11-05-2019, 12:30 PM
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#1396
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: NC
Posts: 759
Real Name: Michael
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Join Date: Dec 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JShipps
Hey John, your ride looks great! Did you happen to measure your before and after from hub to fender? I'm curious what kind of lift you ended up getting.
I went a different route for my suspension and got way more lift than I was expecting and I'm wondering if it's too much and I'll need to mess with a new UCA. I've already had my CV axle boot split, but that's not surprising on a rig with 160K on it.
People talk about needing new UCAs with a 3" or more lift, but that doesn't tell much when you're comparing to a saggy old suspension. What's the baseline for the 3" to start from? It seems like what I really need to know is, at what hub to fender measurement do I need to worry about new UCAs?
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It's more about the alignment. Once you can't get a good alignment anymore because of the height that when you need them
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Titanium Metallic 2006 Limited 4WD V8 | Doug Thorley "Premium" Long Tubes/Modded Ypipe | Magnaflow dual in/dual out | True Dual Exhaust | Fr: 5100/885/SPC R: Icon 2"/2nd gen links | 285/75R17 G003s | Sherpa Princeton | Baja Designs | 5th Gen Brakes | Everything else is in the Build Thread
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11-05-2019, 12:52 PM
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#1397
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That_Titanium_4RNR
It's more about the alignment. Once you can't get a good alignment anymore because of the height that when you need them
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Thanks. I had it aligned and they didn't say anything about any problems, so I assume it's OK. I attached a pic of my rig with the new suspension.
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11-05-2019, 04:52 PM
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#1398
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Earth, Central Oregun
Age: 53
Posts: 1,196
Real Name: Derek
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The more you lift these things, you more loose caster.
less caster=constant steering wheel input.
More caster=tracks better with less steering wheel input.
3.5* or more fixes that funky wandering feeling.
In the NW we use studded tires, makes big ruts in the pavement.
Low caster really suck in that sort of roadway. Constant user input...really sucks.
Caster improves the tracking of the T4R... less driver input.
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Some modifications.
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11-05-2019, 05:58 PM
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#1399
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Woodinville, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BackOff
3.5* or more fixes that funky wandering feeling.
Caster improves the tracking of the T4R... less driver input.
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Thanks Derek. I'm nowhere near 3.5. I'm at 1.3 and 1.39. But my steering feels fine. The specs say that 3.97 is the max. I guess we'll see how it settles in. Perhaps over time it'll feel like it's wandering more, but for now it feels great!
My only real concern is the CV axles. I've already replaced one and will probably need to do the other before long.
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11-05-2019, 06:11 PM
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#1400
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: NC
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Real Name: Michael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JShipps
Thanks Derek. I'm nowhere near 3.5. I'm at 1.3 and 1.39. But my steering feels fine. The specs say that 3.97 is the max. I guess we'll see how it settles in. Perhaps over time it'll feel like it's wandering more, but for now it feels great!
My only real concern is the CV axles. I've already replaced one and will probably need to do the other before long.
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UCAs won't affect anything related to CV wear just btw...Also "Max" is for factory suggested setting and also in the event that you are all stock suspension and wheel/tire, which you aren't. Don't worry about going over that caster number, it has no negative consequence. I believe my numbers are like 6+ and mine drives great
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Titanium Metallic 2006 Limited 4WD V8 | Doug Thorley "Premium" Long Tubes/Modded Ypipe | Magnaflow dual in/dual out | True Dual Exhaust | Fr: 5100/885/SPC R: Icon 2"/2nd gen links | 285/75R17 G003s | Sherpa Princeton | Baja Designs | 5th Gen Brakes | Everything else is in the Build Thread
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11-05-2019, 06:36 PM
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#1401
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Woodinville, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That_Titanium_4RNR
UCAs won't affect anything related to CV wear just btw...Also "Max" is for factory suggested setting and also in the event that you are all stock suspension and wheel/tire, which you aren't. Don't worry about going over that caster number, it has no negative consequence. I believe my numbers are like 6+ and mine drives great
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So pardon my ignorance, but it seems like you're saying that I can dictate what the alignment shop sets my alignment at. Is that correct? Or, are you setting it yourself? I just drove my rig to the alignment place and paid for an alignment. I didn't know I was supposed to tell them how I wanted it. I'm new to this stuff so still figuring it out.
