it would have been a little neater with a wire tap, but once it was all taped and put back together, no one will ever know. One observation though, my map lights don't fire at the exact same time. Passenger side is a fraction of a second slower than the driver side. Is this how everyone else's work?
Edit: I also think a wire tap would make it difficult to reassemble the bundle of wires. I am happy with what I chose to do.
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02-01-2010, 01:17 PM
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#29
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Bump...anyone have any comments on my delayed map lights firing? I am thinking about shorting the wire feeding the slower bulb just a hair. Maybe the current gets to that side a fraction of a second slower?
Thanks
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02-01-2010, 01:22 PM
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#30
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Another idea is to swap the leds and see if the driver side fires slower...
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