12-16-2014, 12:45 PM
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#61
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amg_w211
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I really appreciate the help.
as it turns out I decided to not do it myself. A lot of the reason was because I don't have the took to remove the "pins" on the rear cargo door and was worried that it would constantly rattle after I fixed it so I decided to go to the mechanic.
well, he just called and told me it wasn't the latch assembly, it was the touch pad sensor that had shorted out and that part was only $60 and he could get it today.
I love my mechanic, it's not too often you find a good, honest one but I sure did. I took my old Tacoma to him for probably 10 years and now I've had my Runner for a couple years and won't take it anywhere else.
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12-16-2014, 11:27 PM
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#62
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 1
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Thank you so much for this post. 2006 4runner had this same problem. First wouldnt open...then wouldnt latch once I got it open. Stealership swore it wouldnt be the issue but after i read this I was certain it would be the case. Had them quote the repair 820.00 cdn. Ordered the part 235.00 cdn. Fixed tonight in 30 minutes.
I did the trick of putting key in back and cycling the locks a couple of times for the computr to recognize.
Thanks again for all the help and savings.
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12-18-2014, 02:44 PM
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#63
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 104
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkbadger
I really appreciate the help.
well, he just called and told me it wasn't the latch assembly, it was the touch pad sensor that had shorted out and that part was only $60 and he could get it today.
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I'm having a similar problem. Went to open my gate and nothing. motor doesnt' try and window doesn't roll down with key pad. Window will roll down from inside the truck. Has anyone had this. It seems most of the issues are with the motor and the replacement is the answer. Haven't had a chance to check fuses. Anyone experience this where it may not be motor? The above thread got my interest because I can't even hear the motor try and he mentioned it ended up being a short in the gate switch. Do you happen to have the part # for the switch?
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2006 Limited V8 FJ coils all around - Bilstein 5100's set at 1.75 - Icon Rear 2.0 - Daystar 1.5 rear spacer - Customish' end links - - LED interior upgrade- GROM audio blutooth unit- weathertech floormats -Spidertraxx 1.25" Wheel Spacers Michelin LTX AT/2 275/65/18
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12-18-2014, 03:50 PM
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#64
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Live Free or Die
Posts: 424
Real Name: Jim
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Live Free or Die
Posts: 424
Real Name: Jim
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmalis12
I'm having a similar problem. Went to open my gate and nothing. motor doesnt' try and window doesn't roll down with key pad. Window will roll down from inside the truck. Has anyone had this. It seems most of the issues are with the motor and the replacement is the answer. Haven't had a chance to check fuses. Anyone experience this where it may not be motor? The above thread got my interest because I can't even hear the motor try and he mentioned it ended up being a short in the gate switch. Do you happen to have the part # for the switch?
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Try pulling your battery cable for 10 seconds. Mine has done it one time in the last 18 months, did the battery cable pull and it has worked great since. I'll replace it when the battery cable reset doesn't work...lol
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2002 Sequoia Limited As you sow, so shall you reap
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12-31-2014, 04:02 PM
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#65
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 114
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 114
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Just replaced this switch on my 2004. Mine would make noise but would not stay latched. With the door open I ended up using a screwdriver to simulate the latch it connects to when I shut the door. The locking mechanism would engage and pull shut around the screwdriver, but a light pull would open it back up. I suspect something just wore out or broke in it.
Got the replacement part on eBay for 164 bucks delivered. OEM Toyota. The dealership quoted me 294 bucks plus tax for the part. No thanks. Here is the link.
Toyota 6911035090 Trunk Trunk Part Trunk Lock Actuator Motor 69110 35090 | eBay
One note: I disconnected the battery before replacing the lock assembly and when I got it all back together I did the reset procedure suggested earlier in this thread. Turn on the ignition and then down and up with the drivers door mirror, then sunroof, then rear window holding each at the end for a couple of seconds.
Worked like a champ.
