01-19-2015, 04:54 PM
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#46
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: where the sun sets
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sorry to bring up an old thread, but since this thread is so detailed. I though i would just add more info to it.
To guys that deadened the rear hatch. Did you get rid of the all the rattles, even from the window?
I'm about to deaden my ride and wanted to get more details before I tear everything apart.
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06-07-2015, 07:07 AM
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#47
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland CA
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Bumping this from the dead, finally order some second skin damplifier pro, hopefully I'll get to it in 3 weeks , going to do my rear quarter panels since I have not did it, also I hate my body panel flexing close to my amp rack, very nasty rattles for months now since my temp fix of carpet stuffing behind the rack don't stay put no more.
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Pioneer DEH-80PRS,Rockford Fosgate T600-2,Hertz ML 1650.3(2 pairs),T400-2,Hertz ML 280.3(2 pairs),T1000-1bdcp,(2)JL Audio 12W6v3, Mechman 240a HO Alternator, Dual Northstar 31m,Borla Dual Exhaust,AFE Magnumforce intake.Enkei WT-4 Michelin Defender LTX 275/55R20. retrofitted S2000 projectors,Philips 85122 White Vision,Morimoto 5Five Ballast.Diode Dynamics SS3 Yellow Fog Sport.2 pairs of Hella Supertones.Full led conversion on interior and exterior.HAWK Talon Rotors and LTS pads F+R,Stoptech stainless steel lines F+R.Bilstein 5100 @0.85, MOOG FJ Springs front,Bilstein B12 36-281824 rear .
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05-06-2016, 07:45 PM
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#48
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Scottsdale
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Was planning on having professionals do the install of sound deadening in my 2004 + OEM carpet replacement, and after seeing that this took 70+ hours it might be worth the cost.
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05-07-2016, 06:47 AM
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#49
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
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Great thread! I'd love to get mine this quiet.
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01-20-2017, 09:49 PM
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#50
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Bozeman, MT
Posts: 64
Real Name: J.R.
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My interior doesn't seem to have a ton of road noise and I only have the stock sound system. Is this mod. worth it if I'm not upgrading my sound system?
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J.R. (Sportsbriefcase)
Bozeman, MT
2007 SR5 4x4 V6 | Bilstein 5100s (1.75") | Spidertrax | Trail Edition Rims | 265/70/17 Dueler | Satoshi Grille Mod | HCF Delete | Running Boards Removed
**Sportsbriefcase's Build Thread**
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01-21-2017, 07:40 AM
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#51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsbriefcase
My interior doesn't seem to have a ton of road noise and I only have the stock sound system. Is this mod. worth it if I'm not upgrading my sound system?
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even with stock sound, you will gain some volume and sq back if you fully sound deaden the doors, putting some on roof will quiet heavy rain noise. it also do quiet the whole interior.
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Pioneer DEH-80PRS,Rockford Fosgate T600-2,Hertz ML 1650.3(2 pairs),T400-2,Hertz ML 280.3(2 pairs),T1000-1bdcp,(2)JL Audio 12W6v3, Mechman 240a HO Alternator, Dual Northstar 31m,Borla Dual Exhaust,AFE Magnumforce intake.Enkei WT-4 Michelin Defender LTX 275/55R20. retrofitted S2000 projectors,Philips 85122 White Vision,Morimoto 5Five Ballast.Diode Dynamics SS3 Yellow Fog Sport.2 pairs of Hella Supertones.Full led conversion on interior and exterior.HAWK Talon Rotors and LTS pads F+R,Stoptech stainless steel lines F+R.Bilstein 5100 @0.85, MOOG FJ Springs front,Bilstein B12 36-281824 rear .
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07-07-2017, 03:43 AM
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#52
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where did all the pictures go
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07-07-2017, 08:27 AM
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#53
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Join Date: Sep 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboJo
where did all the pictures go
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They went to the Photobucket graveyard. PB decided to change their account settings and make you pay a couple hundred bucks a year to host photos. It's all over the internet.
