Great write up. Mine would not latch. Lots of salt here in Rochester which is probably why mine went. Ordered the part for $200 with free shipping and arrived in three days. Took me 15 minutes to install. I unplugged the computer module in the liftgate while I swapped out the latch. Plugged everything back in and turned ignition to "ON". Gate closed and latched but would not open so I used the key in the liftgate and turned it to lock and unlock. Works perfectly now.

fukeneh! just found this thread after driving around for more than a month using a cord to open my back hatch. I replaced the latch unit a while back but then the door wouldn't open. just read this thread, unplugged the computer on the back hatch for about 10 seconds, plugged it back in and voila! thank you!

I had a problem with mine, as evidenced earlier, but then it miraculously started working again.

This time it is gone for good. Glad I found this old thread - took me forever - but I'm book marking it this time.

Glad I did a search or the computer thing would have been frustrating. Nothing worse than taking it to Toyota with your tail between you legs.

Someone asked what the string is for. After installing the replacement unit take the tape off but don't remove the string yet and keep the gate open.

After unplugging the computer the locking part worked but the unlock would not activate. You can use a screwdriver to press on the latch to make it lock. If it will not unlock you can pull on the string which is connected to the mechanical assembly to unlock it while you trouble shoot. Beats crawling into the back through the rear door.

I tried a few things and finally locked and unlocked all doors via remote starter and the unlock thing activated.

Awesome!

I have a similar problem with the hatch - where it would NOT lock.

I've read so much about the hatch NOT opening that I have a few questions about my problem - which is the opposite.

The locking mechanism costs $450 Cdn at the dealership and not sure how much the ECU costs. Since both parts are electrical/electronic - they won't take back the units if I swop out the parts and it doesn't solve my problem.

===The problem ===

2007 4Runner, driven in typical Canadian winters with lots of salt on the roads.

My back hatch/door will not stay locked.

I would close the door as usual and the door mechanism engages. So it seems. It closes the door normally by pulling it in the last few inches. Everything seems fine - UNTIL I gently lift the door. The door then opens.

Again, the locking mechanism pulls the door shut and engages, BUT it doesn't hold it (the door) in place. In fact, I drove out from a parking lot - and the hatch popped opened.

So -I'm thinking - it's either the locking mechanism (cost=$450) and/or the ECU unit (cost = ??).

I haven't had the chance to try connecting and disconnecting the power to the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) yet. It's minus 15C - so I'll wait till it warms up to try that.

If disconnecting and reconnecting the power to the ECU doesn't fix it, is there a way to determine if the problem is the locking mechanism - or - the ECU - WITHOUT having to buy the units to troubleshoot?

Does anyone have experience to tell which part is defective based on the above description?

Thanks in advance.

Doesn't sound like your issue is with the ECU because the mechanism is trying to work and latch the door. It just isn't mechanically holding the latch in the closed position. I think the prior post to yours can help you with some of the diagnosis.
Follow the post to expose the mechanism. Not sure of the details (maybe someone else will chime in) but "use a screwdriver to press on the latch to make it lock". This may help free it up or hold it temporarily until you replace the mechanism. Might be worth calling around the scrapyards or online is cheaper.
Keep us posted.

Thanks Kmvreter.

I had a chance to trouble shoot a bit more now that the weather has co-operated.

I removed the locking mechanism and cleaned up the dirt/oil/salts, etc.

I re-connected the mechanism to the ECU, but did not fully re-install the lock in place. I want to simulate the hatch closing by using a screwdriver and what the parts moving.

I moved the latch into a locking position - which simulates the hatch being closed. The motor was activated and it locks the latch into place.

HOWEVER, within a second the motor works again - and reverses the locking action! Essentially - the motor goes back into the hatch open position and unlocks the latch. That's why the hatch/door is able to be opened with a simple, light pull.

I read in the shop manual that if the ECU failed - it should produce an error code with the on board computer. So - I connected the CanOBD-2 code reader and found that there is no error code. This means - it must be the lock mechanism assembly.

So - I guess I take a chance and order it (PN 69110-35090) on line for $200 instead of buying it for $450 at the dealership.

Will let you know...

