01-30-2019, 05:55 PM
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#31
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Location: Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambie
Thank you for this feedback! I hate to question these professionals but am a social worker so don't have loads of money to put into my car. I liked that this mechanic took pictures of what they saw and included it in the inspection.
Not sure if this is the right place to ask this but, one of the things they said was also an issue is my "right valve cover gasket" is creating engine leaks. Here's the quote for that job:
Job06: VALVE COVER GASKET(S), R&R
Labor: $257.60
PARTS CLEANER 1.0 @ 4.32 =$ 4.32
Valve Cover Gasket-Lef 1.0 @ 29.24 =$ 29.24
Valve Cover Gasket-Rig 1.0 @ 24.02 =$ 24.02
Spark Plug Tube Seal 8.0 @ 4.76 =$ 38.08
Valve Cover O-Ring Set 1.0 @ 53.31 =$ 53.31 148.97
Job Subtotal: $406.57
Is $406.57 reasonable for this repair? Also, when I talk to them, how do I tell them that these prices seem high because they definitely know I don't know anything about cars?
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I missed which engine you have, but NAPA repair estimator says that is about right if you have the v6. I live about an hour north of Seattle though, so your results might be different if you want to try it out.
NAPA AutoCare Car & Auto Repair Estimator | NAPA AutoCare
Either way you should call around to dealers or independent shops and ask what they would charge to replace both valve cover gaskets.
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01-30-2019, 05:58 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,181
Real Name: Ron
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I just noticed he's quoting doing both gaskets (which is a good idea, even though they may not both be leaking - yet). Given that, the labor quote is probably pretty reasonable.
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2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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01-30-2019, 05:59 PM
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#33
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Portland, OR
Age: 38
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Real Name: Amber
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Location: Portland, OR
Age: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonJR
I just noticed he's quoting doing both gaskets (which is a good idea, even though they may not both be leaking - yet). Given that, the labor quote is probably pretty reasonable.
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Any reason the mechanic would have a reasonable price for the gaskets and too high of an estimate for the shocks/struts?
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01-30-2019, 06:02 PM
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#34
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Location: Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hinmo24t
the kyb someone mentioned are in my truck now and they are awesome! under $300. amazon etc.
good luck.
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Did you replace them yourself? I'm looking at this KYB set on RockAuto. $273 for front and rear with the front shock/spring preassembled. Seems like a good deal.
More Information for KYB 2SR4131344410
Did yours come pre-assembled? I've seen threads on here about installing shocks/springs without a spring compressor tool because it can be dangerous. I'm wondering if it's possible to install the pre-assembled shock/spring or if I would just end up taking it apart to install it.
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01-30-2019, 06:13 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Colorado
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Real Name: Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambie
Any reason the mechanic would have a reasonable price for the gaskets and too high of an estimate for the shocks/struts?
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After looking at that NAPA repair estimator, he looks high for the valve cover gaskets (on a V8) as well. Apparently the V6 takes more time and comes up with a higher estimate.
You need to ask how he calculates labor, and where he is buying parts. If he's getting OEM (Toyota) parts, they'll be more expensive, but they'll be good. Aftermarket parts are cheaper, but generally not as guaranteed quality. His parts prices suggest reasonably good quality after-market parts.
May be worth taking it to a second shop to get another quote.
__________________
2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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01-30-2019, 06:21 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Colorado
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Real Name: Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djpope09
Did yours come pre-assembled? I've seen threads on here about installing shocks/springs without a spring compressor tool because it can be dangerous. I'm wondering if it's possible to install the pre-assembled shock/spring or if I would just end up taking it apart to install it.
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If they are pre-assembled, you leave them that way, and you also take the old ones off without disassembling them. The key is DO NOT take the center top nut off. The assembly will fly apart with great force if you remove that nut without having the strut safely constrained by a spring compressor or other mechanism. You only want to remove the three outside top nuts, and the lower shock mount to get the old one out. (Plus whatever you have to do with the brake lines and sway bar to wiggle the strut out.)
With the top nut in place, the strut is perfectly safe.