As a temporary work around, in Chrome at least, you can right mouse click on the lost image and click 'open image in new tab'.
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07-07-2017, 01:57 PM
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#54
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
They went to the Photobucket graveyard. PB decided to change their account settings and make you pay a couple hundred bucks a year to host photos. It's all over the internet.
As a temporary work around, in Chrome at least, you can right mouse click on the lost image and click 'open image in new tab'.
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All more the reasons to own a private site and host pics through FTP on the cheap imo
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09-01-2018, 01:06 PM
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#55
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: St. Louis MO
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Approach for sound deadening install
Question for those that have installed their own sound deadening:
What are the pros or cons of doing the install over several days/weeks in 2 hour blocks?
I'm planning on doing the doors and tailgate, potentially the rear panels in the cargo area. Not likely the roof or floor.
I'm weighing the cost of having a stereo shop do the install or doing it myself. It doesn't seem technically complex (although as this and the threads note, there are a few watch outs). The big downside of DIY seems to be time required to do the job.
This vehicle is my daily driver so, realistically I could work on it for two hours a night. Maybe I could eek out 3-4 hours on a weekend, but with kids it won't likely be more than that. I'm wondering if it's practical to approach it like this or if I'm going to end up taking off a door panel and being cramped for install time. Obviously, the 2 hr time isn't an absolute hard cut off, but that would be ideal.
Any insight or advice the group can give is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
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09-02-2018, 04:48 AM
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#56
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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Age: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamsOfDirt
Question for those that have installed their own sound deadening:
What are the pros or cons of doing the install over several days/weeks in 2 hour blocks?
I'm planning on doing the doors and tailgate, potentially the rear panels in the cargo area. Not likely the roof or floor.
I'm weighing the cost of having a stereo shop do the install or doing it myself. It doesn't seem technically complex (although as this and the threads note, there are a few watch outs). The big downside of DIY seems to be time required to do the job.
This vehicle is my daily driver so, realistically I could work on it for two hours a night. Maybe I could eek out 3-4 hours on a weekend, but with kids it won't likely be more than that. I'm wondering if it's practical to approach it like this or if I'm going to end up taking off a door panel and being cramped for install time. Obviously, the 2 hr time isn't an absolute hard cut off, but that would be ideal.
Any insight or advice the group can give is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
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for 2 hours a day, you can complete at least the front doors, must clean the area well. also cut pieces in smaller strips if need to put it in the hard to reach areas.
rear doors and tailgate can be done the same time after you finished the front.
you will hear a decrease in road noise from a sound deadened door.
when you decide to do the cargo area, be sure to vacuum all the old stuff on the mat, then start. might end up just cleaning the whole truck later with all the vacuuming from the installs.
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Pioneer DEH-80PRS,Rockford Fosgate T600-2,Hertz ML 1650.3(2 pairs),T400-2,Hertz ML 280.3(2 pairs),T1000-1bdcp,(2)JL Audio 12W6v3, Mechman 240a HO Alternator, Dual Northstar 31m,Borla Dual Exhaust,AFE Magnumforce intake.Enkei WT-4 Michelin Defender LTX 275/55R20. retrofitted S2000 projectors,Philips 85122 White Vision,Morimoto 5Five Ballast.Diode Dynamics SS3 Yellow Fog Sport.2 pairs of Hella Supertones.Full led conversion on interior and exterior.HAWK Talon Rotors and LTS pads F+R,Stoptech stainless steel lines F+R.Bilstein 5100 @0.85, MOOG FJ Springs front,Bilstein B12 36-281824 rear .