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11-06-2019, 09:39 AM
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#1402
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: NC
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Real Name: Michael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JShipps
So pardon my ignorance, but it seems like you're saying that I can dictate what the alignment shop sets my alignment at. Is that correct? Or, are you setting it yourself? I just drove my rig to the alignment place and paid for an alignment. I didn't know I was supposed to tell them how I wanted it. I'm new to this stuff so still figuring it out.
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Well, with aftermarket UCAs you can get a more wide range of measurements thus allowing you to fine tune your specs.
Some with the SPC UCAs like me, have to set their preliminary alignment at home and then take it to the shop to get fine tuned.
Not all shops are aware of stuff like this. Most "Off-Road, or Custom" shops know stuff like this though if you can find a shop like that that will align you will be much better of in my experience.
This video should help.
YouTube
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Titanium Metallic 2006 Limited 4WD V8 | Doug Thorley "Premium" Long Tubes/Modded Ypipe | Magnaflow dual in/dual out | True Dual Exhaust | Fr: 5100/885/SPC R: Icon 2"/2nd gen links | 285/75R17 G003s | Sherpa Princeton | Baja Designs | 5th Gen Brakes | Everything else is in the Build Thread
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11-06-2019, 10:59 AM
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#1403
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: brooklyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crete01
Small update, ordered the 5100s and some other parts. Ended up getting the Moog FJ coils for the front, and the Moog T4R coils for the rear. Both arrived horribly packaged, with each coil having at least 10+ chipped sections throughout the powercoat or whatever the finish is. They are scratched to the point where it looks like they have almost been installed before. I've order paper towels that came with more protective packing...
Decided to return all of the coils, including the 1.5 rear spacer, and am going to bite the bullet and go for the T1/T12 coils, with only a 1/4" spacer on the FL to level out the driver's sag based on: . I thought about doing the OME stuff, but the heavier spring rate, combined with some comments around here about the valving for 5100s not playing the best pushed me towards the Wheeler's stuff.
Will update when everything arrives!
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sorry to bump your post from march, but how did this work out for you? interested in doing the same lift with the same equipment. thanks!
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11-07-2019, 03:09 PM
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#1404
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Maryland
Posts: 161
Real Name: John
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JShipps
Hey John, your ride looks great! Did you happen to measure your before and after from hub to fender? I'm curious what kind of lift you ended up getting.
I went a different route for my suspension and got way more lift than I was expecting and I'm wondering if it's too much and I'll need to mess with a new UCA. I've already had my CV axle boot split, but that's not surprising on a rig with 160K on it.
People talk about needing new UCAs with a 3" or more lift, but that doesn't tell much when you're comparing to a saggy old suspension. What's the baseline for the 3" to start from? It seems like what I really need to know is, at what hub to fender measurement do I need to worry about new UCAs?
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Thanks, with NEW OEM FJ shocks, coils and all compared to my XREAS was roughly 1 inch lift. That also include the skinny and a tad taller tires. The FJ Wheels also has a different offset so the tires and wheels come out a bit.