__________________
2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
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01-30-2019, 06:49 PM
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#37
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Location: Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonJR
If they are pre-assembled, you leave them that way, and you also take the old ones off without disassembling them. The key is DO NOT take the center top nut off. The assembly will fly apart with great force if you remove that nut without having the strut safely constrained by a spring compressor or other mechanism. You only want to remove the three outside top nuts, and the lower shock mount to get the old one out. (Plus whatever you have to do with the brake lines and sway bar to wiggle the strut out.)
With the top nut in place, the strut is perfectly safe.
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Thanks for the input Ron. That makes perfect sense. There's a great thread on here that covers all the other bits that need to come off to replace them. With that and your input this shouldn't be too difficult.
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01-30-2019, 09:58 PM
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#38
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Portland, OR
Age: 38
Posts: 8
Real Name: Amber
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Parts and labor
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonJR
I just noticed he's quoting doing both gaskets (which is a good idea, even though they may not both be leaking - yet). Given that, the labor quote is probably pretty reasonable.
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So I asked the shop about how they calculate labor and they said they use a national guide called All Data - for complex jobs it’s $112/hr and he said it’s less for smaller jobs like fluids. The valve cover gaskets, struts and shocks are all OEM.
Of the long list of things he sent in the estimate, the things I actually “need” are:
Engine Air filter $56
Valve Cover Gaskets $406.57
Throttle Body $138.72
Brake System Flush $87.60
Power Steering Flush $110.95
Seem reasonable?
In regards to the struts/shocks, he said it’s more about comfort. It costs so much because the front strut suspension is laborious though the rear shocks are easier, and the alignment is just part of doing struts/shocks = $1397.47
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01-30-2019, 10:21 PM
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#39
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 135
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I wouldn't worry about the valve cover gasket unless it is leaking profusely - and an Autozone or O'reillys Auto clerk would probably change your air filter for you for free if you buy the part there - $20 - just an idea - it's really easy to do. What do you need the throttle body cleaned for? You shouldn't need it - the brake and power steering flush seems good - but be sure they use recommended fluids in the manual - I believe your power steering fluid should be "ATF" - Automatic Transmission Fluid - NOT power steering fluid - check the manual. Most shops don't pay attention to the manual.
You can replace all shocks and springs for about $325 + labor - via KYB shocks which are essentially OEM shocks - I have a post where I show prices for a 4wd rig - 2wd components are below. You can get an alignment, at Toyota, for $89 + tax last I checked. Toyota Service Dept. would probably install your shocks and springs for 2-4hrs of labor, with you providing the parts - may be worth a call to their Service Dept.
You are far better off, buying the parts yourself and then having a shop install them, provided they don't have a problem with that - labor should not be more than 2-4 hrs for changing all shocks and springs - no matter where you go. KYB Shocks & Springs from RockAuto are about $325 shipped to you if you use a discount code of 5% which can be found via a google search :
Quote:
Originally Posted by ambie
So I asked the shop about how they calculate labor and they said they use a national guide called All Data - for complex jobs it’s $112/hr and he said it’s less for smaller jobs like fluids. The valve cover gaskets, struts and shocks are all OEM.
Of the long list of things he sent in the estimate, the things I actually “need” are:
Engine Air filter $56
Valve Cover Gaskets $406.57
Throttle Body $138.72
Brake System Flush $87.60
Power Steering Flush $110.95
Seem reasonable?
In regards to the struts/shocks, he said it’s more about comfort. It costs so much because the front strut suspension is laborious though the rear shocks are easier, and the alignment is just part of doing struts/shocks = $1397.47
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New Daily Driver - 2006 4runner Limited Galactic Grey V8 4x4 -291K miles and counting - STOCK Driveline - New Audio Setup.
2007 Lexus GX470 - Stock, 56K miles - Sold
2004 Black Sport V8 4x4 - Made Limited- 141k miles Sold
2003 Grey Sport V8 4x4 - Sold - 1st 2UZ owned
Last edited by WOLVERINE; 01-30-2019 at 10:35 PM.
