Just wondering if anyone has put oil treatment and trani treatment in the yotas. The stuff that i am referring to is, like a sludge that coats the moving parts, and makes cold starts easier on the engine, and coats the trani for the same thing.

Mind you i have 7000 or so miles on it, and am wondering if i should put some in after the next oil change

Any opinions are greatly appreciated

Do yourself a favor; don't put ANY additives in your car unless it's ready to die. Additive are chemicals, chemicals are prone to breakdown and cause contamination/sludge/carbon build-up. Now if your car is old and tired/leaking additives may prolong the inevitable death.

Koz

Good point koz. I put it into my 93 jeep grand cherokee limited with the v6, and it actually made a difference. But your right about the chemical thing. Who needs added headache, i will leave good enough alone

D

Motor oils already have additive packages. No reason to add more.

I think my transmission is sealed, no dip stick. I don't think Toyota's fluid would play nice with any additive.

My Acura dealer added BG MOA the one time they changed my oil. Honda dealers in the area also used it. I think it was just another way to make $$$.

I agree with the other guys: oil companies already use additives in the oil, so you would be wasting your money. There are some that say even fuel additives are a waste of money.

Ya know i never checked to see the trani fluid. muy interesante

It was weird though, cold starts would always suck with the jeep, (maybe cuz it was a jeep), but after putting that silicone sludge in the crank and transfer case, it would start right up, and pur nicely. Even cut down on vibration from the engine.

But not going to tempt fate on my rig

I have not heard one mechanic or read objective enginnering one article that supports putting that crap in your engine. All good motor oils have additives in it. There is no real benefit to adding junk. And I recently came across an article where the FTC went after some well known additive maker for being misleading and worthless in their advertising and got injunctions and fines on them.

Just change the oil every 3,000-5,000 miles and you're good to go. I belive the 4Runner trannies are sealed from being messed with so just follow the maintenance program.

If you want treat your baby to something special, change your motor oil, trans fluid, and differentials to full synthetic. I even use synthetic grease.

Koz

Koz

Yea i would, but isn't that stuff really expensive? And if i were to go that route, which one do you use? Also, how many miles into the life of the vehicle should i change the diff. fluid.

I don't think there is a synthetic transmission fluid that meets Toyota's new requirements (Type WS fluid?).

Check your owners manual for the transmission service requirements, you'll be surprised.


Here is the thread.

Bluto,

I was not aware of this new type "WS" fluid. Yes you are correct.
Amsoil and Mobile1 are developing it as we speak. They said it should be available this spring/summer.

Koz

No to all additives. The only "extra" that i put into my car is Chevron Fuel System Cleaner every 3000 miles.

Does that stuff just clean out the injectors, and that is it

Does it clean anything else out?

Just like most things, I have pretty strong opinions about additives. In addition, like the comments here, most additives should not be added to the engine systems. That being said, I do add some additives:

1) I add Redline Water Wetter to the cooling systems of all of my water cooled vehicles. Based on comments in other posts here, I confirmed that it is compatible with all flavors of Toyota coolant. Water Wetter appears to be a surfactant which allows the water to touch more of the metal surface as it washes thru the cooling system. This is a good thing as it helps eliminate hot spots.

2) I occasionally use RXP in my fuel tank to combat the carbonization within the combustion chamber. http://www.rxp.com/gaskicker.htm The EPA mandated fuels, even with the "premium" additives the gas companies add, tend to leave a bit of crud which cooks to a carbon. The active ingredient in RXP acts just like water injection, cleaning all carbon from the chamber. I said acts like water, because what it does is in reality is facilitate the complete combustion of the fuel. The additive is quite similar to that used in cutting torches for thick steel plate. RXP is thus quite different than all of the fuel system cleaners seen on store shelves. When used in my air/oil cooled BMW motorcycle, RXP has eliminated the hot weather heavy load pinging. Proof positive for me that it works, just as described in a two hour discussion I had with the inventor of the product.

3) Synthetic everywhere - I have switched all of the lubes to synthetic. Since the 4th Gen 5 speed auto comes with synthetic, I have not touched it. The lubrication value of well formulated synthetic oils can not be disputed. Maybe the cost/benefit ratio disturbs some, but not me.

RL Lemke

Thanks for the good advice. When using the RXP, how often do you use it, when do you put it in, and how much do you add. Full tank, or near empty tank.

As far as the water wetter, should i flush the system first, or just add it to the radiator on a cold car.

Any other addiitives you add to the yota. As far as synthetics, you use synthetic oil and trani fluid? SInce the car only has 7000 miles on it, and the next oil change isn't for another 1000 or 1500 miles, the next time should i put in the synthetic stuff.