DIY lift gate lock assembly - Page 4 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

jim520 · 01-11-2014, 08:41 AM

thanks oblivionis your pictorial is first rate. will come in handy when I have to finally " do the deed". I have had similar problems. intermittent to start and this week with the high temps in the teens and 20s it quit working completely. Had to lift snow ballast blocks through the rear window, (ouch). discovered just this morning if I push in on gate while pulling latch it will open every time. This will work 'till I can let go of several $$$ to replace the latch. In Nashville, TN it costs nearly $200 just to find out the problem is the latch motor.

xxaarraa · 01-11-2014, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjlmjl

I have a similar problem with the hatch - where it would NOT lock.

I've read so much about the hatch NOT opening that I have a few questions about my problem - which is the opposite.

The locking mechanism costs $450 Cdn at the dealership and not sure how much the ECU costs. Since both parts are electrical/electronic - they won't take back the units if I swop out the parts and it doesn't solve my problem.

===The problem ===

2007 4Runner, driven in typical Canadian winters with lots of salt on the roads.

My back hatch/door will not stay locked.

I would close the door as usual and the door mechanism engages. So it seems. It closes the door normally by pulling it in the last few inches. Everything seems fine - UNTIL I gently lift the door. The door then opens.

Again, the locking mechanism pulls the door shut and engages, BUT it doesn't hold it (the door) in place. In fact, I drove out from a parking lot - and the hatch popped opened.

So -I'm thinking - it's either the locking mechanism (cost=$450) and/or the ECU unit (cost = ??).

I haven't had the chance to try connecting and disconnecting the power to the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) yet. It's minus 15C - so I'll wait till it warms up to try that.

If disconnecting and reconnecting the power to the ECU doesn't fix it, is there a way to determine if the problem is the locking mechanism - or - the ECU - WITHOUT having to buy the units to troubleshoot?

Does anyone have experience to tell which part is defective based on the above description?

Thanks in advance.

This sounds scary as shit, because the rear area in my truck is used exclusively by my 95 lb dog. I would NOT want the hatch to just open up when he's back there and we are moving.

cruiser77 · 01-18-2014, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL

I did this back in November or December, and had been driving around with the trunk locked but the new motor still wasn't working. I left it alone until last week, and finally crawled in the back and pulled the 2 wire sets from the bottom of the ECU on the tail gate, left them out for about 30 seconds, and then put them back in, and poof my motor started working. Just wanted to add that to this thread, since you don't need to pull your battery, just pull the plugs from the ECU and it should pick up your new motor.

Thank you for this post, after searching to fix this problem, this worked like a charm. I had a baby stroller component get jammed in the tailgate. Although I was able to pull the stroller component free, the lock mechanism on the tailgate would no longer release even though I could hear the actuator trying to unlock. I was told by mechanics I needed to replace the actuator and bought a new one. I replaced the old one and found that the tailgate would not work at all (i.e. it would neither engage the tailgate lock nor release the tailgate lock). After reading this post, I unplugged both wires and plugged them back in after a couple minutes and it WORKED. I then tried the old one and found that worked also. So turns out the stroller component that jammed caused the door to malfunction and it just needed to be reset. Also of note, after I replaced the actuator and before I reset the ECU, the tailgate will not close all the way. It will engage the initial lock but is very loose. As a result, the FOB key will not allow you to lock the vehicle since it recognizes that the rear hatch is not closed properly.

97BlackAckCL · 01-20-2014, 03:28 PM

No problem at all, glad to hear it helped

200 hp · 04-14-2014, 04:23 PM

So I've installed the new locking mechanism and the rear hatch will lock but it will not unlock. I've tried disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery and also the two plugs on the rear hatch ecu. Not only will the door not open but now my truck is oddly not holding an idle?! I start the engine and it will immediately stall out!

I didn't touch anything else except the negative terminal, rear hatch ecu, and rear locking mechanism....

amg_w211 · 04-14-2014, 08:09 PM

Disconnect your negative battery terminal (or whatever terminal you originally disconnected). Then clean up both the battery terminal and your connection--make sure all grease and corrosion is off the terminal (use isopropyl alcohol if you have grease on the terminals). Then reconnect up the terminal (making sure no corrosion is present when you do).

Quote:

Originally Posted by 200 hp

So I've installed the new locking mechanism and the rear hatch will lock but it will not unlock. I've tried disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery and also the two plugs on the rear hatch ecu. Not only will the door not open but now my truck is oddly not holding an idle?! I start the engine and it will immediately stall out!

I didn't touch anything else except the negative terminal, rear hatch ecu, and rear locking mechanism....

