If you replace it with an identical sub, no need for an amp. If you use a different sub with the same configuration (2 ohm, dual voice coil) it will work but would sound better with a dedicated amp. If you get any other sub you will need an amp.

If it's just the sub and the amp is functional, you don't need to replace it

Thanks used this yesterday to replace my blown factory sub

Great write up. I used this to replace my blown JBL sub with the
Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Punch Series Shallow Mount. I will eventually add an amp. It sounds about the same. Maybe a little more punch, but negligible.

The only problem I ran into was the star cargo net hook. There may be a better way then just yanking it out, but I had to put a rag around the cargo hook and yank with an adjustable wrench. It came out with a lot of force and wasn't broken.

Thanks again for the help.

Wow, Excellent write up !! So much better than the black and white instructions sent by Crutchfield, explaining how to remove the panel covering the sub and amp.

I have one question, as you know precisely how the panel is designed :

I am trying to remove this small tool box only
(in order to fit my parking sensor system in it, with a small hole and a rubber grommet to route the wires properly to the rear of my 4runner... great idea, isn't it ? ;)



=> I wonder if I have to remove the whole pannel, or if the small tool box can just pop off, once you unscrewd the bolt.

Did this today. Everything went as planned outside of the double decker cargo system and wiring. 4 bolts need to be removed for the cargo system to be removed. Additionally, after I unplugged the two plugs (4 wires) from the oem subwoofer, had to splice and expose the 4 wires so they can each be plugged into the 4 slots of the subwoofer. The sub has 4 slots, 2 black and 2 red. I guesstimated by placing the red wire into the red slot (yellow wire in the black slot, on the same side), while the black wire into the black slot (green wire in the red slot, on the same side).

The subwoofer I purchased is the Rockford fosgate recommended from this thread.

I am not the most mechanically proficient, so, the entire job took me around 2 + hours.

Without the tutorial, however, surely would of gone beyond 4 hours!

The wiring is holding me up here. I also purchased the shallow mount Rockford Fosgate recommended here.

I have 4 wires. The two connected to the top of the stock speaker were Red(+) and Yellow (-), The bottom two were Green (+) and Black (-).

I tried making sense of the wiring diagram but it only shows option for two wires coming into the speaker. I have 4. There are 4 connectors on the speaker.

I have no idea which wires go where.

Any help would be appreciated.

Exactly what I faced earlier.

I spliced all 4 wires, thus separating them from the two connectors. The Red and Yellow, went into one side of the sub, where the red wire went into the red hole while the yellow wire went into the black hole. Similarly (for the other side), green wire went into the red hole while the black wire went into the black hole. That was my attempt to 'guesstmate', and it appears to be "booming" after the install.

Hope that helps. And please ping me if there any follow-on questions.

Ok thanks. I thought that's what you meant. I tried it but it didn't work the first time... maybe I will go try to swap sides and see if that works.

It should work, regardless of which side, given it's just (+) and (-); indicating the connections are non-directional specific. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

If anything, please ensure the spliced wires are inserted as deeply (into the hole) as possible.

I'm still getting nothing.

Perhaps try both sides of the speaker, as said previously? Also, ensure the bass is on "5", to magnify the effects. I noticed while testing the new subwoofer that some songs barely made a boom, while others boomed quite a bit...

Lastly, what were you getting from the old subwoofer? Poor quality sound or no sound at all?

OK through much trial and error here's what I've got.

I can hook up the + and - from each side of the original speaker to the + and - of the new speaker and get nothing. I can invert them and still get nothing. (Red and yellow on one side of the new speaker and black and green on the other side)

I can hook up the + and - from each side of the original speaker to a + and - on the opposite sides of the new speaker and I get nothing (red and black on one side green and yellow on the other) I was thinking that maybe instead of + and - being left side and right side they were top and bottom.

I can hook up the Red on one side and the yellow on the other with a wire connecting the other two + and - terminals and I get sound. Same if I use just green and black.

ALSO I can hook up the red and yellow OR the green and black on one side and patch the + and - together on the other side and I get sound.

So basically I have figured out two ways for it to work without using all the parts... I know leftover parts are normal in many cases but it would worry me with wiring.... especially since the first time I installed a radio in a vehicle I melted all the wires to the dash lights.... that's a whole other story.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

To answer your questions/comments I was getting sound before but a really bad rattle. I had turned down the bass to alleviate some of the annoying rattle sound. I did remember to turn the bass up so I would have sound coming through. That was good advice anyway

Same problem w/ me. Heavy, grotesque rattling that was causing major anxiety to any, normal listeners.