Great info on the tail gate, mine failed in the same way. However on the 2006 model there is a small cover which is left of the centre part on the trim panel, I removed that peeled back the plastic and took of the left side cover which you referred to as a possible cause, you mentioned that yours had come loose. I pushed down on the lever and and presto. After closing the tailgate I checked if it would open and sure enough it did.... So would recommend owners try this method prior to purchasing new mechanism.
Also and most important anyone who has not resolved the problem or does not have the small access panel on the interior gate trim they should consider the consequences of a flat tyre since the the wind down access hole is only accessible with the tail gate open, this freaked me out which is what prompted me to find an alternative method to opening the tailgate, I guess if you did not have the access panel once the trim is removed you could make a small whole after careful measuring in the trim panel and save some moola

Thx, this would be helpful in the future

Just wanted to say I just did this lock replacement on my 4runner. Thanks to this thread it was a very simple job. Took approximately 20 min. I did the rear window re learn procedure and the lock worked perfectly afterwards.

[QUOTE=mjlmjl;1334827]Thanks Kmvreter.

I had a chance to trouble shoot a bit more now that the weather has co-operated.

I removed the locking mechanism and cleaned up the dirt/oil/salts, etc.

I re-connected the mechanism to the ECU, but did not fully re-install the lock in place. I want to simulate the hatch closing by using a screwdriver and what the parts moving.

I moved the latch into a locking position - which simulates the hatch being closed. The motor was activated and it locks the latch into place.

HOWEVER, within a second the motor works again - and reverses the locking action! Essentially - the motor goes back into the hatch open position and unlocks the latch. That's why the hatch/door is able to be opened with a simple, light pull.

I read in the shop manual that if the ECU failed - it should produce an error code with the on board computer. So - I connected the CanOBD-2 code reader and found that there is no error code. This means - it must be the lock mechanism assembly.

So - I guess I take a chance and order it (PN 69110-35090) on line for $200 instead of buying it for $450 at the dealership.

Will let you know...[Would you mind letting us know where to order this part?]

im having issues with a stuck end gate. 04 sport. ive tried pushing down /pulling up on the to little handles on the latch thru the access cover to NO avail to get the gait to open. if I squeeze the handle from the out side the motor runs like its going to open but nothing.

Mine (07 sport) started acting up last year. I found that if you push on the Toyota emblem on the rear gate while activating the 'open' button then it will open fine. Kinda weird. I will probably take my rear panel off soon to see if I can make a permanent fix for it....i.e....jam something in there to replicate my pushing on the Toyota logo.

CAR: 2003 4Runner SR5

ISSUE: Broken rear lift gate lock (does not lock--tries to electronically lock but lock will not engage)

HISTORY: One random day, I tried to close my rear lift gate and it would NOT close. The mechanism would try to lock electronically and it just would not latch no matter how I try to close it. Slamming definitely does not work. Nonetheless, I ended up closing the rear lift gate with a pull strap and attaching it one of the tie down loops. After a few days, I tried the rear lift gate door again, and it started working. Not wanting to have the rear door open suddenly some day or have it not lock again, I pre-emptively replaced the rear door lock (Toyota Part # 69110-35090; the latest part number as of this posting; purchased on eBay for $160 from Global Parts Warehouse). I thought I'd write this as a concise summary of previous postings and to make things as clear as possible. Read the original post for great pictures of the process.

TOOLS NEEDED

10mm socket and ratchet
Wide flat head screwdriver (long--works pretty good) or a plastic trim removal kit (preferred method; see notes below)
Thin, small flat head screwdriver [harness disconnecting]
Optional: razor blade, duct tape (rear plastic repair)

FIX SUMMARY (time needed: approximatley 45 minutes)

1. Rolled up all of the windows (front driver's and rear lift gate were most important, and if you have a sunroof, close it).
2. Open up the rear lift gate.
3. IMPORTANT STEP: Disconnect the negative terminal to the battery. I had to also disconnect the grounding bolt as the fit to the negative terminal was a bit tight. This step is important for reintializing the car ECU at later step so it recoginizes the new lock. Record your favorite radio stations so you can reprogram them later. The battery must be disconnected for at least 10 minutes, and don't reconnect the battery until your new lock has been installed for it to be recognized properly.
4. Pop off the black pastic cover on the lower edge of the rear lift gate door that covers the lock mechanism. Use a wide tape covered screwdriver (to avoid scratches to the paint), and pop out the middle of the cover at the outer edge, bottom edge that is most closest to the inside of the cabin (when the door is closed). Even better is to use a kit from Harbor Freight tools (Part #67021 )--I used the edge that has a wedged lip to do this.

