Originally Posted by sportsbriefcase

My interior doesn't seem to have a ton of road noise and I only have the stock sound system. Is this mod. worth it if I'm not upgrading my sound system?

Originally Posted by RoboJo

where did all the pictures go

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

They went to the Photobucket graveyard. PB decided to change their account settings and make you pay a couple hundred bucks a year to host photos. It's all over the internet.

As a temporary work around, in Chrome at least, you can right mouse click on the lost image and click 'open image in new tab'.

Originally Posted by DreamsOfDirt

Question for those that have installed their own sound deadening:

What are the pros or cons of doing the install over several days/weeks in 2 hour blocks?

I'm planning on doing the doors and tailgate, potentially the rear panels in the cargo area. Not likely the roof or floor.

I'm weighing the cost of having a stereo shop do the install or doing it myself. It doesn't seem technically complex (although as this and the threads note, there are a few watch outs). The big downside of DIY seems to be time required to do the job.

This vehicle is my daily driver so, realistically I could work on it for two hours a night. Maybe I could eek out 3-4 hours on a weekend, but with kids it won't likely be more than that. I'm wondering if it's practical to approach it like this or if I'm going to end up taking off a door panel and being cramped for install time. Obviously, the 2 hr time isn't an absolute hard cut off, but that would be ideal.

Any insight or advice the group can give is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by HokieRunner

Audio System Installation:

• Head unit wiring adapter –after much research there appeared to be 3 options for anyone with a JBL system wanting to go to an aftermarket headunit and NOT integrate the JBL amplifier.

1. Metra TYTO-01 or JAC TATO integration (use the included wiring harness but not the integration unit)
2. Tap into the 4Runner factory harness
3. Cut apart your old JBL headunit, dremel the harness plug off the circuit board, and solder straight onto the pins. (my factory head unit was partially defective anyways and I had a helluva good time sawing into that thing!)
I obviously went with option 3. But the pin chart I provide below should help anyone doing option 2 OR 3. By tearing apart the headunit I also found $2 in change (former owner’s kid’s personal piggy bank??). Certainly could have been the reason why the tape deck was non-functional.

PIN CHART (use 'Sequoia 20 Pin')

Factory adapter!:



After a little soldering (I bent the unused pins out of the way and insulated them off with heat shrink tubing)...new wiring harness:



• Speaker adapters/wiring. The stock brackets work well, just needed to either buy or make an adapter. I made my front woofer and tweeter adapters out of HDPE (cutting boards from Walmart provide a very cheap alternative). They’re waterproof (better than mdf which will absorb moisture if untreated) and will not vibrate.



Ready for speakers:



Tweets mounted to factory brackets:



X-overs and speakers mounted:



For the rears, I used ½” plastic spacers packed with clay. By drilling through the factory wiring routing system I was able to run my aftermarket wiring neatly through the adapter without having to drill a hole in my door. Using a hole saw, I mounted the rear tweeters in front of the door handle on the rear door panels. Building in a disconnect for the tweeter wiring makes future door panel removal easier.





Rear panel - tweeter holes cut and mount in place:



Rear door speakers installed:



• Door panels. I cut the speaker trim down on the back of the panels and removed the center support brace on the front doors so I could locate my X-over in that location. I also drilled out the JBL nameplates (which were pretty beat up) and replaced them w/ the ‘CDT Audio’ tags I peeled off the X-over covers.





• Subwoofer enclosure. After several attempts to keep a portion of the factory box where the amp is located, I had to cut it completely off and seal up the factory box. It was the only way the PDX-5 would fit. I fabricated a mount out of ¼” mdf with sheet metal brackets that secure the aftermarket amp snugly in the stock location.

Original box:



Box after cutting/sealing/reverse mounting sub:



Amp mounted on mdf w/ brackets:



Everything snugly in place, OEM style, but with more power!:



• Wiring. Pretty standard. Ran power through the factory firewall seal (resealed it of course) down the driver side and over. RCA’s/remote/speaker wire down the passenger side and across. Imprint tuning module in the glove box. Speaker wire can be snaked through the factory door grommets with a pin file/silicone spray. On the rear doors be sure to secure the speaker wire to the factory loom which runs low inside the door (otherwise it may interfere with window operation).





Once everything is wired, fire it up! Hopefully you hear music haha.

If so, it’s time to double check everything and reassemble.