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Old 05-17-2022, 12:34 PM #48586
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Almost rolled her in lockhart basin! Failure to get out and look at the line resulted in choosing the wrong approach which caused me to slide off the trail. Luckily my slider rested against this large rock saving me from rolling down
What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!-img_1385-jpg


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Old 05-17-2022, 12:55 PM #48587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottiezilla View Post
Headed to a sandblasting shop shortly for my sliders, want to change the color completely n with the amount of time/effort I’ve already put into one(not yet finished) I figure with the time/labor/supplies, I’d rather have this done already(they’ve been off for a year now…)

My question is, what kind of oil/grease/wrapping/coverage should I put on till I’m ready to paint? Basically what do our sliders come covered in from the shops that protect from rust?

Hopefully it’s not too humid/hot soon so I can prime n paint

Side ?…Last time I used self etching n rattle paint
Anyone use anything else with that? Not bedliner/lineX/Pcoat but I’ve seen expoxies somewhere in the mix

Thanks, once done this will turn into a proper”what did you do today…)
WD-40 works well, but I'd try to at least get them in primer as you'll have to clean that off down the line as well. Any metal parts I always did at least two coats of rattle can self etching primer and at least 3 coats of black. Easy touch up and holds up pretty well.
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Old 05-17-2022, 01:34 PM #48588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirWilliamGoes View Post
Almost rolled her in lockhart basin! Failure to get out and look at the line resulted in choosing the wrong approach which caused me to slide off the trail. Luckily my slider rested against this large rock saving me from rolling down
Attachment 395932


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Jesus... I bet the pucker was audible.
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Old 05-17-2022, 02:32 PM #48589
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Quote:
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How do you like it? Does it really help? It looks grey in the pic. Do you have another pic that shows the matte black better in reference to the gloss black on the hood? TIA
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I took that under an LED light in my garage, not in the sun. I’ll try to grab one tomorrow in the sun possibly, so hang tight! Hahaha
Yes, it is matte black and it works. No reflection seen so far!
Here is a better image.



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Old 05-17-2022, 06:31 PM #48590
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Here is a better image.



That's nice! Thanks
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Old 05-17-2022, 07:46 PM #48591
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took the unpaved service roads home yesterday afternoon. had a big rainstorm and the roads were all washboard with some big puddles and some looser mud/dirt. always fun to do after a big rainstorm. not a challenging drive by any means but sometimes it's the little things that can make your day that much better

also finished installing the LFD crossbars. wind faring is a must, completely silent even at 110mph (safely tested of course on a deserted highway)
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Old 05-17-2022, 08:23 PM #48592
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Originally Posted by Humble Leader View Post
took the unpaved service roads home yesterday afternoon. had a big rainstorm and the roads were all washboard with some big puddles and some looser mud/dirt. always fun to do after a big rainstorm. not a challenging drive by any means but sometimes it's the little things that can make your day that much better

also finished installing the LFD crossbars. wind faring is a must, completely silent even at 110mph (safely tested of course on a deserted highway)
I take it you're talking about the ones that use the stock Toyota rails? This is good news. We just got ours last week and waiting for the next wash before we install.

Q: Did you put anything down under the wind fairing to protect the paint? (PPF or vinyl?). I have some black vinyl and am thinking about putting a small strip under it.
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Old 05-17-2022, 09:36 PM #48593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottiezilla View Post
Headed to a sandblasting shop shortly for my sliders, want to change the color completely n with the amount of time/effort I’ve already put into one(not yet finished) I figure with the time/labor/supplies, I’d rather have this done already(they’ve been off for a year now…)

My question is, what kind of oil/grease/wrapping/coverage should I put on till I’m ready to paint? Basically what do our sliders come covered in from the shops that protect from rust?

Hopefully it’s not too humid/hot soon so I can prime n paint

Side ?…Last time I used self etching n rattle paint
Anyone use anything else with that? Not bedliner/lineX/Pcoat but I’ve seen expoxies somewhere in the mix

Thanks, once done this will turn into a proper”what did you do today…)
Is there issues with using LineX? I had thought to have the sliders I'm fixing to order be done with this instead of powder coating from the builder. We have a LineX shop in town.
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:29 PM #48594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro367 View Post
WD-40 works well, but I'd try to at least get them in primer as you'll have to clean that off down the line as well. Any metal parts I always did at least two coats of rattle can self etching primer and at least 3 coats of black. Easy touch up and holds up pretty well.
Yup yup, I was more concerned about how I was gonna store them prior to self etch n rattle
Going that route again for sure