5 Piece Auto Trim and Molding Tool Set

5. Remove the three lower bolts on the lock that were revealed from step 4.
6. Remove the small plastic cover that is over the rear door strap by popping the cover off from the upper edge. Use this image as guide for the next few steps:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/600822-post4.html

7. Remove the bolt that holds the rear door strap (a 10mm socket).
8. Pop off the large main rear liftgate plastic panel cover by pulling up on the panel (held by 10 clips). Use one of the flat trim removal tools (or covered screwdriver) to help you get started. Start at the lower middle of the panel (by the lock mechanism) and work in a flat trim removal tool (or screwdriver) and pop up the panel. Work your way along the trim to get the panel clips up sequentially. No need to remove the whole rear cover or panel weatherstripping near the top, just pop the clips out and let the panel hang so you get enough clearance. See diagram post in 6 for a guide.
9. Disconnect the rear lift gate lock wiring harness. Once the plastic rear trim (step 8) is lifted off enough for clearance, you'll see the wiring harness for the lock on the driver's side of the lift gate frame. One side of the harness has a locking tab--push a small, thin, flathead screw driver in there to push the tab in while you slide out the wiring harness to the door lock.
10. Remove the lower part of plastic cover sheet from the metal frame. Carefully pull the plastic cover off (mostly on the the lower edge), while separately the pliable rubberized weatherstrip cement with either a thin, blunt screwdriver (or if you're really careful, a blade). Don't cut the plastic cover, just separate it from the frame by cutting/splitting the weatherstrip. You'll be retacking this back on so be careful with the plastic sheet (you can always use duct tape for repairs, but try to miniize the damage. You only need to remove enough weatherstrip so you can get access to the door lock and to slide it out to remove it.
11. Remove the cable clip. On the white door lock plastic enclosure, you'll see a floating black covered cable that's held by a plastic clip (has 2 pressure side tabs), and that clip goes into the door lock enclosure. Use needle nose pliers (or a flat head screwdriver) to push in the side tabs of the clip so it releases and you can remove the plastic clip from the white plastic lock enclosure.
12. Remove the rear lift gate frame bolt that goes to the back of the lock mechanism. The lock mechanism and enclosure is now free.
13. Remove the door lock mechanism. You'll need to loosen the wiring harness rubber grommet to the door frame before you can remove the lock, and slide it under the plastic sheet.
14. Install the new door lock. Remove the string on the new door lock before the install (or leave it hanging as it's a relase for the lock, so you can test it before actually closing and locking the door--but there is no real need to leave the string). For reinstall, follow steps backward from 13 to 4.
15. IMPORTANT STEP: Reinitialize the rear door lock computer. Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Turn key to "ON" position, but do not start car. Then follow the next set of sequences:

• a. The driver's side window "AUTO" switch will be flashing (i.e. "not initialized"). Roll down the driver's side window all the way down. Hold the up button to roll up the driver's side window until it closes--hold it down another 1-2 seconds after it fully closes, the "AUTO" light will illuminate steadily.
• b. [Only if you have a sunroof]. Open up the sunrooff all the way. Close the sunroof all the way by holding the close button--hold it down another 1-2 seconds after it fully closes.
• c. Lower the rear liftgate window all the way. Raise the rear liftgate window all the way up by holding the close button--hold it down another 1-2 seconds after it fully closes.
• d. Start the car and leave it on.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/178185-post2.html

16. Test the new rear lift gate. With the car still on, go to the back tailgate and open it--it should work like a charm.
17. Reprogram your radio stations if you haven't done so (tune in the station you want, then push and hold which memory preset button you for a few seconds, and it will keep the station in memory). Enjoy!

Notes: For reinitializing and recognizing the newly installed rear lift gate lock, some people have been able to just disconnect the main power wiring harness to their rear lift gate ECU for 10 minutes and reconnecting it after connecting in the new rear lift gate lock, and they were able to avoid step 3 and 15 (battery disconnect, reconnect method). I initially replaced my lock without doing steps 3 and 15 and my new lock didn't work. I had to reinitialize the ECU before it would work. You must reinitialize the ECU whether how I outlined it (battery disconnect method) or disconnecting the rear lift gate ECU power harness. I would imagine that disconnecting the fuse(s) to the rear ECU could work as well (but the fuse block is somewhat non-descript and I am not sure which ones to disconnect).

Nice work to the original poster and those that contributed. My new rear tailgate lock works great.

This is what mine was doing. I think the motor disengages to let the mechanical latch hold but the latch wasnt. I tried to save the old lock actuator as well but I ended up buying the new one and it fixed my issue.