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01-30-2019, 10:44 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: NV
Posts: 69
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'04 base SR5, V8, 35K miles, 100% stock. Michelin LTX M/S 2 tires. I replaced all 4 dampers due to age not millage with Bilstein and very happy. Ride is very smooth, comfortable and decent handling.
My previous SUV had stiffer springs than my current 4R. Most likely similar to an fJ. Replaced all with Bilstein as well and handling was amazing.
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01-31-2019, 11:26 AM
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#41
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Houston, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WOLVERINE
I wouldn't worry about the valve cover gasket unless it is leaking profusely - and an Autozone or O'reillys Auto clerk would probably change your air filter for you for free if you buy the part there - $20 - just an idea - it's really easy to do. What do you need the throttle body cleaned for? You shouldn't need it - the brake and power steering flush seems good - but be sure they use recommended fluids in the manual - I believe your power steering fluid should be "ATF" - Automatic Transmission Fluid - NOT power steering fluid - check the manual. Most shops don't pay attention to the manual.
You can replace all shocks and springs for about $325 + labor - via KYB shocks which are essentially OEM shocks - I have a post where I show prices for a 4wd rig - 2wd components are below. You can get an alignment, at Toyota, for $89 + tax last I checked. Toyota Service Dept. would probably install your shocks and springs for 2-4hrs of labor, with you providing the parts - may be worth a call to their Service Dept.
You are far better off, buying the parts yourself and then having a shop install them, provided they don't have a problem with that - labor should not be more than 2-4 hrs for changing all shocks and springs - no matter where you go. KYB Shocks & Springs from RockAuto are about $325 shipped to you if you use a discount code of 5% which can be found via a google search :
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Wolverine, do those front coilovers come assembled?
If so, then Ambie, this should also reduce the labor costs as well. The job would become remove the old coilover and replace with the new rather than remove the old coilover, compress the spring, remove the old shock, replace with the new shock, decompress the spring then replace the coilover.
And there should be no labor charge to replace the engine air filter. The tools needed are opposable thumbs and about 60 seconds of spare time. Any quote for an air filter should be parts only.
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Houston, TX - 2007 2wd Limited Build Thread
Dobinsons 296/220 front and 505/705 rear, Graphite Tundra split spokes, 5th gen Tube Running Boards
Sold '02 Sport Edition
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01-31-2019, 11:32 AM
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#42
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: New Mexico
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That's correct, they do, as pictured - a reason I am recommending this route - labor should be no more than 2-4 hrs - no part assembly required.
This is the most economical route, while most closely mimicking stock ride quality, with essentially OEM part performance and longevity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacob7071
Wolverine, do those front coilovers come assembled?
If so, then Ambie, this should also reduce the labor costs as well. The job would become remove the old coilover and replace with the new rather than remove the old coilover, compress the spring, remove the old shock, replace with the new shock, decompress the spring then replace the coilover.
And there should be no labor charge to replace the engine air filter. The tools needed are opposable thumbs and about 60 seconds of spare time. Any quote for an air filter should be parts only.
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__________________
New Daily Driver - 2006 4runner Limited Galactic Grey V8 4x4 -291K miles and counting - STOCK Driveline - New Audio Setup.
2007 Lexus GX470 - Stock, 56K miles - Sold
2004 Black Sport V8 4x4 - Made Limited- 141k miles Sold
2003 Grey Sport V8 4x4 - Sold - 1st 2UZ owned
Last edited by WOLVERINE; 01-31-2019 at 11:35 AM.
Reason: Added Data
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02-01-2019, 03:50 PM
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#43
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djpope09
Did you replace them yourself? I'm looking at this KYB set on RockAuto. $273 for front and rear with the front shock/spring preassembled. Seems like a good deal.
More Information for KYB 2SR4131344410
Did yours come pre-assembled? I've seen threads on here about installing shocks/springs without a spring compressor tool because it can be dangerous. I'm wondering if it's possible to install the pre-assembled shock/spring or if I would just end up taking it apart to install it.
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i didnt install them but yes the preassembly lets you install them yourself far more easily and safely. they feel incredible and even level out the front (1" lift). i have a thread on them if you look up my 'started threads' 'does my truck look stock height'
-tom
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