I just wanted to chime in and say that the rear end and transmission (A750) is the same between the 6 and 8. If you have a V6, add a V8-style frame mounted hitch and a transmission cooler and now you have everything except a few ft/lbs of torque. I wouldn't tow a huge amount of weight with a 4Runner regardless, but you can definitely add some changes to the V6 to close the gap to the V8's capacity which is mostly rated higher due to the trans cooler and hitch design, and less about the power (which isn't THAT much different). Though if you have an SR5 you might also want to upgrade to bigger brakes from the Limited/Sport or even 5th gen parts to help slow you down.

I haven’t read this whole thread since it spans about a decade.
But the V6 vs V8 for towing is much more about hitch and trans cooler than power.

All 4th gen V6’s are rated at 5,000lbs towing. They all had the lighter duty hitch and no aux trans cooler.

The V8 was rated at either 5,000 or 7,000lbs towing. The 5,000lb rated V8’s were setup the same as the V6’s from what I’ve seen and read.
The 7,000lb rated V8’s had the heavier duty, weight distributing hitch and an aux trans cooler.

The frame is the same, brakes are the same, transmission is the same (except 03-04 V6 with 4spd), and rear end is the same.

The power difference between the two is negligible.
I know that is debatable on how they feel and people have varying opinions on that, but I’m taking purely the numbers.

V6- 245 HP, 282 ft/lb torque
V8-
03-04: 235 HP, 320 ft/lb torque
05-09: 270 HP, 330 ft/lb torque, later adjusted to 260HP , 306 ft/lb torque

The extra 2,000lbs in towing capacity doesn’t come from a few more HP and about 35ft/lb tq (although it certainly doesn’t hurt), it comes from the hitch and the trans cooler basically.

So long story short, a V6 with an aux cooler and an updated class 3 hitch should be rated the same (or very similar) to the V8’s with so many similarities.

I've had a 2003 4runner with the V8 and it towed my boat to the lake with no issues. Can't say that with my 2019 4runner as I no longer have the boat. I know towing the boat with my FJ was not as much fun. Get the V8 you'll be glad you did.

The only way the V8 can tow 7000 lbs properly is with a WDH (Weight Distributing Hitch) this is per the Toyota 4Runner Owner's Manual, otherwise the V8 is only rated to tow 5000 lbs, the WDH is a separate device and not the HD V8 hitch that comes on the V8 equipped 4Runners, the WDH attaches to the trailer tongue and then hooks on the trailer ball, it has to be adjusted/setup correctly with the trailer hooked up to the vehicle to work properly, what the WDH does is transfers some of the tongue weight to the front of the vehicle VIA the frame and thusly helps level out the vehicle, research WDH on the internet and you will understand much better how they work!!

You are correct however that if you install the HD V8 hitch on a V6 4Runner it can also tow up to 7000 lbs....IF....you also use a WDH.

And also as mentioned it would be wise to install the transmission cooler to help keep the transmission from overheating, but even then I would recommend being able to monitor the transmission temperature in real time and not rely on the transmission temperature light, once it comes on you're already got the transmission too hot in most all instances.

I have installed a class 3 hitch and utilize a weight distribution hitch on my 3,000lb camper, so I do understand how all that works.

I may have worded it incorrectly but I believe Toyota refers to that heavier duty hitch as a Weight Distributing Hitch, meaning you are able to utilize a WDH with that setup. That’s confusing because like you said, WDH is a totally different contraption.
I could be wrong on the way they word/name that, maybe I’m remembering that completely wrong.

Bottom line is there are two hitches that were available on a 4Runner, the light duty hitch that is bolted to the rear crossmember (which all V6’s have and some V8’s have) and the heavier duty one that actually bolts to the frame.

If you have the light duty one, 5,000lb rating, regardless of engine.
If you have the heavy duty one, 7,000lb rating, on a V8.

I don’t believe the heavy duty one was ever a factory option on the V6, thus the 5,000lb rating on them all.
But they’re easily added to the V6 since it’s the same vehicle, frame, etc.

Agreed on the rest though, I installed an aux trans cooler, a brake controller, and scangauge to monitor the exact trans temp in real time along with the class 3 hitch I mentioned above on my V6.
I also went with URD headers, URD MAF calibrator and AFE intake to give it a bit more power too. So in reality my setup is going to be even closer to what the V8’s were rated at for power.

My camper is maybe 3,300lbs fully loaded in the summer and the 4Runner tows it well. No it’s not as good as a Tundra would be, but it’s totally fine for the handful of trips we take it on in the summer, all within a max of 4 hours from our home.
If I were towing all the time or for longer distances, I’d probably opt for a Tundra as a tow vehicle though just because it’d do it effortlessly.

I'm wrong on saying the V6 can also tow 7000 LBS if it uses a WDH, the 2005 owner's manual says it can only tow 6400 LBS for the 4WD and 6700 LBS for the 2WD when using a WDH.

Copy and paste from the 2005 Owner's Manual taken from Toyota Owners website...

"Towing capacity (trailer weight + cargo
weight), kg (lb.):
For weight carrying hitch 2268 (5000)
Also for weight distributing hitch
1GR−FE engine
Two−wheel drive models
3042 (6700)
Four−wheel drive models
2906 (6400)
2UZ−FE engine
Two−wheel drive models
3311 (7300)
Four−wheel drive models
3175 (7000)"

Thanks, I had actually just gone out to my car to get the 4Runner manual to look also.