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2004 V8 Limited, Volant CAI, iPod mod to Navi, FJ Rim Swap
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04-04-2015, 07:17 PM
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#66
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 75
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 75
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Just wanted to say thanks for the post, purchased from amazon and was a piece of cake it install. Remember to disconnect the 2 bottom cables from the ECU at the bottom right of the door while working. Don't do the battery thing sounds like a potential headache, this works just fine. Replace the unit plug it in and then plug the 2 ECU cables back in. Took about 15 mins, however, if your situation is anything like mine it could take some extra time to just get the door open.
Had to remove the whole plastic enclosure from the old unit, zip tie the small release lever up (thanks for the tip wherever I read that) and douse with rust remover wd40. Let sit for a bit and apply pressure or bash the bottom of the door with your feet from the inside, it will slowly begin to work it's way out, takes some perseverance, don't give up! My case I suspect was fairly bad due to the amount of rust, was worried it might be something that wasn't doable on my own, but was! Good luck.
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05-01-2015, 01:34 PM
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#67
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 14
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Having some trouble getting the rear latch open. I've tried pulling the smaller of the two levers to no avail. No matter how much rust remover I put on it and how hard I pull, it won't budge. I suspect that the latch mechanism may be rusted solid. Does anyone know how to access the latching mechanism without having the gate open? Is it possible to get to it by removing the bumper?
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2004 SR5 V8, Bilstein 5100s, FJ coils, custom rear links.
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06-05-2015, 03:59 PM
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#68
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Quebec
Posts: 3
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Quebec
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Motor up for grabs
I had a problem with the locking mechanism for the longest time. It would lock and immediately release again. Something wrong with the sensor. I finally gave up and ordered a new unit from Toyota. When I removed the old lock I took it apart and salvaged the motor which looks and works like new. So, if anyone out there feels inclined to repair a lift gate lock with a burnt motor, feel free to contact me. I am willing to part with it for $30 plus shipping.
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12-20-2015, 07:41 PM
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#69
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: west coat
Posts: 13
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: west coat
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I just replaced the mechanism in my 07. It latches fine, the wiper, key slot int he liftgate, and defogger are now working again. The opening switch still does not work. It was flakey before, I have a new one on the way. The thread helped a lot, thanks!
I installed a string with a little wooden ball to manually release the lift gate. I can get to it easy by removing the access panel.
Now for a few sour grapes. I bought this vehicle used about a month ago. It has 100K miles. I paid 14K, and didn't not balk. I am past wanting to work on cars. In the past I bought $3K cars I expected to fix things. People seem to think that Toyota are the most reliable car out there. I drank the Kool-Aid. This particular car has had several issues in the past month alone. It has a problematic electrical system. The lift gate is the worst.
As for the lift gate door handle, the idea of replacing a traditional mechanical mechanism with a fickle electronic one is plain stupid. If I can not get it to work reliably I will fabricate a manual handle to pull the release lever. And why to they insist on a switch that turns to black tar an stops working. I have black glueie junk in the carpet now. It appears that they invented a "Rube Goldberg" solution to the simplest mechanism and built it with junk parts.
After the holidays I will sell it. A Chevy Tahoe Z78 will suit my needs better. I will not be upset when it needs repair, I expect that from American cars and pay a price for them that takes in into account.
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01-26-2016, 11:53 PM
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#70
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Member
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 774
Real Name: Kyle
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Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 774
Real Name: Kyle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserborealis
I had a problem with the locking mechanism for the longest time. It would lock and immediately release again. Something wrong with the sensor. I finally gave up and ordered a new unit from Toyota. When I removed the old lock I took it apart and salvaged the motor which looks and works like new. So, if anyone out there feels inclined to repair a lift gate lock with a burnt motor, feel free to contact me. I am willing to part with it for $30 plus shipping.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScotA
I just replaced the mechanism in my 07. It latches fine, the wiper, key slot int he liftgate, and defogger are now working again. The opening switch still does not work. It was flakey before, I have a new one on the way. The thread helped a lot, thanks!
I installed a string with a little wooden ball to manually release the lift gate. I can get to it easy by removing the access panel.
