[GrantK]

When I had my new rims/tires installed today I also had them install Gorilla lug nuts and locks. These are ALL spline cut, even the locks. The shop said they only torque the locks to 50lbs so the splines won't strip out. This doesn't seem right to me. I think they should be torqued to full spec, just like the regular lug nuts.

I'm going to contact Gorilla but wondered what others think as well.

[1engineer]

Grant,
The formula for bolt Torque is simple:


T = K × D × F (short equation)

where T = torque, K = nut factor, sometimes called the friction factor, D = bolt diameter, and F = bolt tension generated during tightening.

In this formula "K" is probably the only thing that could change by using different lug nuts. It could be material, grade of material, actual strength of flats or splines, etc. You did not change studs so the nut is the determining factor. It could even be the yield strength of the nut.

While this formula above is simple, it is derived from more complex formulas and many different knowns go into the longer calculations such as thread pitch, joint type (lubricated or non-lubricated) effective seat area and on and on. Here is a link to an excellent article from machine design: A simpler way to predict bolt preload | Machine Design
on bolt preload.

I hope this helps you to understand why there COULD be a different torque spec as it depends on several factors. Now, determining if the new spec is right or not is a question only the manufacturer can answer.

[Mick1]

Post a picture of them so we can see how stout or fragile looking the spines are.

I previously had spline wheel locks and always torqued them the same as the others with no problem. The spines on mine were pretty good size.

[harper7]

Originally Posted by GrantK

When I had my new rims/tires installed today I also had them install Gorilla lug nuts and locks. These are ALL spline cut, even the locks. The shop said they only torque the locks to 50lbs so the splines won't strip out. This doesn't seem right to me. I think they should be torqued to full spec, just like the regular lug nuts.

I'm going to contact Gorilla but wondered what others think as well.

That's a good question really as the stock nuts which are not conical are torqued to 82 ft/lbs but they are only a clamping force as the hub centers.
However,the conical nuts for aftermarket wheels are clamping and centering with friction between them and the wheel when tightening so you would think the torque would need to be a little more.

That being said....lol
I have had spline cut conical nuts on mine for over 2 years torqued to 82 ft/lbs and the wheels haven't come off yet and I've had them off and on at least 20 times with no broken studs or stripped nuts.Knock on wood!

When I have seen stripped spline nuts is when they use an impact to install them.Sucks even worse when they strip the special keyed socket with half the nuts off! Hand tightening with a 4 way lug wrench is the best and then bring them up to torque in a criss cross pattern.

[GrantK]

I think I need to add a little better explanation...

As I mentioned, the shop only tightened the locking lugs to 50lbs, the regular lugs they tightened to 85lbs. All lugs are spline cut. The shop said they don't tighten the locking lugs to full torque to protect the splines from stripping.

All the lug nuts (regular and locking) are hardened steel and the only difference between regular and locking is the placement of the splines. I think the shop is wrong and that all the lugs should be torqued to the same value. I'm of the opinion that the splines won't strip (all the same material) and the different torque values could possibly cause the rims, or worse, the rotors to warp. Also, the lower torque value on the locking lugs could let them work loose and come off over time (not likely, but possible).

[1engineer]

Originally Posted by GrantK

When I had my new rims/tires installed today I also had them install Gorilla lug nuts and locks. These are ALL spline cut, even the locks. The shop said they only torque the locks to 50lbs so the splines won't strip out. This doesn't seem right to me. I think they should be torqued to full spec, just like the regular lug nuts.

I'm going to contact Gorilla but wondered what others think as well.

Sorry. I misunderstood.

[GrantK]

Originally Posted by 1engineer

Sorry. I misunderstood.

Ain't no thing. It helps to be reminded of related info when working on things so I don't F'em them up beyond repair.

[Gstick]

Not to steal your thread GrantK, but what is the thread pitch & diameter for our wheel studs (5th Gen) ? I want to buy some Gorilla locks.

[GrantK]

Originally Posted by Gstick

Not to steal your thread GrantK, but what is the thread pitch & diameter for our wheel studs (5th Gen) ? I want to buy some Gorilla locks.

Gorilla part #21631BC (12mm x 1.5, acorn style)

[Gstick]

Thanks !

[Marlin 444]

I have the gorilla locks on mine and put them on myself.

I used the lug wrench that came with my 4runner. Removed one lug nut and put a locking lugnut in its place. Nothing special.

I'm sure it isn't exactly torqued to 82lbs, but it as tight as I can get it and never had a problem with it. I check it every so often and I never had to tighten it yet.

To the OP - just make sure it is tight and you'll be fine.

[||ReT4Ribution||]

OOPS...I have all of mine set to 90...

I would think as long as your lock splines are not just two splines and super shallow, they can take a full spec torque...

check your key, if you feel there is enough meat on the key, set the locks to full spec.

[Qjake]

I would tend to agree that all the lug nuts should be torqued to the same ft lbs. The gorilla locks seem to be good quality and don't think you'd have any issues taking them up to the recommended 82 lbs.

[GrantK]

In case anyone was wondering... Gorrilla says to torque their locks and regular lugs to full spec.

[bofa]

I've had locks on most of my cars, usually the Gorilla style, although I got some different ones this last time. I always torque them to OEM spec. I've never had one strip.