I'm not quite sure how I managed to live with the TRD Pro exhaust on my last 4R for 3 years. Just recently picked up my new '24 ORP and the stock exhaust is my favorite thing about it.

Tried figuring out why my rear lights are not working . Think it has something to do with this burnt diode.
" help be nice please "

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Rear brake pad change, swapped out the cornfed 1" spacers on the rear springs for 1.5" and finally installed the BOTCK I bought a year ago.

Just finished my 100k service, got it a little early at 98k and fresh new rubber all around 💪🏻 ready to rock for the season!

I opted not to do the transmission replacement in our 2014 and let our local mechanic handle the replacement transmission install in the 2014 4Runner. The truck is back to running good as new. Mechanic said it would take him 4 hrs, but it took him 6. Said there were 6 bolts that were a challenge, but relative to a 10 year old car with 365K miles, it was nothing.

$800 for salvage takeout transmission with 43K miles delivered to Missoula for free.

$1,085 for removal and install.

$85 for rear main engine seal, front and rear transmission seals.

$85 for transmission fluid.

By comparison, a reman Aisin 750 transmission runs $2,700.

We did good on this.

Pics 1 and 3 of the old transmission, middle pic is the replacement transmission. Finding many uses for the tractor I bought this summer.

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This was a months long proces for my 2015 SR5 (about 165,000 miles)

- This past summer, while on a 6 hour drive back home, the CEL and TRAC OFF light came on. When I was able to pull off the interstate, I unplugged the battery for about half an hour. About ten minutes down the road, the light came back on and it went into limp mode. When it was able to get into an Autozone parking lot, it was diagnosed to have a VVT Solenoid or Crankshaft Position Sensor fault, with zero help from the employee on finding the part. I was able to pull the parts out, clean them, and the faults went away. The vehicle went about 2 more hours before the CEL came on alone flashing and I experienced a misfire. The vehicle was towed back to my house, where it now showed that it was a camshaft position overretarded, with a new fault for O2 sensor heater circuit.

- I changed out every VVT, Crankshaft position sensor, and sparkplugs/coils.

- About a month ago, the CEL and TRAC OFF lights came back on for P0057 and P0161 (B2S2 O2 heater circuit). It showed both of those codes as "permenant" and P0161 as "stored" and "pending." I had previously put in a Bosch O2 sensor, so I put in a new Denso sensor. The CEL came back on...

-Unsure if I just received a bad O2 sensor, I tried another Denso sensor, and the light came back on, with all the codes again showing as above.

- I inspected wiring for any chaffing, the A/F fuse, the Integrated Relay for resistance based on the "ALLDATA" troubleshooting guides. Everything was good.

-Here is where I may have gotten "fleeced" by a bad dealership. I brought the vehicle to the Toyota Dealership for a diagnostic ($175), and to hopefully pinpoint the issue. They said it was an O2 sensor issue and recommended I put in the OEM part... Which was already in. They refused to work on the vehicle until I put in a "Toyota" part from their service department. Not sure why I did it, but I fancied their request and purchased the sensor ($200) that said "Denso" on the part. To not pay $600 for installation, I did it myself in about 15 minutes. The CEL came back on as expected.

- I brought it back to Toyota, where they further troubleshooted it down to the Integrated Relay. I opted to have that replaced ($350) because the technician claimed that they tested it to be bad, and there wasn't really a labor charge for installation. Once they called and said that the part was replaced, the vehicle was test ran, and it was "running great," I went and picked up the vehicle. About a mile down the road, the CEL came back on. I checked the trip meter, and the vehicle had only been driven 2 miles since the battery was re-installed after the relay replacement. No way they ran a full drive cycle and checked for any codes.

- This time, I was obviously not happy, because I was $725 into "troubleshooting" at the dealership and it seems like they didn't do any actual troubleshooting, and lied about the condition of the vehicle. They finally did resistance checks on wiring, which checked to be okay and left the ECM as the only possible issue in the circuit. The quote for this was $1400, and a call to another trusted mechanic in town was $2000.

- With a lack of trust for the mechanic, and already being deep into this issue, I started looking at options for me to do this myself. I figured that if I bought a used ECM with a warranty, if it didn't work I could return it and buy the more expensive option. LKQ had a used one from a similar model for $165. I couldn't find any information on Gen 5 vehicles having similar issues, but a little bit on Gen 4, and other Toyota models. From what I read, syncing the immobilizer was the only real "required" thing to do, and VIN matching may only be necessary for Emissions testing, or possibly selling.

- I recieved the ECM, and begun my work. Unplug the battery, first! For removing the glovebox to access the ECM, I followed this video which is required to access the ECM. Once the trim and glovebox were removed, the ECM was unplugged, and a bolt on the top/nut on the bottom were removed to take it out. There was another item on that bracket, that was just removed via a clip and slid right off.

- You have to move the metal brackets from the old ECM to the new one. This was a few phillips head screws, and easy. Just install it back in, and plug in the connectors/battery.

- Don't put all the trim back together until after you sync the immobilizer in case there was an issue... You wouldn't want to have to take everything back apart.

- The immobilizer sync isn't hard, I just followed this video for the steps. It takes about half an hour for this process.

- After everything was done, the vehicle started back up, and ran for about half an hour without an issue. While it was running, I reinstalled all of the trim and glovebox.