One thing I’m seeing is that they call that light duty hitch a “weight carrying hitch” and the heavier duty one a “weight distributing hitch”.

I’m reading between the lines a little bit, but I don’t think this is saying you have to use a weight distribution setup (torsion bar contraption we’re both talking about) to achieve this rating. I think they are just saying their heavier duty hitch distributes the weight of the trailer more between the frame rails since that’s what it’s bolted to. And it’s also what is needed to utilize a weight distribution setup.
The “weight carrying hitch” doesn’t distribute the weight between the frame rails as well since it’s bolted to the rear cross member, which is a lot lighter duty than the main part of the frame. It “carries” the weight more than “distributes” it. A weight distribution setup is not able to be used on a weight carrying hitch, since it won’t distribute the weight properly to the frame.

I don’t think the WDH with torsion bars, anti sway, etc, can actually add anything to the tow rating. It just makes it safer to tow whatever weight you’re towing.

Who woulda thought to read the owners manual and actually learn something 😀.
I didn’t realize that the V6 with the heavy duty hitch was officially rated at 6,400lbs per the owners manual, that makes a lot more sense vs the 7,000lb rating of the V8, since there are so many similarities between the two.

Sorry, don’t mean to come off argumentative in any way, I think all this is interesting and I think this did clarify some stuff.

I have some more opinions on this but I'm on the east coast and it's past my bedtime, 5:00 AM seems to come earlier and earlier as I get older!

I'll reply some more after work tomorrow.

It looks like I'm towing my travel trailer wrong then...I have a 06' V6 4x4 with a WDH Equalizer 6000lb setup and a 3800lb dry weight trailer. I guess the WDH hitch setup on the V8's helps distribute the load better to the front of the vehicle thru the frame.

I don't have an issue driving with the sway control but I don't want hurt anything. How dangerous is it to drive like this?

Anyone have a used V8 receiver setup in the Toronto area?

Yes the V8 hitch actually attaches to the main frame rails, the V6 hitch only attaches to the rear center cross member which isn't all that heavy duty.

You don't actually need to get the Toyota OEM V8 hitch, any good brand class 3 hitch will give you the same results as long as it attaches to the main frame rails, which most all of them do.

Not sure what to tell you on using a WDH with the V6 hitch, it could be fine or maybe not.

I have towed over 50,000 miles with my 08 v8 sr5 I drag race all over. Been as far as Florida, Indiana more times than I can remember, etc. All car trailers, up to 24 feet long enclosed 7,000 lbs plus on just about all the trips longest was my Ma to bradenton FL trip this january. The WDH is a must as is sway control, good brake controller, and mirror extentions. On a 20 foot open featherlite trailer, you can get away without the mirrors. Air up those 4runner tires too, you would be putting them through more work and heat.

A scanguage too, is great to monitor all those temps that you should be looking at......tire, tranny, coolant, etc. So when you drive over a nail in the BronX like I did towing my kids minicooper and household stuff to virginia, you get over asap, pull it, plug it and air it up......shouldn't come as a shock that you should have plugs, pliers and a dependable source of air when you tow...or travel in general.

I don't know too much about horse trailers, but my gut tells me you would be better served with a longer wheelbase like a tundra, than the 4runner, but in a pinch, not going on highways, with wdh, sway, good condition trailer(axles and tires and brakes), it shouldn't be too bad unless your cargo(horses) start panicking, then you might be regretting it big time.

The lack of the wdh, and the tow package for the 6 makes its adequate for carrying anything but the smallest of loads, and due to the torque curve, likely going to get worse MPG than the v8 while towing.

As previously stated, braking is a weak spot. The size of the trailers brakes really becomes important, and upgrading the fronts to 5th gen would help, staying focused, and keeping an eye out for tractor trailers(you will feel them before you see them most often) Stay in the right lane, speed 55-65 max....MPG go in the absolute toliet once it downshifts out of OD, for the v8 under 2,000 rpm is the sweet spot.

Change out every fluid......diffs, transfer case, tranny, power steering, fresh oil and filter.

4runners are not optimal for towing, but the short wheelbase, and with the v8 full time 4wheel drive, they are about as good as it gets for the size.

Eric

Another realworld consideration is the tonque weight of the trailer.......the shorter car trailers I have towed, 18 foot and 20 foot have had much higher tonque weights and haven't been as easy to tow, its total distributed weight that matters for towing.

The more I think about it if the tonque weight is substantial, you may need a class 5 hitch, which is dually land for the most part.

Good luck and be careful while trying to move precious cargo.

Eric

Thanks for the input Skip! I am actively looking for a V8 hitch now, and have priced out a uHaul one as well.

Looks like this one will work, however it doesn't attach to the rear crossmember like the OEM V8 hitch does.

Attached Images

 

That U-Haul hitch is only rated for 5500lbs Max even with a WDH it seems, I wouldn't get that one, check a for a Draw Tite Class 3 Hitch, I think they're rated for 6000lbs and up to 7300lbs with a WDH.

I doubt you'll find a after market hitch that attaches to both the main frame and the cross member.

Check savage yards for a OEM V8 hitch.

Agree with Auseeker, I wouldn’t go that uhaul hitch route, check for a V8 hitch from a wrecking yard or go with this one:

2005 Toyota 4Runner Trailer Hitch - Draw-Tite