New issue is, n totally my fault, I thought the blast would result in SHINY bare metal, not the grey primed look from the salt…I’m concerned cause I was told/read different approaches to attacking this…Do I wipe the “grey salt prime” with light dawn water, acetone n then some alcohol?
Or leave it alone n prime/paint right on top of “grey salt prime”
So I’m hoping for some feedback/answers in research before I get going

Quote:
Originally Posted by JaSC1 View Post
Is there issues with using LineX? I had thought to have the sliders I'm fixing to order be done with this instead of powder coating from the builder. We have a LineX shop in town.
I’ve ONLY used self etching primer n paint, so I can’t say
Like others have said, it’s REALLY easy to touch up
I’ve heard ups n downs to all the options out there but regardless, they will chip/rust/scratch/whatever, if used for their real purpose or not

I got them blasted cause Im changing the color completely/hassle of removing primer n paint from certain areas/time plus got a good deal
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Old Yesterday, 10:05 AM #48595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnygraphic View Post
I take it you're talking about the ones that use the stock Toyota rails? This is good news. We just got ours last week and waiting for the next wash before we install.

Q: Did you put anything down under the wind fairing to protect the paint? (PPF or vinyl?). I have some black vinyl and am thinking about putting a small strip under it.
yes the ones that use the stock toyota rails. I did not need anything under the faring. it comes with its own rubber protective strip but my faring sits easily 1/4" above the roof at the lowest point. the strip would rest on the roof if I installed it. I am not concerned about the roof flexing somehow and contacting the faring so in my case the strip was not needed (2012 model year). the strip probably helps reduce some wind noise under the faring since it will close and reduce the gap between the faring and roof. but honestly, it would be so minimal and without the strip you don't need to worry about paint wear. the faring is designed well and I had no wind noise even at very high speeds. the strip that does come with the bars does have a metal insert inside, it's not all rubber. so when friction and little dirt/sand particles get trapped in there and eventually wears the rubber down it will be metal on metal with your roof.

I actually thought about PPFing my entire roof to eliminate the need for me to wax the roof twice a year like I do with the rest of the vehicle. I thought about doing a strip under the faring to make life easier but figured I'd quote on the whole roof, which was $500 and half a day's worth of my time. so I decided to buy some griots spray best of show wax and use a swiffer wand to wax the roof when I need to and wash pole to clean under the bars if I don't want to remove the boxes and everything inside them
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Old Yesterday, 01:52 PM #48596
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Spark Plugs

Replaced Spark Plugs and Coils..
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Old Yesterday, 04:15 PM #48597
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Originally Posted by Humble Leader View Post
yes the ones that use the stock toyota rails. I did not need anything under the faring. it comes with its own rubber protective strip but my faring sits easily 1/4" above the roof at the lowest point. the strip would rest on the roof if I installed it. I am not concerned about the roof flexing somehow and contacting the faring so in my case the strip was not needed (2012 model year). the strip probably helps reduce some wind noise under the faring since it will close and reduce the gap between the faring and roof. but honestly, it would be so minimal and without the strip you don't need to worry about paint wear. the faring is designed well and I had no wind noise even at very high speeds. the strip that does come with the bars does have a metal insert inside, it's not all rubber. so when friction and little dirt/sand particles get trapped in there and eventually wears the rubber down it will be metal on metal with your roof.

I actually thought about PPFing my entire roof to eliminate the need for me to wax the roof twice a year like I do with the rest of the vehicle. I thought about doing a strip under the faring to make life easier but figured I'd quote on the whole roof, which was $500 and half a day's worth of my time. so I decided to buy some griots spray best of show wax and use a swiffer wand to wax the roof when I need to and wash pole to clean under the bars if I don't want to remove the boxes and everything inside them
Cool! Thank you for the detailed reply!
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Old Yesterday, 04:31 PM #48598
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Quote:
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Cool! Thank you for the detailed reply!
np. also the bars can go in any way but the LFD logo cutout on the faring faces driver's rear. the cross bars have that same cutout. if you like things all matchy matchy then make sure the cutouts all face the same way (driver's rear). I had to turn my bars around before tightening because I had noticed this


the bars are great, can't go wrong with them, great compromise between a full rack and regular crossbars
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Old Yesterday, 05:17 PM #48599
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np. also the bars can go in any way but the LFD logo cutout on the faring faces driver's rear. the cross bars have that same cutout. if you like things all matchy matchy then make sure the cutouts all face the same way (driver's rear). I had to turn my bars around before tightening because I had noticed this


the bars are great, can't go wrong with them, great compromise between a full rack and regular crossbars

Thanks! Haven’t noticed about the logo cutouts.

I agree about the compromise between a full rack vs OEM. I didn’t want to risk messing with the factory seals on the rails if I could avoid it. Plus, it was wallet friendly.


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