I believe most questions have been answered. 07-09 FJ shocks and springs are completely interchangeable. 2010 shocks require modification to fit, but to my knowledge the 2010 springs are a direct swap. I'd do 4wd springs, that's what helps the ride the most. With your setup, I'd say you'll get around 1" front and .25" rear lift from the FJ springs, on top of the lift from the 5100's. I'd do 5100's all around, and plus the FJ springs you'll be looking at right at 2" front lift and .25"ish rear, which should be pretty level. The front 5100's are adjustable up to 2.5", then add what you get from the FJ springs. You can add a rear spacer if you'd prefer more lift.

Its all coming together now. Thanks much!

I seems like you guys have a differing of opinions when it comes to how much it will raise the 4runner.
Ark - you are saying overall approx 2" front and .25" rear which will even out the stance.
B480 - you are saying this will raise the rear 2"? Seems like that thought would make it sit much higher in back than front?

If I understand correctly...the front height is adjusted by the shock. If I lifted to the point where the nose is higher than the rear, the rear would need the spacers to even it out. Not going to do it just knowledge.

If want to keep the lift to a minimum so that is my ultiamte goal. Dont want to mess with the camber/toe/control arms by going with too much of a lift. This my daily driver and my job requires driving around all day. This swap wont negatively affect the longevity of any other suspension/control items will it?

I will have it aligned as soon as the swap is done.

Also I would like to throw on a little bigger tire as well.

Ive also heard that replacing the sway bar bushings will help stability? Any thoughts on that?

I believe what B480 is saying is the the Bilstein 5100's will extend 2" further than the stock shocks, thus giving you more travel. This does not give lift, it simply effects the length that the shock will extend (flex).

You are right on the adjustment/spacers needed.

Anything 3" and under should be fine, plenty of guys have been running this amount of lift for quite a while with no negative issues. Alignment is recommended for sure, and bigger tires finish off the look.

Here's a good writeup on the swaybar bushings.

Ah ha. Thanks for clarification and the link. Seems you've answered most my questions on the threads..haha. Think Im gonna owe you a beer

Def want to do the tires shortly after. Any thought on what sizes are good? Im currently on 265/65/17. I know if you hit a certain point there will be tire rub (from what I understand you can put a wheel spacer on but not sure if there are any negatives to that - going to do some research) Was looking at the Falken Rocky Mountain or Nitto grabber/grappler

With just a leveling kit the popular choices are either 265/70/17 or 255/75/17. The 255 is a little taller and narrower than the 265. I chose the 255's because they were cheaper and don't hurt your gas mileage as much (mine's actually slightly better). With a little more lift you can run 275's and 285's, not real familiar with those except spacers are required (or offset wheels). As long as they are hub centric spacers (Spidertrax or All Pro are popular options). Not familiar with the Falken's, but the Nitto TG's have gotten good reviews from what I've seen. However, the Hankook ATM's have gotten better reviews overall, so that's what I went with after considering both. I'm very happy with mine, although I don't have much to compare to.

I went with the 265/70 which really seems to fill the wheel well and I've had no rubbing in the stock configuration. Next time, I think that I'll be going with the 255/75s based on all of the positive feedback. Once I install my lift with the wheel spacers, I'm sure that I'll need to do some trimming and repositioning of the fender liner.

As far as tires go... I've heard some negative comments on the Falkens and the tech at my local shop steered me away from them. Mostly good press on the Nittos, so you'd probably be good there. I love their new Trail Grappler... if I didn't live in icy conditions, I'd be all over those! So far, I've been quite happy with my Silent Armors.

~Doozi

I am a little hesitant to do the 255/75 due to the fact that im only going to have a slight lift. I def want to fill the well but dont want to rub bit. You're thougths are with the fj spring/5100's the 255/75 would clear (any trimming needed)?

What about running a 255/70/17? Found some hankook atm's for good price ($256/pr) on ebay...just browsing for future.

Sorry to get off topic form previous thread but kinda related.

Doozi - thanks for the input too! Was initailly leaning towards staying 265 wide...hmm!

I've just got 1.5" in the front and they clear, but barely. I moved the fender liner forward for safe measure, takes all of five minutes to do both sides. I've not been of road much though. CJ3Flyr haas a thread on them where several commented on the size. I'm posting from my phone so I can't post the link, you should be able to find it through a search though.

Hey Ark Swamp Rider I did not know you could move the fender liners forward mine are geting beat up how did you do it? Is there play in them? Thank you.

scroll down to where it talks about moving them forward Toyota 4Runner Wheel Spacers

Where did you get them for $320.00 shipped ??


Also I see you listed C475 for the fronts. When I checked www.wheelersoffroad.com they are showing C477. Any major differences ??

allshocks.com has them for $355 shipped right now.

Those are the right part numbers except the front has been changed to BE5-C475-H1

Ark - do I need anything else to do the fronts? Reading some links on your page says I need longer studs for top plate but I think that is only if you are using a spacer? Just want to be over precise
Do I need any new spacers/bushing/etc or can I just use all the stuff from the old shock/spring?

I re-used all of the stock components, with exception of the top plate studs. The spacer came with longer studs, they had to be used to fit the spacer. If you're not doing a spacer, you won't need anything at all other than the coil. The spacer you get will come with the longer studs if required.