BigNuge · 04-15-2014, 07:21 AM

My rear gate lock quit 2 days ago. A big PITA because it was still being used by my wife (the T4R has become her Winter vehicle) and now she can't use the rear cargo area. Anyway, now I will have to try the reset procedure first...if nothing happens then a new locking mechanism it is.

Suffice to say that this issue has pushed the convertible coming out early...like today.

At least the nice weather is here...finally.

200 hp · 04-15-2014, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amg_w211

Disconnect your negative battery terminal (or whatever terminal you originally disconnected). Then clean up both the battery terminal and your connection--make sure all grease and corrosion is off the terminal (use isopropyl alcohol if you have grease on the terminals). Then reconnect up the terminal (making sure no corrosion is present when you do).

Disconnected the terminal, cleaned it, and put it back on and it still won't idle. I have an appointment with the stealership tomorrow...

97BlackAckCL · 04-15-2014, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigNuge

My rear gate lock quit 2 days ago. A big PITA because it was still being used by my wife (the T4R has become her Winter vehicle) and now she can't use the rear cargo area. Anyway, now I will have to try the reset procedure first...if nothing happens then a new locking mechanism it is.

Suffice to say that this issue has pushed the convertible coming out early...like today.

At least the nice weather is here...finally.

Must be nice, it's snowing here...

BigNuge · 04-15-2014, 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL

Must be nice, it's snowing here...

That sucks man...if it snowed here I would have to be medicated...I would be pissed.

We did just cool off though, headed back to averages (50ish).

DiskDoctr · 05-05-2014, 03:39 PM

I ordered a latch replacement from Amazon for $199 including taxes, shipping, etc. It arrived Friday, I put it in today.

It was a breeze!

I did have to replace the bolts holding the key lock, though. When inserting the key about two weeks ago, it fell right into the liftgate

Used two spare bolts, inserted from the outside and used shoulder nuts on the inside. Had to remove 4 nuts on the inside, then pop the moulding off the liftgate first.

Amazingly, none of those bolts broke, shredded the plastic (or whatever) mountings they were in, and didn't even burst into flames!

After installing the new latch, I removed the 'Drk/Lck' fuse, counted to 45, and then removed the 'ECU-2' (I think that was the label) fuse for the same 45 secs.

A couple of lock/unlock, windows up/down for rear and driver's side, and started the vehicle.

Not sure which combo did it, but after the final shutoff/key removal and exit from vehicle, everything worked normally after restarting.

Wanted to say THANKS for the writeup! I hated spending $200 because the rear window leaks water into the gate and the latch won't spring the mechanism properly, but really stoked to have the liftgate back

scottp999 · 09-24-2014, 06:18 PM

Big thanks to this thread. I had the spontaneous rear window explosion (or my wife did) on the highway yesterday. I took it over today for safelite to replace. They said they could not get the rear lock to work, no noise nothing. The guy had to crawl in the back to take the panel off and replace the window. They almost called me back saying they could not do it. Luckily they got the window in and informed me of the issue.

This thread helped me try the easiest thing 1st, which was to disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 45 seconds and reconnect. That is all that was needed to clear the issue for me. My symptoms were just a dead back locking mechanism. Would not make any noise like it was trying at all. I could use the key to roll down the window and it would work the other locks open and closed from the rear key use. As soon as I reconnected the negative battery terminal it immediately started working as normal again.

Also want to thank this thread on the exploding rear window issue: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/proble...g-highway.html

arkbadger · 12-10-2014, 10:26 AM

I apologize in advance for my ignorance on the subject, as I have only had my 4 runner for a year or so (I had a Taco for about 10 years). This past weekend as I went to close the rear door of my '07 4runner annnnnd, it wouldn't close. As I inspected further it looked like the latch/lock assembly in the door seized up, for lack of a better word. I sprayed it down with some WD40 and worked at it with a screw driver and it didn't move. My rear door is now being held shut with by a strap attached to the back seat.

Here's my question. Based on the picture I attached below I believe it is the back latch return that is seized up. Is this all part of the rear gate latch that is discussed in this thread? When I search for it on Amazon and other parts sites they all seem to come back to the rear gate latch, but I can't get a good look at it because of the plastic to be sure.

This picture isn't from my truck, but this is what is seized up.

amg_w211 · 12-10-2014, 08:40 PM

You'll need a whole new rear latch assembly. Here's probably the cheapest source at this time:

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota.../dp/B005VWRAIC

Hamildub · 12-11-2014, 09:31 PM

This is awesome that we know how to fix it, at least it's not too pricey. Isn't this a massive safety issue? This happenened very sporadically for me until one day when we were driving home on the highway from a ski trip, would have been super pissed if my stuff flew out the back!

Does anyone know of a process that we can start? I don't think Toyota should be making $$ off a defective part replacement.

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