05-06-2015, 06:24 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffy
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I think this may be the solution to my problem.
My symptoms: steering is intermittently tight. It's usually very tight when I first start driving, until a turn or two seems to loosen it up. There's no difference between freeway and city tightness, and my ps pump seems to be doing fine so I've ruled that out. It'll randomly get tight when driving straight but a little "wiggle" will make it feel right again. I've got plenty of rust in there, so I'm thinking this might be my best bet before going for a full steering rack replace. Thoughts? Is that similar to the symptoms you were experiencing before you did this?
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so have you done it?
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06-19-2015, 11:17 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gshadow325
bumping a old thread for 2 reasons
-thanks for the part numbers and pictures!
-updated part numbers as of today!
45209-35170 called intermediate steering shaft #2 part number listed in OP is old part number that is dead and this one has been updated number and design.
bolts are also updated
90119-08560
Local dealer costs are $145 and $1.50 for each of the nuts total about $150. If you google the old part number it will take you to a bunch of old part numbers that people have New Old Stock.
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Canada blows for pricing, dealer here wants $358 for that shaft, holy!!
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06-19-2015, 11:27 AM
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#18
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Northampton County PA
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I had this problem, changed the shaft and no more issues.
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06-19-2015, 11:55 AM
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#19
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: North Bay, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super2kc
Canada blows for pricing, dealer here wants $358 for that shaft, holy!!
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What?!? They must be on sale! I paid $383 CAN plus tax for mine from the dealership in September 2013. At least I got the work done to install it at a place with a lower shop rate.
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 2011 Limited 4WD with NAV: "CDN Package" (running boards, mud guards, all-weather mats, cargo liner, block heater).
Summer: Michelin Defender LTX 245/60R20 on OEM Limited 20" rims / Winter: Toyo Observe GSi-5 265/70R17 on 2018 TRD Off-Road 17" rims.
Previous: 2003 4Runner Limited 4WD V8; 1997 Lexus LS400; 1997 Camry CE; 1988 Celica Turbo 4WD; 1982 Celica GT
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09-05-2015, 11:26 AM
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#20
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Unstuck U-joint
This was assume! I read through this post, went out to my truck and sprayed white litheum grease on the U-joint a couple of time. Went to a nearby parking lot, did a dozen or so figure eights and walla, it's like new!!
I'm planning on replacing it, but at least I can "Plan" for it now.... 
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09-13-2015, 07:13 PM
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#21
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Steering on my '03 Limited V8 just got stiff this weekend. We'll see what the dealer says tomorrow.
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Current: 2013 Land Cruiser
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09-14-2015, 10:56 AM
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#22
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The dealer says that the U-joint is toast. They want $500 to fix that. But they also say that the power steering lines are rusted and they want $1000 to replace them.
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If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Current: 2013 Land Cruiser
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09-14-2015, 04:51 PM
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#23
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Yikes. I'd climb under and get a few pics. If you pull the wheel off it is a bit easier to see what you are looking for. The splash guard on the drivers side pulls off the plastic tabs that hang it in the wheel well. Bayou should be able to get a good look from the rear side of the suspension pillar. The power steering lines run nearby, and you should be able to see if they need replacing (my guess is not). The undercarriage on my truck was pretty rusty and the power steering lines were perfect, as was the rack.
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09-14-2015, 06:35 PM
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#24
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Steering Column U-Joint
And they said the right side CV boot is torn. Also the brackets for the drivers side running board are rusted out.
I'm starting to think it may be time for a new truck. Every six months I'm dumping another couple grand into it.
My undercarriage was more than a little rusty - the frame was replaced last December.
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If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Current: 2013 Land Cruiser
Gone: 2003 4Runner V8 Limited 4WD
Last edited by M1911; 09-14-2015 at 06:38 PM.
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09-14-2015, 06:51 PM
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#25
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Cv boot might not be a huge deal, some just replace the axle rather than rebuilding the old unit (total cost 90-300 dollars depending on doing it yourself or at the shop). Rusty running board supports are no big deal. Even take the running boards off if you don't need em.
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09-14-2015, 06:54 PM
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#26
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I don't have time and space, so the dealer is doing the work. The price is quite high.
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If brute force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Current: 2013 Land Cruiser
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12-11-2015, 12:40 AM
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#27
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Old thread, but I wanted to add this to the instructions. When you are putting the new shaft in make sure you the top part of it on the outside of the exhaust or you will not be able to connect it at the top and you will need to take the bottom apart again. Fortunately I saw this before it was to late.
I bought a nice one from a salvage yard for $50 plus shipping. Just watch the mileage and/or the part of the country it comes from.
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12-20-2015, 01:17 PM
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#28
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Anybody tried replacing just the u joint itself? $14 instead of $170, if only it works. I just got under the vehicle and checked out the joint, there don't appear to be and snap rings at all. It wasn't machined in one piece in the factory of course...but how would replacement be accomplished without snap rings to remove??
Amazon.com: 4520335310 - Universal Joint / U-Joint 16X40 For Toyota - Febest: Automotive
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Last edited by jbtvt; 12-20-2015 at 01:53 PM.
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12-21-2015, 12:22 AM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbtvt
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I think I've still got my old one laying around if you want it to play with. I don't see a feasible way of replacing it tho.
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12-24-2015, 05:58 PM
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#30
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I've gotten everything off, but the bottom from the rack. Tried prying, yanking on it, WD40, can't get it to slide off. Is there a secret? Driving me nuts, and it won't curse off! LOL
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