Yeah, I've read about new UCA when lifting over 3' as well. Sorry I can't help answer that question. I do vaguely reading talk about all that in the thread when I read through the whole F**ken thread. Where I can't remember now. Good luck
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2008 V6 4x4 Sports Edition / Build Thread/ FJ Off Road Package, 265/70/17, 2012 FJ Wheels, Husky Liner, LED bulbs, Spare Bumper -current////// SOLD Past vehicles:1996 V8 Landcruiser Rebuilt; 1988 Jeep Wrangler- 2 inch lift with 33' tires; 1976 Jeep CJ 7 (inline 6) - Frame off restoration
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02-11-2020, 12:08 PM
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#1405
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: CA
Posts: 12
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Great info on here regarding the whole 5100/FJ combo. I've notice a lot of height discrepancies when one states they are on FJ coils set at .85 (no spacers) and fj rears with 5100. Looking for a real mild lift but some of the infor here is misleading. 265/70/17 AT's are the plan for fitment on an after market wheel 17x8.5
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02-11-2020, 12:45 PM
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#1406
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 816
Real Name: Todd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koawood08
Great info on here regarding the whole 5100/FJ combo. I've notice a lot of height discrepancies when one states they are on FJ coils set at .85 (no spacers) and fj rears with 5100. Looking for a real mild lift but some of the infor here is misleading. 265/70/17 AT's are the plan for fitment on an after market wheel 17x8.5
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I have Moog 2007 FJ rear coils with no spacers and running, for now, 2017 Tacoma Bilstein rear shocks. Plenty of room with zero rubbing for my 265/70/17 Goodyear Wrangler UltraTerrains. Front are 2019 Tacoma Bilsteins with the Tacoma coils.
The Tacoma shocks are a little soft and I will probably change them out for 5100s sometime soon.
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2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 - Build thread on Tacoma World
FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
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03-04-2020, 07:19 PM
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#1407
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 101
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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FJ red bilstein TRD on 4th gen
Would the red Bilstein TRD offroad shocks allow me to stay at the factory height on my 2003 4Runner if I used my oem stock springs?
Toyota TRD FJ Cruiser Front Offroad Strut Absorbers Genuine OE OEM | eBay
Do I really need to replace my oem springs? I have 222,000 miles on it.
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03-04-2020, 09:06 PM
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#1408
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bkt4runner
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I had the same question when I did my suspension and concluded that I didn’t want to do the work and then always wonder how much better the ride would’ve been had I done the springs. So I did my research and learned that springs are a very underrated part of the suspension.
I think a lot of people spend money, sometimes a lot of it, on shocks but no springs, and then are disappointed with the ride. You have a 2003, so you’re riding around on metal that has carried a 4500 lb. SUV for 17 years on the equivalent of nine trips around the planet. They had a good run, but it’s time for new ones.
Check out the suspension link in my sig for a side-by-side pic of my stock 2007 springs versus FJ springs.
Last edited by Bluesky 07; 03-04-2020 at 09:15 PM.
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03-17-2020, 01:39 PM
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#1409
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: MT
Posts: 59
Real Name: Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon
Hmm, that's odd, because with my '06 V8, the front 5100 at 0.85 and Moog FJ
springs all around, running board is only 1/4" lower in the rear than front.
Now if I wanted to equalize the wheel gap (between top of tire and fender)
then I'd have to raise the front another full inch, but that definitely would
create a reverse rake at the running board (and almost everywhere else).
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Daemon, sorry for the massive 3 year resurrection, but what tire size are you running in the picture you shared (included in this post) ? Can you post an update on how it's sitting?
I'm asking because I am after a very similar setup on my 2006 V8 Limited, and I can't decide between the 0.85 perch or the 1.75 perch with the Moog FJ springs, which seem like they give more of a lift than the actual Toyota FJ spring take-offs. I'm planning on running 265/70r17 on Level 8 mk 6's...
If anyone has any advice or new images of a similar setup, I'd appreciate it - I've pretty much exhausted all searches and threads.
Daemon's setup in question below:
Last edited by MxwlT4R99; 03-17-2020 at 01:44 PM.
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04-14-2020, 01:00 PM
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#1410
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 58
Real Name: Ryan
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Been pouring over this topic for the last few weeks and had a question I can’t seem to find the answer to. So at the risk of sounding naive, has anyone used OME shocks and FJC coils?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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