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Old 06-29-2010, 04:36 AM
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CO_FlyFisher CO_FlyFisher is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Littleton, CO
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CO_FlyFisher CO_FlyFisher is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 431
CO_FlyFisher is on a distinguished road
Sorry for late replies. I'm out of town and have been stuck working night shift lately. (Notification e-mails still aren't working for me either)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Qyota View Post
Dude, thank you! It worked for me. I ended up with a slightly different approach, but the same result. I couldn't keep the pins aligned, so the solder would break upon reassembly. I ended up clipping off the small ends of the pins, pushing them back into the plastic housing, then putting a small dab of solder on each pin end. I then filled in the corresponding circuit board "holes" with solder. upon reassembly, the cut pin ends and the new solder "bumps" came into contact, and are held in contact by the two small screws holding the board to the plastic housing.

Works great!

Thanks again.
Ya, it is kind of a pain to get the pins lined up properly. I barely soldered them initially (so I could still move them w/o too much force), lined them up and checked fit, then soldered them the rest of the way. Just be careful not to pull the copper traces off of the circuit board!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton H View Post
the pins are not in the clock like the one shown they simply slide in and the springs make contact
Read my post a little more carefully. As has already been mentioned, the pins in mine were also mounted in the back case. They slide out from the outside in with a little bit of pushing. The springs are intended to make contact, which is the weak link in the system.


Dirt4dinner and jdmidwest - I noted the dead clock harness port in my write-up. Past clock threads have mentioned it as well. Don't feel bad; there have been more than a few ppl who've found that theirs was plugged into the wrong spot!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt4dinner View Post
This thing is killing me! I have been screwing with it for the past two hours. I have soldiered on the little posts and I have inspected it for way to much time and I just can't figure it out. It will light up when I smash the screen down into the board as hard as I can, and it will stay lite for a few seconds...then it turns off. Then I take a little screw driver and gently pry the screen up off the board and it turns back on....for a few seconds. Then I smash it again, and back and forth we go.

There are VERY few diodes or whatever they are on the board. The majority of them are actually under the screen so I can't get at them to inspect very good or soldier, but I can get my screw driver on them and they don't budge. I convinced it is actually something loose inside the screen and I can't get at that because it's sealed in glass.

What a disappointment...and a frusteration!
Have you tried re-flowing the solder on all of the connection pins for the clock screen? Just be sure not to get it too hot, just enough to melt the solder. Be especially careful if you re-flow the small smt components, as too much heat will kill those!
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'99 Limited 4WD

Upgrades: BFG AT T/A KO 265/75/16, Husky floor liners, WeatherTech window deflectors, Silverstar Ultra headlights, TaskLED Dome lights, Red & White LED maplights, LED tails & 3rd brake light, 35% tinted front windows, TrueFlow air fliter, hardwired V1, Scion T1807 HU w/ Aux input, Masterflow MF1052 in rear side storage

Mods: Deckplate/ISR, independent fog light control, rear diff breather, constant hot 12v outlets, seat-mounted LED Maglite
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