Now for a few sour grapes. I bought this vehicle used about a month ago. It has 100K miles. I paid 14K, and didn't not balk. I am past wanting to work on cars. In the past I bought $3K cars I expected to fix things. People seem to think that Toyota are the most reliable car out there. I drank the Kool-Aid. This particular car has had several issues in the past month alone. It has a problematic electrical system. The lift gate is the worst.
As for the lift gate door handle, the idea of replacing a traditional mechanical mechanism with a fickle electronic one is plain stupid. If I can not get it to work reliably I will fabricate a manual handle to pull the release lever. And why to they insist on a switch that turns to black tar an stops working. I have black glueie junk in the carpet now. It appears that they invented a "Rube Goldberg" solution to the simplest mechanism and built it with junk parts.
After the holidays I will sell it. A Chevy Tahoe Z78 will suit my needs better. I will not be upset when it needs repair, I expect that from American cars and pay a price for them that takes in into account.
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How the hell can you get this thing open? I'm baffled. I have the whole latch mechanism torn apart inside the gate, and can't get it to function. I've been spraying PB blast and other stuff in there for a while now and am having ZERO luck.
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03-20-2016, 08:50 PM
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#71
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
Age: 35
Posts: 21
Real Name: Brandon
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Northern New Mexico
Age: 35
Posts: 21
Real Name: Brandon
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Awesome write up
This forum helped perfectly! Same issue here, '04 Limited. Once we took it all apart - we saw that it was caked with desert. A nice thick layer of red sand was all over everything in the white plastic.
Thanks for including the part numbers! Super helpful!
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03-20-2016, 09:33 PM
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#72
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Athena
Posts: 27
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Location: Athena
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As far as maintenance, what are the lube points for the hatch lock mechanism? Just spray some lithium grease in there?
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1997 Toyota 4Runner V6 SR5 - 342k miles
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05-17-2016, 08:04 PM
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#73
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Baltimore MD
Posts: 300
Real Name: Lance
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Baltimore MD
Posts: 300
Real Name: Lance
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Thank You
Thanks again to @oblivions for the great write up. My latch assembly bit the dust this weekend, ordered a new one on Amazon for $157 and installed it in less than 30 min. As an FYI, I disconnected the negative terminal, and unplugged both harnesses going into the bottom of the rear ECU, after install I plugged everything back in and the latch worked no problem. All I had to do was reprogram the auto-function for the rear window, driver side window, and sunroof, using the directions given earlier in this thread.
Also, what was the point of the black shoelace that was attached to the new unit? I just untied it, but I'm curious.
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2004 Sport Titanium Metallic, Black WeatherTech Mats, J.A.'s Map Light Mod, 2014 Scion Pioneer Bespoke touchscreen w/ Back Up Camera, Arc Audio xdi805 amp, Handsfree phone/bluetooth steering wheel controls, 06-09 OEM LED tail lights, Interior LED Swap, Gentex 177 AutoDimming Mirror w/ Amber Compass, Sunvisor GPS mod, Avitol 4003 Remote Start w/ factory keyfob, J.A.'s DRL Mod, Back Window Up Hack, OEM 115v AC inverter install, Smokers Kit
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08-20-2016, 02:23 PM
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#74
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Syracuse
Age: 50
Posts: 21
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Syracuse
Age: 50
Posts: 21
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Reset Fixed it!
I also had to re-set the power latch after disconnecting the power lead to it. My rear window jams up due to one of the clips on drivers side rusted and broke.
After I plugged power back to the One Touch, dead in the water!.
I didn't disconnect batter, just all the plugs going into ECU to be sure.
At first, it would latch, but no power when trying to Unlock. So I played around withe the power door locks and turning car on and off, and POOF, it recognized it!
Thanks for the posts!!
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08-27-2016, 09:47 AM
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#75
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 71
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 71
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Thanks to everyone for their contributions. Just replaced my latch & took me a grand total of 25 min from start to finish. I went with the latch on Amazon Prime for $168. Feels great not to give the dealership my money!
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