I had a set of 5100's put on today. Due to lack of time and space to work, I chose to have a local shop do the work. I've used them many times before, have no problem trusting them to do anything on my 4runner. I picked it up after they'd closed only to find all three of the above mentioned lights were on. I remembered seeing this mentioned before, so I searched and came across the zero point calibration. I attempted that but couldn't get it done. After completing the circuit 4 times, all lights disappear except VSC off, just as they are suppose to. When I cycle the key as directed, all lights come back on and do not go off. The lights are on all the time, doesn't matter if the vehicle is in motion. I've also heard something about a ABS wire that could cause this. Any idea how I can narrow it down without taking it to the dealer? Thanks for any help.

Is it a Yaw Sensor thing?

just guessing..but its weird

Yaw sensor is the zero point, didn't work. I'm getting flashes from the abs and vsc lights, I just need something to show how to read the code there. I'm almost certain it's the abs wire since the obvious things didn't work (gas cap, zero point, resetting ecu, etc).

I'm having the same problem. After you reset the computer, do your lights come on at a specific speed?

Most likely they damaged a abs sensor or sensor wire.

Lights are on all the time. How do I tell if it's the abs sensor or sensor wire? How big of a deal to get fixed ($)?

I guarantee it's the ABS wire, I had the same thing happen when installing a lift.

You can easily figure out which wire is broken IF you have a multi-meter. I went and bought one for $15 at Wall-Mart and it was well worth it.

For whichever side you want to check first:
1) Unhook the battery
2) Remove the wheel
3) Locate and unplug the ABS sensor wire from the sensor itself
4) Follow the wire up into the engine bay and unplug the other end of the wire as well
5) With the multi-meter set to the continuity setting, place one lead in one end of the harness and the other lead into the other end until you get a continuous reading.
6) Repeat to check the other wire.

If you don't get a reading no matter which lead you put on each wire then both wires are torn, otherwise, this should narrow-down which wire is torn. If you find both wires to be continuous then the tear is on the other wheel's wiring harness. Also, you may need to remove the entire wiring harness unit from the vehicle in order to test it unless you have really long lead wires on the multi-meter.

Once you figure out which wire is torn, cut the wire in half and re-test each piece, this will narrow down where the wire is torn because one piece will be fine and the other one will still not give you a continuous reading on the torn wire. Then keep cutting back a few inches until you narrow in on the town section. Once the torn part has been cut out, simply use some spare wire, wire connectors, electrical tape, and duct tape to make your own new wire (make sure it's long enough, maybe measure existing wire prior to cutting). I say duct tape because I wrapped my new wire in a lot of duct tape when I was done reconnecting everything due to the fact that it will be exposed to dirt/dust/water in the wheel well or engine bay. Once you're done, reconnect the wire, then the battery, then crank it up and there shouldn't be anymore lights! If there are, repeat on the other wheel.

I certainly hope this helps as I just spent 20 minutes typing it on my cell phone...

Helps a ton!!!! I've got a multi-meter, I'll do some testing and hopefully narrow that down. Some heat shrink will probably work better for sealing it up. Good to hear there is a somewhat easy fix/troubleshooting method. However, if I'm understanding correctly, this will only work if it's a mid section in the wire that was stressed. If it was at one of then ends, then I'm outta luck.

Yes, I believe you're correct about that.

However, the stress comes from overextending the wheel assembly in order to install taller springs/shocks and the abs wire is clamped on with metal clips to the upper A-arm and various other locations so I'd say it's nearly impossible to damage the connecting pieces on the end.

Good luck!

I've not looked at it, so I'm not real sure what I'm looking for/at. I'm sure with the wheel off I can figure it out though. Hope you're right. I know I talked to the shop and he said if that's the case the whole thing will need replaced, can't replace just the wire. That's why I love this place!!!

Heck yes!

I was glad to hear it could easily be replaced when I looked into it but the ~$60 replacement cost was less than appealing so I just repaired it!

Good luck man:-)

Only about $60 to replace? The guy at the shop said it was the whole assembly, talked like it would be a major deal getting done. If only $60, I'll feel a little better about cutting things up, if I mess it up worse it's still not a bad fix.

Don't quote me on that but it was $150 max, but $60 sticks in my brain. Either way though that guy doesn't know what he's talking about, it's just a wire with clips on the end about 4' long total.

PS_why isn't the shop that installed the 5100's fixing this for you?

I could probably push it, but just not worth the headache. They've done great to go the extra mile and take care of me in the past, so I don't want to make a big deal about it. I spoke with them, they thought it was because of the removal of XREAS. Their suggestion was to take it to another local shop to have it scanned for codes and get back to them. They could spend the time tracing down the issue, but I can probably get it done just as good and quicker by using the forum.

I hear ya, well I'm glad I could help you out.

Let me know if that was the problem and you're able to get it fixed.