It has ran great since, including two trips of about 1.5 hours and normal daily drives. Now the next steps aren't completely necessary, but I just did it because I wanted to ensure there weren't any issues if I were to sell it in the future/move somewhere that requires emissions testing.

- I learned that diagnostic tools that are capable of changing the VIN need the "Techstream" software, or there are some OBD tools that can do it.. most are very expensive. I was able to find this tool on Amazon for about $150 on sale I have heard you can buy a cable that can connect to a computer with some downloaded software as well, but this was easier for me. I confirmed with the seller that it was capable of re-writing the VIN. If it didn't work, I would just return it.

- I got the diagnostic tool in, and was able to go through menus to re-write the VIN. There aren't any real instructions on how to, I just had to go through menus until I found the option. I was able to match the VIN written in the ECM to the vehicle. Again, this is not required, and did not affect the vehicle performance. Someone can comment and maybe find a cheaper or easier option.

In conclusion, I just wanted to write all of this because I couldn't find any information regarding Gen 5s with this issue. I hope it helps others with similar cases to find cheaper options for an ECM replacement than what dealerships/mechanics charge. After quotes of $1400 and $2000 for new ECMs, I was able to find an ECM for $160 and a diagnostic tool for $150 (again, not necessary). The entire replacement process takes about 2 hours on the conservative side. This saved me over $1000.

interesting post - thanks. I read all of it. I wonder at what point do you know it's the ECU or do you have to go through all the previous troubleshootings to get to that point. maybe the (unrelated?) codes are a clue, replacing O2 sensor easy enough. I find the OEM parts aren't usually the issue, it's paying the labour hourly rate to do some of this stuff or do more advances troubleshooting with the right tools

I think it was a result of troubleshooting the DTC given. It was essentially O2 Sensor > Fuse and Relay > Wiring > ECM. Maybe the issues this past summer are unrelated, but no real way to tell. There just wasn’t much info on Gen 5 ECM replacement, so I figured this would help people save money if they are able to. Although I am more mechanically inclined from my days fixing airplanes in the military, this really isn’t that difficult of a process.

Added some Backwoods deck panels to my roof rack.

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After experiencing the Entune 3.0 with CarPlay and larger screen in her 2023 ORP, my wife asked for CarPlay and bigger screen in her 2014. I went the retrofit route with the Entune 3.0 and retrofit harness by autoharnesshouse.com. Took a bit to figure out, but I got it there and it's working. One issue left, the salvage goons cut the navigation cord thinking it attached to the harness of the salvage vehicle. It does not. It simply jumps from the back of the navigation box to the rest of the head unit. New cord on order and it's $73.

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hi folks - question for all of you that have arb under the hood that live in winter climates

I had an arb single, mounted under hood near passenger firewall with the LFD stainless steel bracket (excellent bracket btw). after not even two years I noticed my compressor sounded louder, vibrated a bit and didn't seem to work as good as I remember. Took it off and found that the relay pins were all corroded and there was some melted plastic. took the power connector to the compressor out and found corroded leads as well. any steel parts of that compressor (the black mounting base attached to the compressor) was so badly corroding the paint was all flaked off exposing rusty metal. screws, rusted

with winter here almost 5 months of the year I drive through a lot of salt spray on the highway which is where I do most of my driving. I suspect this was the issue - moisture getting into the connectors. arb connectors are not moisture proof, too bad, I don't think the compressor is either. I do miss on board air it was convenient and found arb dual at a good price. but fool me once... the arb dual will also not be moisture proof since it's basically two singles, even if the relay is housed under that cover. arb says IP55 protection on their website, which is only limited dust/moisture ingress, but arb claims dust proof which I don't believe. I suspect another arb compressor will suffer the same fate as my single if I did install one

any of you with arb compressors in winter climates that have them mounted in the engine bay, how have they held up? I separately asked Viair about their hardmount options and spoke to a sales rep. told him my situation with arb and asked how they suggest to hardmount. he basically told me not to mount it in the engine bay if you live in a winter climate - the salt spray and moisture would ruin the compressor far sooner than it would naturally die out. so I've been hauling around my viair 400 Auto compressor which is a beast, but just something else that takes up valuable space

This seems to be the best option for your particular scenario. Even regular car components exposed to the road salts that are supposed to be exposed, don't fare well in salt environments.

I keep a Viair 88p(?) in my trunk at all times. Yeah, it sucks that it takes up space, but having a vital tool that takes up cargo space that works, is better than a vital tool that is tucked away neatly, but doesn't work.

Put my OVS awning back up after it ripped the bolts out during a middle of the night gust when I was drunk.

Any experiences with a Dobinson lift. Apparently these kits are used a lot in Australia. Thanks

Back at work now, but had a fun, solo 2wk trip out West. Made lots of stops and saw a Formula 1 race in Vegas. Decided it's time to build a drawer system, as there was lots of chaos in the cargo area with all the gear.

Went to Caprock Canyons and Palo Duro Canyon in TX; Roswell, Bottomless Lakes State Park, and Carlsbad Caverns in NM; Petrified Forest, Meteor Impact Site, and Grand Canyon in AZ; then Hoover Dam, Lake Mead, and Valley of Fire State Park in NV.