The panel is not that bad. But it's been 1.5 years since this last post so your post is..... ????

CEH in MD

That's what the search function is for? Did something change in 1.5 years?

How did you attach the Alpine amp to the subwoofer enclosure?
Thanks


Also, is it possible to use the stock amp and subwoofer with an aftermarket HU on a non-JBL truck?

Resurrecting an old thread.

I've read all the pages and I have a setup I want to go with. My only issue is the amount of excursion that the sub I'm looking at has. I'm not sure when the box and side panel are back in place if the sub cone will hit or not.

The sub I'm looking at is Skar Audio - VD-8 | 8" 600 Watt Max Power Subwoofer (Shallow Mount)
I'll be using this amp to power it:Power 750 Watt Class-bd Mono Amplifier | Rockford Fosgate (R)

Mounting depth is under 4" so it will fit with modifications to the stock box (cutting out the ribs inside). I'm fiber glassing the outside of the box to help stiffen it up.

The sub total height is 4.88" and that's my concern. I'm not sure if cone will hit the plastics or not.

Thoughts?

IIRC, usable depth of the factory box is about 4.25" so you probably won't need to do any internal trimming just for fitment. Might not hurt to do a little for the sake of some added breathing room, though, since that Skar has venting for the voice coil on its backplate.

For clearance to the trim panel, I think you're good there, too. The R-F P3SD2 that may of us have used has a similar profile with .9" of flange/surround height compared to .94" for the Skar. A surround doesn't move the same distance as Xmax, but even there, the R-F is comparable to the Skar at 8.3mm vs 10.25mm.

Thanks for the info. I didn't think it would hit the plastics but it's so hard to measure out. Now if I can just find the sub to buy that would be helpful. My wife wants to put a Kicker Comp RT in there since it's easy but I've never heard one before and am not sure if it's worth the money.

So the wifes sub went out - well buzzing and clunking. She just wants me to replace it, just something I can plug up that is cheap, yeah I know, but its her car, Im just fixing her problem. Shes looking for something $50-60. Id like to use all the power of the two channels, but I need a dual voice for that, yes?
So do I use a single voice or dual voice, a 2ohm or 4ohm? Im stumped! Thanks!

I used Pioneer model TS-SW2002D2 8 inch shallow-mount.

I purchased it from Amazon but it appears to be no longer available.

Try crunchfield they might have it.

This sub was easy to install. There is a very detailed guide on this forum that I used to remove the panels without breaking any of the tabs.

I highly recommend using that guide for the installation.

good luck!

Will this work?

IX8 D2 8 300 Watt Max Power Dual 2 Ohm Car Subwoofer - Newegg.com

If not confused about - So do I use a single voice or dual voice, a 2ohm or 4ohm?

Looking for something $50-65

Or this, can i run 2ohm into 4ohm?
Mb Quart(R) Mb Quart(R) Discus Series 400-watt Shallow Subwoofer (8) - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

The OEM JBL subwoofer driver is an 8" dual 2 ohm voice coil driver. So, to maximize the output and give you the best chance of having the output balanced with the main speakers, your best bet is to use an 8" 2 ohm DVC driver. Going with a single voice coil or 4 ohm drivers will significantly reduce the power drawn from the amp.

Some thought also needs to be given to the size of enclosure that is optimal for the chosen driver. The JBL enclosure is .6 ft^3 sealed. Not all drivers like the same volume of airspace. Most likely, you'll find most manufacturers recommending volumes much lower than .6 for an 8" driver. They're trying to maximize power handling...smaller boxes generally handle more power, all else being equal. With only about 20 watts per coil of clean power on hand, you're not terribly worried about over powering the replacement sub.

Otherwise, you also need to be concerned with mounting depth. IIRC, there's about 4" maybe 4.25" of mounting depth available. Search the forums...someone's probably posted photos with measurements.

Actually, search is your best friend, regardless. You can either find the drivers others, like myself, have replaced it with. Then, either pick one of those drivers or find something with similar dimensions and specs.

To keep this old thread alive, I bit the bullet on a new subwoofer. Why I waited so long is another story. I've had all the other recommended models in my Amazon cart forever, hoping for a price drop. Boy, was I wrong. I could not bring myself to drop $200 on a subwoofer. It's just not in my DNA.

I ordered this exact Skar model. I installed it today. I followed the beautiful step by step instructions on this forum and some YouTube videos as well. It would have been done in just under two hours. I was working slowly, methodically, labeling everything I took out and in what order just so I wouldn't screw up.
My old sub essentially disintegrated when I took the trim off.

Would have been done in under two hours. It does NOT fit in the box without modifications. I am ashamed, I should have taken a side by side photo with the original sub. I hacked at it for 30 minutes with the Dremel before my SO took over with his wood chisels (they're his pride and joy and kept razor sharp.) They took out the ribbing in no time, like cutting through butter. In the end, it was done as best we could manage and it ... Fits. I drilled new holes and it's in and works. The quality is what I expect (see: not sounded like it's about to explode) for the price I paid. I'm happy with it and I would recommend it, with the caveat it will NOT be a plug and play situation. You WILL need to trim out ALL the plastic ribbing where the sub will go. If you're ok with that, then go for.

Hopefully this, like all the other messages in this thread will help someone else they way the others helped me.

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