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05-02-2022, 01:42 AM
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#57
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Oakland CA
Age: 36
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Pioneer DEH-80PRS,Rockford Fosgate T600-2,Hertz ML 1650.3(2 pairs),T400-2,Hertz ML 280.3(2 pairs),T1000-1bdcp,(2)JL Audio 12W6v3, Mechman 240a HO Alternator, Dual Northstar 31m,Borla Dual Exhaust,AFE Magnumforce intake.Enkei WT-4 Michelin Defender LTX 275/55R20. retrofitted S2000 projectors,Philips 85122 White Vision,Morimoto 5Five Ballast.Diode Dynamics SS3 Yellow Fog Sport.2 pairs of Hella Supertones.Full led conversion on interior and exterior.HAWK Talon Rotors and LTS pads F+R,Stoptech stainless steel lines F+R.Bilstein 5100 @0.85, MOOG FJ Springs front,Bilstein B12 36-281824 rear .
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05-06-2022, 01:18 PM
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#58
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 86
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That's really amazing! Way way above my pay grade, and I would never find the time to attempt it. I have the upgraded JBL system and I have to say it's a really good setup. I added one of those gizmos that allows Bluetooth streaming and it's really quite a thing.
I'm sure yours is way better though!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by HokieRunner
Audio System Installation:
• Head unit wiring adapter –after much research there appeared to be 3 options for anyone with a JBL system wanting to go to an aftermarket headunit and NOT integrate the JBL amplifier.
1. Metra TYTO-01 or JAC TATO integration (use the included wiring harness but not the integration unit)
2. Tap into the 4Runner factory harness
3. Cut apart your old JBL headunit, dremel the harness plug off the circuit board, and solder straight onto the pins. (my factory head unit was partially defective anyways and I had a helluva good time sawing into that thing!)
I obviously went with option 3. But the pin chart I provide below should help anyone doing option 2 OR 3. By tearing apart the headunit I also found $2 in change (former owner’s kid’s personal piggy bank??). Certainly could have been the reason why the tape deck was non-functional.
PIN CHART (use 'Sequoia 20 Pin')
Factory adapter!:
After a little soldering (I bent the unused pins out of the way and insulated them off with heat shrink tubing)...new wiring harness:
• Speaker adapters/wiring. The stock brackets work well, just needed to either buy or make an adapter. I made my front woofer and tweeter adapters out of HDPE (cutting boards from Walmart provide a very cheap alternative). They’re waterproof (better than mdf which will absorb moisture if untreated) and will not vibrate.
Ready for speakers:
Tweets mounted to factory brackets:
X-overs and speakers mounted:
For the rears, I used ½” plastic spacers packed with clay. By drilling through the factory wiring routing system I was able to run my aftermarket wiring neatly through the adapter without having to drill a hole in my door. Using a hole saw, I mounted the rear tweeters in front of the door handle on the rear door panels. Building in a disconnect for the tweeter wiring makes future door panel removal easier.
Rear panel - tweeter holes cut and mount in place:
Rear door speakers installed:
• Door panels. I cut the speaker trim down on the back of the panels and removed the center support brace on the front doors so I could locate my X-over in that location. I also drilled out the JBL nameplates (which were pretty beat up) and replaced them w/ the ‘CDT Audio’ tags I peeled off the X-over covers.
• Subwoofer enclosure. After several attempts to keep a portion of the factory box where the amp is located, I had to cut it completely off and seal up the factory box. It was the only way the PDX-5 would fit. I fabricated a mount out of ¼” mdf with sheet metal brackets that secure the aftermarket amp snugly in the stock location.
Original box:
Box after cutting/sealing/reverse mounting sub:
Amp mounted on mdf w/ brackets:
Everything snugly in place, OEM style, but with more power!:
• Wiring. Pretty standard. Ran power through the factory firewall seal (resealed it of course) down the driver side and over. RCA’s/remote/speaker wire down the passenger side and across. Imprint tuning module in the glove box. Speaker wire can be snaked through the factory door grommets with a pin file/silicone spray. On the rear doors be sure to secure the speaker wire to the factory loom which runs low inside the door (otherwise it may interfere with window operation).
Once everything is wired, fire it up! Hopefully you hear music haha.
If so, it’s time to double check everything and reassemble.
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